Nothing will explode but you could over discharge it (by your fault or if it accidentally turn on while in flashlight: lets say in backpack where you don’t see it, or even faulty charger - it can also over discharge cell) or you could overcharge it (charger failure - my charger charged cell to more than 5V once and it did not explode).
So precaution measures for unprotected cell are:
- If you’ll put it in a backpack(or similar situations without your control) than lock off tailcap switch(only if flashlight have anodized threads) or remove 18650 cell completely for piece of mind.
- If your charger charges longer than usual or indication light starts blinking or if it does not work at all just toss it in a trash cause it will “eat” your precious cells
- When you use it in flashlight lets say in driver without over discharge protection. Put it on high or turbo mode and if it is visually much lower than it should be than stop using that cell and swap to fresh one.
They are much better than protected cells imho cause they have 2 mini electronic pcb less to fail
I took with PCB because I read that they are safer, I have about 5-7 panasonic pcb (liitokala) 3400mah, all works, I have for more than a year. But the new MF04 does not work as being too long (67-69mm), and I need unprotected batteries because they are 65mm (perfect for MF04)
Seriously? There are better ways to check out if a charger is working properly. Just after acquiring any given charger there are easy ways to test its maximum charging voltage like testing it no-load while powered on or just letting it raise a small and/or old cell to max voltage while watching.
If the seller uses the nomenclature NCR18650B or INR18650-30Q (for instance) then I believe PayPal will still help you, espcially if the word “Genuine” is in there. They did for me however they messaged “Due to the uncommon nature of the complaint, PayPal has chosen to find on your behalf and refund your purchase. The seller will not be charged for this claim”.
I believe the seller *should be charged for selling fakes* although I am glad to be reimbursed without trying to get the cells back to China for return (not feasible). All this the sellers know and exploit.
Bottom line, I have had only one batch of fakes from Gearbest or Banggood. It was an order of NCR18650PF from Gearbest. GB refunded $10 of my $44 order which I disagreed with but I could acccept that or send them back.
I will skeptically now buy from GB or Banggood but in most cases I will buy from Illumn or Liionwholesale here for a little more per cell and keep my sanity.
I believe the more people take the chance for a good deal on Aliexpress and others, the more it fuels the counterfeit market.
I am done with Aliexpress forever.
Order arrived after 2 weeks, the tracking never went live though, can’t complain since it was fast.
Bottom pcb makes it quite tall, but it still fits in an S2+
Cells were tested and all were within spec.
Cut off voltage was about 2.4v, I ran one down and tested voltage every 30 minutes until the protection tripped and the multimeter read 0v.
Protection reset upon placing in charger. Ncr18650b spec is down to 2.5v so its a last ditch protection, best to stick to recharging based on the s2+’s warning at 3v.
Still waiting out my paypal dispute with 192led’s fraud.
I wouldn't worry about the low protection cut-off, that is really a no issue. So much is said regarding this over discharging thing but that is all baseless hearsay. Go find me a source with actual testing evidence in this respect. The high voltage accelerated aging, nonetheless, is a known verified thing.
So you went PayPal dispute with 192led without even waiting for any sort of possible delivery period, did the seller said anything?
I ordered a couple Lii-100 chargers from 192led a month ago or so. I was to at least wait 2+ months. I say this because in eBay, for example, super cheap items ship with super cheap shipping and those orders are generally set aside during Xmas time due to the much increased postal traffic and plenty of priority shipments.
I just go by the spec sheet. For example, the Samsung 30Q says not to recharge a cell if it has dropped below 1.0v. Between 1v and 3v, charge slowly at first. Above 3v, go wild! (Okay, actually it’s max charge of 4A, with 1.5A recommended.)
So, yeah, a protection circuit that kicks in at 2.5v is more than okay.
Ah well 192led is well past the point of proven dubious, their live chat doesn’t even work. The search result is deprioritized on google, and the store ratings are likely fake. Delivery period is already past a month, never mind the other reports of fraud.
The low voltage protection isn’t for me, but for others I gave flashlights to. You have to ignore the convoy low voltage blink for hours before its a problem, but I guess it will save you from accidental activation inside a bag.
Funny thing about the liitokala engineer 500 I always forget, after the nor capacity test the thing doesn’t recharge the batteries, and then I wonder why the cells are so dim lol
Whereby? The NOR test cycle is charge + measuring discharge + recharge. At least that is what mine does (and I always pay attention to avoid full recharges LoL).
Yea I guess that’s why it was partially charged with marginal voltage readings, they were still blinking, its a full day long process with 4 cells they missed a trick not lighting the charge and nor labels at the same time at the end of the process.
Yep, if you removed the cells while ‘END’ was still blinking the cells were not finished charging. The sooner you removed the cells after ‘END’ started blinking, the lower the voltage.
The way :-D I do it. I usually remove cells once rail output hits ≈3.95V. Bear in mind that, since rail resistance causes a voltage drop equal to resistance times current, it is convenient to minimize this factor wiggling the cells over the rails on startup and checking the resistance reading until it is low for all.
I always do the “cell wiggle” too Barkuti to try & achieve the lowest resistance results. :+1:
I charge mine to the ’bitter END’ though… usually 4.18 - 4.19V.