The problem you describe is something other than what everyone here is talking about. What you say about this light is true, it can not be run on full throttle for indefinite periods of time. For that matter, neither can the cars we drive.
Perhaps a licence should be required to operate this light 
And BTW, just because the cars we drive can’t, doesn’t mean they are poorly designed.
It’s nice to have that extra power when it’s needed!
All of this makes me want one more than ever!
This light can not run forever on max, but on a 18350 cell it can run a while if the optic is mounted well. And now that I have re-build the head I have noticed another thing that happens a lot and which is ok for a mildly driven light but not for this one: the ledboard was not flush with the shelf because upon making the screwholes, they did not remove the raised edge that is generated by the tapping process. I cut that edge off and I reckon that I can run it 10 to 15 degrees hotter now (wild guess), so an extra 10 seconds on turbo :party:
Save the receipt so I can send it back… I want the Hot Rod. 
Yes you are right. In general, all the problems they ran into would not have been so much a problem with lower performing lights. They just didn’t know. It should be standard practice to chamfer a threaded hole. In fact in very high torque situations such as an engine block the threads can actually pull up when tightened.
A chamfered threaded hole.
Before & after, driver side had a sharp edge too.
Yep, it all boils down to you can’t cut corners in high performing lights.
And I have never received a Decked block back from a machinist that had the holes Re-Chamfered. Of all people they should know better. But if chamfering the head bolt holes was disclosed as an additional option I would decline and still do it myself as I always have.
I also go one step further. Use a sharpie on the back of MCPCB and put in the head, twist it 1/2 turn or more. Look at the back to see the contact patch, where the sharpies was scraped off. You would be surprised how little the patch is on most. I have used 800 grit Garnet lapping compound to seat all my high output MCPCB and copper spacers before soldering them in. I also apply pressure as they cool to reduce the amount of solder and flux between. OCD?, yup, I am down with OCD.
There are some good points being raised here, although regarding the direct drive nature of this light we all knew that from the beginning. Being members of BLF we should know what the downsides are of a DD quad in something this small. However, being flashaholics we know the potential risks 
The entire point of this light was to get the biggest bang for buck lumen ratio all in a sexy package and we got just that!
Now the blue LED epidemic is something slightly different. True the DD nature only exacerbated this problem however it is first and foremost a design error. You don’t hear of other people frying their triple builds that easily so neither should it happen here. Hopefully with the redesign that is rectified. I understand the want for a lesser powered 1.4A version for gifting, although I doubt BG would do that, honestly it’s not that hard to just swap the driver if one so desired
Does the software have the various output/group settings in the setup software that has a Muggle mode?
Muggle was only supposed to be like 50-60% on high and just a few levels.
Or is that the other BLF driver I am thinking of?
Pretty sure the muggle mode is only available on the newer Attiny-25 X5/X6 drivers, someone may correct me on that.
Has/can anyone put the heat treated 18650 tube on the S41 and post a pic? I can’t recall if the new tube will fit the S41 or not, but I would assume it would.
A pic of the regular stainless 18650 tube on the S41 would be greatly appreciated as well.
As an update for anyone who has received their s41 (mine’s the coloured S41S, with XP-G3, glued head) to find that after minimal use; they’ve got one emitter beginning to fail (mine has a dark spot, reduced output, and a blue ring in the beam) - I tried all three methods of contacting BG for support.
This thread has a suggestion in post #1 - email their CS team. It’s also got a form to fill in, and the BG site has a support option. I used all three, and in just 24 hours; they’ve advised they’re sending me a new latest revision head. Not sure exactly which method worked; but one of them did the job.
I’ll post an update when the new head arrives (typically 3-4 weeks to Aus).
For the xp-g3 variant does anyone know what tint and bin number they are using?
All the S41(S) lights lego perfectly. Manker ones and the new ones too.
Updated versions of S41S have been relisted.
Will there be spare heads (at a discount) available to order for us with not yet broken lights?
Fantastic.
I was also curious how it looked with the black-copper-stainless/heat treated stainless-black, but I think I can get a good idea of how it will look with some picture editing.
Thanks Freeme,
Saw the email notification for it a few hours ago.
For the xp-g3 variant do you know what tint and bin number they are using?
It can be done. BG will create another a separate S41S thread for S41S review request and GAW soon! 