I hope you have fun here, viasat!
Thanks for your answer!
I was hoping a more simple solution ,maybe buying a few replacements from aliexpress.
Nope ,no internet provider ,the username it’s from an satellite chanel package https://en.kingofsat.net/pack-viasat.php .
Best Regards!
You might be able to buy them from AliExpress, but I wouldn't count on Boruit selling them.
Once you know the size (in millimeters) that you need, you can search any online shop for o-rings of that size.
That ‘O’ ring is Buna Nitrile and can be spliced with Cyano-Acrylic (CA) glue. The CA melts into the neoprene and can be as good as the original – not used as elastic but a seal. When gluing be quick and precise, there isn’t any time to move the ends into place. Any excess I remove with a very sharp X-acto knife, sometimes I use a razor blade as more precise.
There is an American supplier of all sorts of ‘O’ rings The O Ring Store – if shipping is reasonable.
I ordered from this store just one time a few years ago…all went well. They seem like they have just about anything.
https://yongxu.aliexpress.com/store/4041066
And the usual LHT store has some: Group - Shop Cheap Group from China Group Suppliers at LHT Flashlight Store on Aliexpress.com
Since im not big fan off Anduril ’s smooth ramping and linear stepping mode, compiled new UI similar to Olight Baton and more balanced for headlamp output. Now testing with buck-boost TPS63020 driver…
For perfection, as you can notice, lowest mode can be dimmer and it have some lite PWM visible on camera only. But i have long winter ahead for improvements. ;))
Very nice work, out of all of my headlamps this is the house favorite even with stock ui
I’m a big fan of the Anduril modes. Olight UI can be pretty good, but only if the mode spacing is perfect. What I like about Anduril is you can pick your # of modes yourself, and where they start and end, and imo the spacing always ends up perfect.
Yes, its all about spacing. At least in Anduril 1 stepped mode spacing is linear. It dividing steps for ramp length equally. But for headlamp (and not only) is more important to have modes in low range … like 4 modes from 0.5ma to 500ma. and hi at 1000ma. And of course separated turbo like 2-3amps for short time or as long as possible.
Gonna be rough to get decent current to the LEDs with 24 gauge required to fit the grooves in the tube
Where is R4?
Something isn’t right here:
Someone went back and edited their post. Saw this a few times around the forum and it took me a minute to figure it out. 
Well that explains it. Didn’t know that’s what happens when you update a post.
I’ll try it myself above. I’ll change “ain’t” to “isn’t” to my post above.
Yep, that’s what happened. Good to know.
My bad! :person_facepalming:
Fixed R4. Its resistor for AUX led. 120R is very bright , you can use higher value like 4.7K. . Link updated.
Would the time stamp be that of the server location (Toronto I presume)?
I don’t think there is a new notification after an edit though.
It can get confusing if someone omits to disclose their edits.
Is there any way to re-flash the stock driver of the d10? Are there any available firmware out there?
The time should be your time zone assuming you set it up in your user profile.
You won’t get new notifications after an edit. If you click the subscriptions button (on the left) you will see all your subscribed threads and it will show if there are any new posts. New includes edits. Clicking on the number should take you to the new ones, but if it’s an edit it might not. You’d have to scroll through the dates to find the new one.