I think you scratched it. a paper towel is way too abrasive.
I use a “Microfiber” Cloth. I use it for my glasses, screen on phone and my flashlight lenses. It works well.
Hopefully they are small scratches/smudges and you most likely will not notice them when you use your light.
EDIT:iirc Your lens is broken right? The smudges Probably are not going to matter the way your lens is broken,unless you have a new one already which I doubt. Below is the picture you posted.
Potentially but my sanding to remove the "grain" reduced it maybe from 1.60 mm to 1.58 mm - shouldn't effect it. But in theory if taken off 0.1 or 0.2 mm, might have effected things if the reflector no longer tightly sat down on the isolator which sits directly on the MCPCB. I've sanded down copper MCPCB's from 1.60 to even 1.0 mm to match original clearances.
Ohhh - my 2nd FT03 arrived and definitely the glass is different - the 2nd has a definite purple AR treatment while the first was almost slight yellowish, off white. Throw I measured on the 2nd unit was 238 kcd on a GOLISI at 4.20V, amps measured at 9.3 amps -- all stock. Bezel and tube again not glued.
NW?
Yes, NW as well. This is the one I actually ordered back on Feb 13th with no extra shipping, no tracking. The first one was a freebie - thank freeme for that. Wish we knew what goes on there at Mateminco.
Is the MCPCB the same? Any popping sounds when in use?
Ok, I finished polishing up the MCPCB and I can say it is worth it IMHO, now the head heats up way faster than stock version you can start feeling the heat 20 seconds into turbo!
Here are some pics I took!
1-. Here is the MCPCB before I started, there was some sticky solder flux remains that will be cleaned when I get it out…
2-. Make sure you don’t lose those red washers those keep the screws from shorting the driver if they pierce through the thin white mask of the MCPCB!
3-. This is a picture of the base where the MCPCB was, the screws were kind of loose, they were very easy to remove using just 2 fingers that is not good for heat transfer! I see that they applied a little grease but not enough IMHO… Will get fixed!
4.- Picture after cleaning it up with Q-tips and alcohol, will clean it more before re installing the polished MCBCB
5.- Here is a pic of the “Wood pattern” MCPCB you can really feel the ridges, this is not good 
Time to clean and polish! 
6.- This is the MCPCB after I tried to clean the remaining thermal grease
7.- Since I didn’t feel like re-flowing the LED I decided to create a cover using a small syringe
8.- This is how it goes on top of the MCPCB
9.- Secured with masking tape, make sure you clean up any residue of the tape when you are done! There is a piece of glass under that 1200 grit sandpaper (Not shown) I decided not to start at 600 grit paper as Tom E suggested, since I want to control how much material I take out from the back of the MCPCB,
10.- I started polishing using both circular, vertical and horizontal strokes making sure I am applying equal pressure to the whole surface of the MCPCB
11.- Keep checking that you remove the lines, as you can see there is still work to be done
12.- Getting better… Now I proceeded to polish using the 3000 grit sandpaper
13.- Almost! Now for the 5000 grit sandpaper…
14.- And I’m done!!! 
15.- Now to clean up, I used alcohol and circuit cleaner to clean the MCPCB and made sure nothing touched the LED
16.- Don’t forget to clean the underside of the centering washer, it had dried flux…But not anymore!
17.- I put a generous amount of Artic Silver 5 but don’t go crazy with it! MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL THE RED WASHERS!!! Tighten each screw little by little so the MCPCB gets equal pressure and the AS5 spreads evenly.
18.- Solder wires then test the flashlight to see if it works before re-installing the centering ring, reflector, glass and don’t forget to install the oring under the crown, you can hold it there with lube so it doesn’t move and get crimped by the glass.
I also put some lube on the bezel threads and O-ring to help with waterproofing and be easier to remove whenever is time to upgrade…
And you are done!!! Enjoy a better heat transfer on your FT03
Hope you will find this useful!
Sincerely:
AlexGT
How much does the cracked glass affect the focus? I can see some random pattern around the hotspot but I don’t know how much it’s actually affecting the throw.
How do you guys get decent current readings?
I already changed the stock wires of my DMM with 20CM AMP wires, but the maximun current reading i get is 5,2 A
Since my luxmeter reads almost 230 kcd, this seems not really reliable
Well, the internal shunt of the multimeter still has a very large voltage drop.
