All,
I, through an inadvertent "oops" moment, have a de-domed XR-E emitter of unknown bin that is completely functional. What should I use this emitter on? An aspheric thrower? (no optic = more light through to lens?)
What is the general opinion here?
The XR-E already has a more narrow emission angle than most LEDs, dedoming only further narrows the output.
Whichever route you take (reflector, aspheric) expect a laser-like beam.
Led Seal (LEDsupply.com) will protect the phosphor layer without affecting beam angle if longevity is desired.
I wonder how an de-domed XM-L would perform in an aspheric thrower. Anyone ever tried it? I hear that in a proper reflectored torch output can almost double! Not really sure how that works but it is interesting.
Lumen output goes down, Lux goes up.
Angle of view has a lot to do with it.
Smaller and brighter spot, almost like a simple xr-e. Maybe a little brighter and bigger as I remember. But not so easy, very hard to remove the dome, it is glued to the phosphor layer.
Back to the xr-e, here is an example with a dedomed emitter. Smaller and brighter spot, and more yellowish.
Like a laser.
Left: dedomed xr-e at 1.5A + 50mm lens somewhere 100-120000lux
right: xm-l + 50mm lens ~ 45k lux
Interesting. Whats the distance in your picture.
120-130m
here ~200m
i did the same thing, it throws better but up close has a ringy beam using a usa 168 reflector
I tried with an XM-L after watching this, and It looks like throws on the same angle or very similar.
The funny part of it, is that when dedoming it, the dome came with the phosphor with it, and now it is an intense blue, so intense that it hurts your eyes when looking at it.
I feel it emmits on the UV range now, as it charges the GITD powder quite fast.
So, the experiment was not that bad haha.
Here you got some pics of it, at least they look good hehe.
My Q5 whent from cool white tint to a yellow tint kind of like warm white, but your de-domed xm-l looks like my ultra voilet light, that can not be good for your eye,s. The yellow film is still on my de-domed Q5 that could be the diffrence
Not really UV, even 473nm can do that. 445nm as well as 405nm charges up GTID/Tritium very fast.
This is 405nm, even lights up money security features. 445nm can do so too but only very very faintly.
BTW this is not LED, the 405nm emission is really extremely narrowband and is just really a transient spike on the spectrograph. The camera can still pick up the violet.
I also attached a 365nm LED. Camera cannot pick it up. There is no purple/violet emission. There is only a very faint greenish white emission. Most other 365nm LEDs have a faint purple emission and "interferes". Mfm has a good write-up done here.
I like the unique Blue XML you made! Too bad it looks like they are hard to de-dome, I now want a blue XML too.
Did it break the bond wires? Looks like only one is still connected.
I can't tell you anything else but what you can see on the picture, as It is hard to see such a small thing..
And yeah, it is hard to dedome it, on XR-E's is so easy it can happen without the intention to do it, I feel it is only fixed to the external ring on those ones, but on the XM-L it is fixed directly to the die, and that is why the yellow phosphor layer went out.
I pussed it upwards with a pair of scissors, I do not know how it could be done trying to treat it any better.
It didn't work for me; I had an extremely poorly binned XM-L emitter from DX (very low output and extremely green tint) so I decided to sacrifice it to the cause. In my case, the bond wires all broke and only a small portion of the phosphor pulled away with the dome.
That is a pity Keltex78,
It would be good to know how to de-dome it in a safer way.
Being Silicon, I do not believe heat would help as it resist high temps, with such small dimensions it will be difficult to do it not using brute force, maybe with a magnifier and a very very thing blade could help.
Is it hard to de-dome the XR-E? how do you do the process?
No, it is not difficult to do it, just force it with a pair of pliers or anything similar and it will come out easily, not as with the XM-L where you will need to use more force, and can end up just not working due to it is hard sticked to the die and its wires.
Someone recommended leaving a layer of gel from the dome coating the die to protect it from air. I've seen pictures of burned phosphor blamed on it. Someone else protected the die with norland 61. Others suggest that might yellow over time or cause damage with thermal expansion.
Might want to search a bit on de-domed emitters.
easy to do by accident 