Boruit D10 / EHL0628
So I’ve come across this well-liked budget headlamp which I believe to be much better than the well-liked cheap Boruit RJ-02. The only review I am aware of posted on the web is a Russion review found here (translated via Google Translate). I decided this headlamp deserves its own thread, so here are some pics and a quick review. Doing some investigating I came to the conclusion this light is model #EHL0628 (EDIT - more widely known now as the D10), as shown in this listing. The light will most likely not come up by searching this model number. It can be found all overy Ebay or AliExpress by searching “Boruit XM-L2 Headlamp” and weeding through the listings, or I believe this is the link I bought from.
Functionality: The light uses a momentary button. Quick press turns on in a medium mode, another quick press changes to high, another quick press turns off. Pausing at medium (longer than about 1 second) and then quick pressing turns it off. Quick double-press from anywhere, a mode level or even off turns on a medium strobe. A quick press returns to the mode the light was in prior to strobe (a mode level or off). Press-n-hold from off does nothing. Press-n-hold from strobe does nothing. Press-n-hold from a mode level triggers a quasi-ramping of 5 output levels starting from whichever mode level you were at (medium or high) and proceeds downward to low then back to high and downward again until you let go. Low is low, not moonlight. (I’ll measure output in my sphere at some point.) The light fit all of my cells from unprotected flat-top laptop pulls to protected button tops (note: I don’t have any extremely long protected cells). There are springs at both the positive and negative ends. The light can be locked out with a twist of the end cap.
Tint: is a very crisp cool white. It actually doesn’t bother me in use. A 3C side by side with it looks yellow in comparison. The Zanflare F1 cool white even looks warmer compared to this (it does look awfully yellow on a white wall to me). Sounds terribly high K, but like I said, it doesn’t bother me (and my favorite tint is a 5B1 around 4,000 to 4,200K). Here is a pic showing this headlamp in between an XM-L2 3C (left) and the Zanflare F1 in cool white (right):
Heat: I left it on in high mode for about 5 to 6 minutes and the body barely got warm. I expected more heat. The LED on a 20mm board is mounted to the body (as far as I can tell, not a pill or a “lip”). The LED must have thermal glue behind it as the star will not budge at all. I don’t want to break it yet, but plan to remove that star soon. (Thinking to put a Nichia 219C in this light.) It’s a fake XM-L2, the one with the “spots” as seen here:
USB: To access the micro USB port you unthread one of the “caps” which acts as an access cover to the port and charge indicator LED. The indicator is green at all times except while charging when it is red. The light actually operates from a USB power source without a battery installed (doesn’t appear to reach highest output, but that could be due to my 1.0A AC adapter or USB cord I suppose). According to other’s reports on the driver, it has a reputable charge controller. (I didn’t get the driver out as I didn’t want to break it.) In testing, my cell reached exactly 4.20v and there was no charge current measured once the indicator turned green. Currents observed during charging were as follows:
Cell Voltage Current
Unplugging and replugging in USB triggers red charge light for just a second or two and then green.
Beam Pattern: To me the light has a very good headlight beam pattern right out of the package as-is. It’s very floody with a hotspot that’s not too intense and blends nicely into the spill. Spill is quite wide. (I’m curious to try a 60º optic in it for comparison.) It has an OP reflector. Reading other’s comments this light should accept the cheap widely available 21mm optics (like from LEDDNA). At 10 feet back from a white wall, I measured the hotspot (again, not a sharp transition from hotspot to spill, so hard to really nail down) at 2 1/2 feet and total spill at 16 feet.
The light body is a very very light aluminum. This could be a positive aspect considering it is a headlamp, but it does feel cheap due to it. General fit and finish is very good for this price level. Threads are decent and much better than many cheap lights. They are shallow square threads and very very course threaded (caps spin on and off very quickly). O-rings are everywhere they are needed (though dry) and I expect the light to be very watertight.
Tailcap currents on fully charged 4.20v cell (an old, but good protected Trustfire 2400):
Basic 2 Modes:
5 Step Quasi-Ramping:
Level 5: 1.87A
Level 4: 0.84A
Level 3: 0.40A
Level 2: 0.13A
Level 1: 0.05A
Approximate Lumen Outputs on a fully charged cell:
Level: 1 Start: 17 30secs: 17
Level: 2 58 58
Level: 3 149 148
Level: 4 293 290
Level: 5 573 547
Other notes: The lens is glass. The end cap at the driver end (at the power button) is reverse threaded. Emitters wires appear to be very short, so be cautious when desoldering and swapping in a new emitter. The headband while missing the 3rd overhead strap works nicely and I don’t notice the need for the 3rd strap. The light tilts in the pastic mount and rubs against a ridge to hold its angle. I expect with careful use it will last for quite awhile.
Low Voltage Protection:
According to my testing (and trying to pull the cell to measure voltage quickly) it seems to trigger 3 slow flashes at 3.00v but keeps running at regular ouput (no stepdown) and I don’t believe it flashes again - just shuts down when it reaches about 2.70v. That shut-off level might be a little low for some cells.