2.4A Driver for XP-E2

12v input, you could get a buck driver and run just about anything you want.

It doesn’t sound like there is much point in pushing the LED harder. Hopefully a wavien helps me get the extra output I’m looking for.

Well, whut’s it in?

If a C8 host, you can try a C8F and have triple emitters. Even keeping the same current, by cutting the current each LED sees down to a third, they’d be way way more efficient.

An HS-802 host has a much deeper reflector, and would convert a marginal amount of what would be spill (ie, wasted light), into hotspot (ie, usable light).

And a wavien coller wouldn’t help, at least I wouldn’t think so.

For white LEDs, it helps “recycle” wasted photons by bouncing ’em back to the phosphor layer to be reemitted. For monochrome LEDs? They’d just hit the silicon and try turning the chip into a photodiode.

Currently it’s in a Uf-t20 Aspheric. A small light with a very tight beam is the desired end state. Specifically I want to see the beam itself as much as possible, hence the green (blue would also work). It is this reason I am looking for single emitter as well.

I am intrigued to try the wavien collar on a solid color led. One of their claims was increased output on solid color emitters.

For anyone interested djozz has tested the colored XPE2 leds. This is the link.

Ummm, yeah. :laughing:

I have the blue XP-E2 as well, just need a pill to put it on.

I am terribly disapointed Luminus has not actually produced their green. From their spec sheet it claims 700+ lumens from a 1mm2 die, FAR more then the XP-E2.

I sure do love playing with this light, lots of fun. It’s near where I want it, but the beam could be a little more solid (hence my hope for the wavien). The parts to put that together should be here tomorrow.

And don’t forget, that by the time you zoom an aspheric to project The Bat Signal from the LED, out-the-front lumens is down to maybe a third, if you’re lucky. 300lm from the LED means maybe 100lm out the front.

That’s why a kick-ass reflector is the best way to throw as much light on the target as possible, but it generally needs to be pretty big (C8 size, ~43mm, at the very least).

At the cost of (unwanted?) spill lighting up the foreground somewhat, of course.

Check the HS-802. Pretty cheap to use as a host, maybe 18-20bux, and like I said, a nice deep reflector to push as much light OTF as possible.

Dedome your led for the uft20 and here are 2 good drivers but your must use one led on copper plate 20 mm

https://www.fasttech.com/p/5278500

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10017778/4594600

:person_facepalming:

:laughing:

I have gone with ashpheric to minimize spill,and from everything I am reading Aspheric throw is just as good, if not better, than reflector.

Sad to say, as close to a laser as I can get, without being an actual laser, is what I want.

A LEP isn’t an actual laser. Just sayin…

If it can make a visable beam, isn’t illegal, and won’t blind you, then I’m interested.

Would you be ok using a white LED?

You could get an SST-20 5000k 65CRI and slice it for absolute maximum throw on a budget, has decent CCT, and does not require insane focusing.

Heck, if not counting for dedoming, it’s still the throwiest 3V 3535 emitter by quite a margin.

too bad Cree made XQE HIs but not XPE2 without dome
they use the same die, but XQEs without thermal pad cant be driven hard at all

Even on a VirEnce MCPCB? Has that been tried?

I run XD16’s on VirEnce boards at well above spec’d max current, I’m sure XQE’s could take it too!

Reflowing 1616 LED’s onto a 5050 pad isn’t exactly easy…