The hole in the tailcap is smaller on the metal switch version. The rubber boot won’t fit through.
“The hole in the tailcap is smaller on the metal switch version. The rubber boot won’t fit through.”
Didn’t realize that since this will be my first S2. Good info, understood, is there anything preventing it from being drilled out, or otherwise opened up, to give room for the rubber boot?
Is the metal switch electronic or mechanical?
Mechanical. The same Omten 1288 switch is underneath both versions.
The switch underneath is the same, one is black and one is white but they are the same.
Yeah, what you can do is bore out the hole to the size of the hole in tailcaps with rubber switches, but I’m not sure if the boards/retaining-rings are compatible.
I haven't bought an S2+ in a couple years nor since the change to the new threads, but in my lights the tailcaps are interchangeable and the switches as shown above use the identical Omten/board/spring. What is different is that the metal switch cap has a thicker shelf up there (about 6.5mm) and formed threads which are a special size/thread (I can't seem to make it out but probably something like 13mm x .8mm)...the opening is about 12.5mm not counting thread depth. Being formed threads instead of cut threads, you have a little ridge on the inside and there is a leftover stub of the boss on the outside where the threads are. In the rubber button cap, that shelf is about 3mm thick and the opening is 16mm. The height of the standard silicone cap is 5mm. So...a new cap at the least and I suppose you might need to swap/remove/substitute the washer inside and see if that would let the switch button protrude far enough to be functional (or I suppose you could add a nubbin or look for a rubber cap with a longer nubbin on it...maybe hunt for a different switch).
Enlarging the hole would be really easy to screw up if you aren't well tooled and experienced. Don't go at it with 5/8" drill bit in a hand drill and hope for the best. Really suited for a press but you also need to be able to firmly and safely hold the cap, center everything accurately. There might be a step/tree bit in 16ths with 1/4" steps that would get you close enough if you can position/center correctly. 5/8" is close enough to 16mm for this purpose. Better suited for a chucked reamer but that's starting to get way expensive if you aren't already set up with tooling like that.
Now the new plastic replacement lighted switches...not sure about those yet but I have several on the slow boat. I wasn't aware those existed until a couple months ago and I can't seem to find any chatter about them except for the ali reviews in Simon's shop.
By the way, to remove the metal switch from the cap....a) don't forget that the brass retaining rings are left-hand threaded....and b) the push button will drop out with a gentle poke, but the stainless base that is threaded into the cap will need some care. Normal right-hand thread but there's not much to grab onto and the metal is thin. A larger pair of duck billed mini pliers (Tekton has a nice pair for $12 on amazon) works, better with a little tape wrapped on the tips, but I found it easiest using one of those cheapie suction cups with the round ball grip like you find in cell phone tool kits. Grippy enough and no risk of slipping to mar the cap, switch body, or the little nylon ring inside the switch body. You may have a rubber-handled screwdriver or something that would also work, or the dipped handles of a larger pair of pliers.
So what’s best, metal tail switch or rubber? I got an S2+ coming with Osram emitter. The 21700 S21a?…bigger version of the S2 I thought was a little disappointing with the Osram CSLPM1-TG. Just too small reflector to make the most of it. What S2+ is your favourite? What LED do you like in this format?
There’s not really a best. If you want certain colors you don’t get a choice.
The black and grey are rubber, the silver is metal or rubber, and all the other colors are metal only.
They both work fine.
If you want to use a lighted switch get one with the rubber button, since both lighted switch kits are made for that one. Simon hasn’t made a lighted switch kit for the metal switch version yet.
They are lighted switches. I like to play around with different color LEDs to make unique colors. Here are some examples:
Simon has some Biscotti drivers that are compatible with lighted switches:
I haven’t tried the 7135*8 driver yet which came out recently, but the SST40 drivers work well with lighted switches (no bleeder resistor required).
Thanks not sure if I need a lighted tail switch although I’m a sucker & will likely get some. I more wanted to know what emitter is generally preferred. I like my SP31-pro lights that have sst-40’s I think ‘that light’ makes good use of the sst-40 & is a good choice. Given the S2 is available in XPL-HI, SST-40, Osram CSLPM1-TG & probably others I wanted to know what someone preferred who has a bunch of these S2’s. Just trying to avoid the inevitable of ending up buying all of them because I need to know. :person_facepalming:
They do different things. The Osrams produce a tighter beam for more throw. SST-40s are the opposite, they create a big wide floody beam. XP-L Hi is also throwy but not as much as the Osram.
S2s tend to multiply like rabbits.
If you're inclined to tinker and have the most basic soldering skills and some cheap thermal paste, you can pick up four or five different LEDs mounted to the copper boards from Simon for the cost of one S2+...perfect comparison platform. I think mostly you should decide if you want to try for a certain color temp, a little more throw, less throw and power for an up-close task or indoor light, etc. Keep in mind that you're a little limited with a smaller host like this both in terms of reflector size/depth and in heat dissipation. There are definitely differences in the emitters but I don't think you get to see the widest range of effects in a compact head like the S2+. Basically the larger the emitter die the less throw, all else considered within the same light design, so the tiny Osram is the standout and the older XML is the more floody (SST40 being the same size mostly). In a larger reflector you can get more of a variety. Personally my favorites are still the Samsung LH351D for general purpose and I do like the SST20 for stock higher current driver. I think the Osram isn't very useful in this small reflector size but it sure is impressive to see that little pencil skinny beam reach for the stars. SST40 kind of the same...in a small light with little heat dissipation potential you don't want to run higher amperage drivers so much so you may as well do the XPL instead (but certain uses like only brief need for the extra turbo lumens of a higher amp SST40 is both impressive and maybe useful for some things while still being in a tiny package). If beamshot pics and videos don't do it for you then there's one way to truly find out... :)
Edit: I don't know how popular the M1 is anymore but it's a considerable difference over the S2 head...reflector is wider and deeper and it's made for more heat while still being very compact and pocketable. Maybe one to consider adding to your mix either as a light or host to experiment with.
I like the color of Osram CSLPM1.TG on my S21A so next i will change my S2+ with Osram CSLNM1.TG consider such a small and compact size of S2+
I see several "Convoy XXX Stores" on AE:
- Convoy Flashlight Store
- Convoy Factory Store
- Convoy Online Store
- Convoy Lighting Store
Which one(s) is/are Simon's?
Yes, that link that Jason shared...Convoy Flashlight Store. Open 8 years with 99% positive feedback (which is actually legit, I think). Not sure if the others are just legit sellers who may buy wholesale from Simon or what (like Banggood, etc, does). If you buy from others just be sure you know what you're getting inside since some have old stock (drivers, emitters, other small changes) and I guess there are actually some fakes out there, too.
@jasontheguitarist and @Correllux: yes I have already bought from this store (and got personal attention from Simon) and will continue to do so, but I was puzzled by these many very similar store names, hence wondering if Simon also offers such personal attention on any of these.
BTW, another question: do you think it may be possible to have Anduril installed on the S2+, be it by modifying the current driver, or in a future upgrade by Simon?
Anduril is for electronic switches, regardless of the driver, you can’t use it with a mechanic switch as they interrupt the current when pressed.