Thanks for the picture. But the pictures of diozz are realy helpfull too.
I think the head must be 1-2mm higher or deeper. The Optic can be held over the mcpcb by laying on the head. The legs of the optic will protect again rotating the optic if the spacing is set by the deeper space in the head.
Djozz, i would have liked to see you try and undo mine by hand. I only just managed using jubilee clips as levers. that’s not an exaggeration either!
Well earlier I reflowed my 2 decent working emitters onto the board and fitted the new optic. screwed all the way in with little resistance, doesn’t feel like much pressure on the domes… Working great… No rattle or anything.
Just have to wait to get my new nichias now and ill get it up and running.
You are welcome.
Picture shows an example of proper fitment, of a well designed optic already in use without issues. Shown as possible design refinement for future and or replacements heads. The Carclo optic is capable of greater pressures from the thicker legs providing support on top of the MCPCB.
Here are the Noctigon and Carclo triple parts test fit inside the head. Stupid easy. Fits snug and bezel is tightly seated.
Hmmm, my S41 also is showing some gunk/blue stuff on one emitter. Not as bad as other stuff in this thread, but output of the led IS reduced. (quite the same as djozz’s light) Would I be able to get a new head aswell?
So I did a turbo test with my S41S Nichia and a KeepPower IMR 18350. It stepped down after 30-40s (didn’t time it) and then I left it on for a few minutes in the stepped down mode on a table. The head after those few minutes was insanely hot (thought I burned my fingers but fortunately no bubbles have formed) and the rear of the tube was also too hot to hold.
I didn’t have anything to measure the surface temperature with so of course now I’m wondering if the battery exceeded the max safe temp (60°C) or not. After letting the S41S cool down and turning it on again I do not notice any issues with the tint. So it looks like I got a good unit (well, except for a scratch I noticed under the lens).
Btw, I prefer Manker’s S41 tube knurling. The knurling on the S41S tube is much more aggressive (the peaks are not flattened like on the S41 tube).
@lumiere The sharpness is caused by the four edges of each “pyramid”. I used 0000 steel wool, to dull them with fantastic results. I actually prefer the more aggressive knurling better now.
I’m gonna hit the hardware store this evening to tackle the bezel. Suppose that it’ll come off later… I’d like to get some stuff from my local supplier, can I get some suggestions from the experts?
Are you all aware that the driver of the new models has a bug compared to the original Astrolux/Manker S41 ?
If you use the new lights with the 18650 extension tube and a HIGH DRAIN battery like the Samsung 30Q and switch to turbo the light will do a step down after 40 seconds to MOONLIGHT immediately instead of high… if you use 16350 or protected 18650 OR keep the head cooled under water with the high drain battery inserted the step down is to high as expected. My original Astrolux S41 Nichia does not do this.
So the new, mysterious manufacturer screwed up twice - wrong optics and faulty driver.
I was not being very serious
More probably I am the exception, I use one or two lights all the time, a couple more occasionally, the rest is hobby. It is not that here in Amsterdam I need a light very often. This S41S is too heavy for me to carry around so it fits in the hobby collection. Which does not imply that I don’t want it to be perfect, I would be annoyed about the stepdown to moon if I would use it with 18650 tube, but I keep it 18350 only.
I hope that the new designed head has better threading in the copper, I tried to unscrew the driver retaining ring and I could not get it out, it got stuck halfway, no chance getting it further out, even getting it back was a pain. Silicon grease did not help, neither did brute force…