What you need is to use an external shunt with a resistance of 10mOhms to simulate spring resistance.
Here are my amp readings with a UNI-T UT210E.
Max Ramp
Acebeam 3100 20A: 4.1 amps
LG MJ1 button top: 3.4 amps
Turbo
Acebeam 3100 20A: 7.8 amps
LG MJ1 button top: 6.8-7.2 amps
Samsung 30q button: 6ish amps
I think they did a bad soldering job with the 30Q. Button isn’t centered aswell.
All cells were fully charged. Waited a few seconds before taking the readings. Reading changes slightly depending on how I’m holding the wire.
@alexGT - bloody perfect. Looks amazing. It’s the same principle as heatsink lapping for CPUs in computers; the smoother the surfaces, the more efficient the thermal transfer (also makes sure there’s no “pockets” of thermal paste).
Great to hear it’s so effective! I’ll definitely have to do the same for my stock emitter. Wonder if I can get a spare 28mm to swap my de-domed to…
Don’t use a DMM.
For tail cap amp draws, all you need is a $30 UNI-T UT210E clamp meter. That's the model a lot of BLF folks use due to the big Group Buy back in 2016.
The process looks like this. 
The UT210E can also measure voltage.
Remember that the screws are only there for anti rotation. It’s the reflector pushing down on the mcpcb that is the main source of pressure.
Post #1896 for reference... Continued here
The driver
It's got a 5 wire harness going to the switch (Batt+, Batt-, Red, Grn, Switch) - no idea why Batt+ is needed. 2 boards - the contact board id the LED driver, and the piggyback board is the USB-C charging:
The ATTtiny85 running NarsilM v1.3:
The fake SIR800DP. Yes - these are not the real thing but should work pretty well:
The MCPCB
after polishing, best I could measure was it went from 1.60 mm down to 1.58 mm. Started at 320 GRIT, all the way to 2500 GRIT:
Reflection of a magnifier. Yes, it's quite polished now:
The shelf with machining marks, but after I beveled out the screw holes -- looks nice now, used a simple larger drill bit, works wonders:
After polishing to 2000 GRIT:
Springs
Replaced the stock double springs with the Blue Be/Cu large from batch #1, cut off 1 1/2 rings off the bottom. I want to get lower compression. Batch #2 springs are too stiff for this usage:
20 AWG bypass:
Tail spring with the inner removed, stock outer, 20 AWG bypass:
Sanded down centering piece. Could not get the LED centered - the wires interfered:
All done:
2nd on left, 1st on right. See the purple tint on the left one and yellow on right? It was hard to catch in a pic but much easier to see in real life. Weird they changed the glass:
Full FT03 photo album: https://s1054.photobucket.com/user/TomE2012/library/Break%20Downs/Astrolux%20FT03?page=1
^
Nice work Tom, great photos,I want mine to look like that! 
Is the driver FET+1 or FET+n+1? Whats the pinout they used?
My XP MCPCB will be here tomorrow so I can do some probing then when it’s back apart for the emitter swap but if you took note I can build my FW for the right target tonight.
What in the world. How is this supposed to fit?
Where does the reflector push down on the centering ring?
PS, don’t swap the FET. That might be what’s protecting the led from too much current.
On the inside edge. This centering piece looks like a bowl and the reflector sits inside.
Kind of simple,here is his answer which is in the post,now it will be centered.
Sanded down centering piece. Could not get the LED centered - the wires interfered:
I only see 1 7135 in there so looks like FET+1, Q8 style, but weird because TA designed it and TA is known for triples (FET+bank+1).
Ahh, you really want a 28 mm MCPCB though to clear the reflector opening - it's huge - is that what you ordered?
Ohhh - forgot to mention it still snaps/crackle/pops! WTH is that coming from now? I used MX-4, my favorite thermal grease.
The 2nd FT03 also snaps/crackle/pops, but milder. not as loud -- weird stuff....
Jason, yea, the reflector (from head pics look' down )has a really big oversize hole. I don't see how you can use anything smaller than 28 mm unless your wires are on the inside of the hole, and routed under, or thru new drilled holes - think someone did mod'n like that.