’Twas discussed, ad nauseam, fusible traces, SMD fuses, etc, but too complicated to introduce into this design, from scratch. Complexity and cost, for something that hopefully may never happen to most. And bearing in mind selling price. Fusible springs (intentional or otherwise) will probably do the job well enough. If you beef them up, you take the responsibility to operate the torch safely.
Has anyone considered that the resistance of the springs comes from the gaps, that if the springs were compressed more OR the gap filled, there would be no gain from bypassing.
How about simply feeding braid onto the spiral of the springs so that when compressed there is a crushed braid under the battery, no need even to solder? Viable?
Thanks for the tip Etex, I just purchased some on Ebay, it looks way better than the soldering braid, will keep it for future projects… :+1:
Very neat. Good use of de-solder braid (I think that’s what you used ?) Prettier than my usual efforts.
AlexGT:
I don’t understand and can’t tell from the picture what you mean. Did you drill and tap holes in the battery tube?
VWPieces:
I’m hoping someone will sell off kits with quality right screws to me, actually. As I don’t know for sure what I’d buy by the hundred.
Too much of anything becomes a burden for one’s survivors, after enough decades of accumulating stuff. My estate sale will make hardware junkies happy.
I can't follow the copper braid mod either - don't understand where the screws are. My method is not dependent on the screw as well. Literally about 1 mm, maybe, is used on the PCB. The ring around the screw hole is soldered so it sits above the solder mask, making contact to the bare aluminum of the battery tube.
He made round opening in the braid and put it between body and the board and then screw finished the job by going thru the board and the braid
Ahh, ok - similar to my mod then - going direct to the screw hole. Not a fan of copper braid though.
Exactly that! I might open the tailcap again just to take pics… :weary:
He sandwiched the braid between the alum battery tube, and the PCB, with a hole lined up in the braid for the screws to clamp it down directly.
Edit: whoops, to slow.
and you made the tail pcb into a flower, yeah we need to see more pics 
Here are the pics…
Here you can barely see the braid under the PCB
Pic of the other side…
It is the right stuff for this kind of application. Just as it is for e.g. grounding straps on cars, and aeroplanes, that have to survive lots of movement and vibration, with massive current, where ordinary wire wouldn’t last ten minutes.
I like it and use it.
Nice trick with the braids.
That’s efficiently cutting corners! :+1:
Edit: just ordered 1m of 6mm copper braided wire from EB for just over $1
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-15-22mm-1M-3-3ft-Pure-Copper-Braid-Cable-Bare-Copper-Braid-Wire-Ground-Lead-/142458654377?var=441459281054&hash=item212b328ea9:m:m5k4VYQSx8m5WwikUDbnjJQ
I've had them broken, come loose - when you do enough lights that get sent out all around the world, you have to consider these things and learn quick. Soldering is tricky - it creeps up the braid. In this type of use, I don't see much flexing there. Certainly the PCB is raised by the thickness - might not be much though. Only concern I see in this usage is coming loose from the top of the spring, but even so, if flopping around can't do any harm I suppose. I used to use braid as the only way of doing bypasses, but after several failures, gave up on it, as, I thought, many others did. There's also a good reason why bare exposed copper isn't used much. Silver coated multi-stranded copper is quite reliable.
Also not a fan of the copper braid (Solder Wick) in just the spring bypass. The short length and 2 close by solder points, along with hardening flux usually makes a single or small flex point subject to breaking there.
I guess there s benefit in using copper braid opposed to solder wick, no flux to harden except the amount you apply, if any. Also the solder is less likely to wick down stream as fast or as bad. Tops of AlexGT springs look good in that aspect with minimal wicking. Going to the screw as he did is the shortest and most direct contact possible to the housing.
I would run it that way, no worries.
The way I try to keep the solder from creeping up the braid is by covering most of it with pliers that absorb the heat and prevent the solder from going up the only thing exposed is the piece of braid that is being soldered. Hope it made sense…
Like this…
I am currently looking for a silicone wand diffuser that can be attached to the head for use as a lantern like the klarus silicone diffuser that fits perfect for the Manker U11
Hace you seen something that fits?
Something like this…
Alex do a google for “white Squeeze lotion Bottle”
Lots of results for all sizes and opaqueness
Cheers David
I was thinking about doing that once I finally get mine. Anyway you can post a video of yours?