Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

If I remember the discussion many 1000s of posts ago… The springs act as a sort of fuse. Bypassing them also bypasses that safety.

I wouldn’t mind having an AR coating on my lens. It means a few more % output out the front. Probably would never notice it unless one was pushing the light to it’s limits and had something to compare it to, but still it’s all about light out the front that these were built.

Just as an fyi, I actually did accidentally insert one cell correctly, and one upside down, running only 2 cells for testing. so tightening up the tube, nothing came on, then I saw a stream of smoke rising -- quickly disengaged the threaded body from the head. So the only damage was both springs were shrunk down and the coatings burned off, so I can confirm the springs will act as a fuse, as we've been saying all along. When you bypass the springs, the short will attack the next highest resistance path in the circuit, so not sure what that might be. My method of bypass still uses a small length of tracing on the tail PCB, but if you use braid going directly to the screws, then there is no PCB traces in the circuit. The PCB traces I would think would be the next weak point, but I'm not sure. I've seen burnt up traces from a direct short before.

I better be careful avoid avoiding shorts, then, unless I want to make a pipebomb one of these days.

When you say “With all the tweaks”, which ones are you referring to?

Thanks Tom.

+1

Havent followed this thread closely either. So just like to know.

I got 7150 after bypass.Mine was second batch i got around 5600 before bypass.

Oh boy - this is a topic really for the Q8 modding thread where I detailed it all. The first 500 batch needs more tweaking than the second batch.

This is how I do the bypasses: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/46241/475

I must make it clear these were needed for first 500 batch, not so much for 2nd batch, but I'd still do a bunch of things for batch #2 Q8's. This is what I did on first 500:

  • 20 AWG bypasses as shown in link above
  • tin the contact rings around the screws where PCB contact the battery housing
  • clean/sand the shelves on the battery housing to the tinned rings make good contact, use light amount of NO-OX-ID on that contact surface
  • drill out driver screw holes to 1/8", replace screws, remove burrs on screw holes on the head where driver screws go on
  • sand smooth the edge of the battery tube where it makes contact to the driver ground ring - removed burrs, sand to 2000 GRIT, light NO-OX-ID

These are the ones I did initially to get to 7,000 lumens, and was all about the battery tube. Later mods got into the driver and LED board.

Here's more:

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/46241/536

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/46241/383

Just about every mod I learn something, and do a little more, so some of the above posts are outdated in that I'll do more tweaks now.

thanks for all the answers, much appreciated!

Now i dont think ill do the spring bypass JUST IN CASE some of my fellow house members attempts to put batteries in it.
The amount of lumens it will add, wont be worth risking the light (imo).

If i would know im the only one touching the Q*, then i probably would.

From here-on-out, the Q8 is going to be fine the way it comes, stock :slight_smile:

Keeping mine stock too, plenty bright :smiley:

IF you mod it, or for just general safety, remember, do not tighten the battery tube so tight, that you can’t break it loose in less than a heart beat……to break contact if need be… :wink:

I plan to leave mine stock for much the same reasons. The cells will last longer as well.

On that note… I’ve been using mine mostly on moonlight mode and when I use it outside staying just below 2 flashes of the switch LEDs. When I started this the light told me I had 4 volts. It’s still at 4 volts 1.5 weeks later. My point is that I like the efficiency of this light. It’s a very nice blend of efficiency and light blaster when that’s required. Very nice light.

> black rubber bands

You can cut slices out of old bicycle inner tubes of varying diameters.
The fat tires on kids’ tricycles have extra large inner tubes.

Can’t see the Pic

You have to leave a space after the picture code and before the end qoute. This can be annoying when quoted a picture.

Can you see it now?

On a recent trip to Florida to clean up after the hurricane, I had an interesting experience with my Q8. They ended up having to check my carry-on bag which contained my Q8. The batteries were inserted, but I unscrewed the battery tube and used a bike inner tube “rubber band” to make sure that the mechanical lock-out was maintained. TSA went through my bag and checked out my Q8. When I opened my bag in Florida my Q8 was turned on! Luckily it was on a low enough level that heat was not an issue. It’s funny how my efforts to keep my light from turning on during the flight were foiled by the Transportation SAFETY Administration.

mine seems to have an AR coating as well :)

Thank you Jason. I made that mistake earlier, as shown to me in my preview of the message. I changed it quick, and then could see it. I also see it in my original comment.
Odd.

I also see it in Streamer’s comment.

Hank! :smiley:

I would very much like to see some before/after pics for this, if you can. It’s my favorite emitter. The only thing holding me back a little is there’s likely to be a large lumens drop.

I emmulated that with a 1st batch Q8 vs Noctigon Meteor M43, at a couple of low brightness levels for color comparison. Night shots vs daylight.