It’s because I’m using XTAR 18700 batteries and they are a bit sharp. This flashlight seems that is designed to use with 18650 but not for 18700, the same case as in the DRY, you have to insert washers in order to use 18700.
I've detected a bug in the driver, for K1NG's owners, try this: Turn on, it will start on High, then press again, it is on Low, again and it turns off... but do some cycles (between six and fifteen times) and you will see that it does something like this: High (press switch) Low (press switch) Off (press switch) High (press switch) Low (press switch) High - Off for miliseconds and - High - (press switch) Low - Off.
The UI is better than TM11's, and the switch is different, on the TM11 you have a double position electric switch (like a photocamera, Focus and Shutter) but here you have only one position. Simpler and better. The UI is excellent, the only problem is the cruel PWM on low.
True… but XTAR are the longest I have, the difference is sightly but it can affect. There aren’t 65mm long with protection circuit cells as far as i know.
Here I uploaded a video of what I'm saying about the bug:
Well, I think we have to take into account that the contacts on the circuit board look to be in bad shape from the Xtar 18700's. Some of the grooves are deeper than others and such. With all the current running through this torch, and the contacts not optimal, perhaps this could be affecting something. I'd say lets wait until others get this torch in hand and see what happens.
I'd hate to think the skyray KING is going to have issues like the TM-11 has.
These are the kind of problems I was afraid of with this light (i.e. SkyRay brand). I could actually tolerate poor PWM better than electrical malfunction with the switch. You just want the light to go off when it's expected to go off.
Ew, yeah that doesn't look promising... looks like it goes Hi/Lo/Off-Hi/Lo/Off, and then the sequence derails and goes H/L/H/Off(just a second)/H/L/Off.
(waiting for others to confirm this too)
Curious, How service-able is this design? Can the internals be easily accessed for DIY repairs, mods or upgrades?
I've been studying the inner workings of this light using photos posted on other websites. I came across a photo showing the switch location and wiring which had me concerned. From what I can see, it appears, at least on this example, there is nothing to prevent the bare wires soldered to the switch from contacting the body. I don't see any shrink wrap, grommets or anything else. But what I do see is what appears to be both the +/- leads contacting, or potentially contacting the body as the wires pass through to the switch.
I don't really care about this problem, for me that is nothing too much important and doesn't happen too often either, Think about it, it is the brightest budget light, it is the tiniest triple XM-L (and also it carries an extra 18650), it has the best machining and anodizing, very nice looking (but not at first :D )... so, PWM and that are just details, come on, this is a BUDGET flashlight, for me it's G-R-E-A-T!
Yeah, it's not uncommon for a budget light to have some build issues, if that's what this is. Even the expensive ones sometimes have problems. I also tend to open up my lights to poke around as I'm sure many of us here do. It appears the positive end is simply glued down. When I get mine, I'll take a look inside and see if the wires require any isolation work to avoid any shorts.
Now seeing the picture again... I think the LEDs are wired in parallel, look at the cables, a pair for the button, and three pairs to the LEDs...
Pretty sure they are not wired in series. Maybe a 7135 MOD can be done, there is plenty of space, you have to rewire the LEDs, but the only problem is how to fit a new switch.
DRY in turbo, 4+amps, voltage sag to 3.6x3 which is > 43 watts. I think those figures are sort of conservative, since I use cgr18650ch (ie they deliver more amps and sag less).
From _the_'s beamshots, it appears to have more throw than the DRY, but certainly not more overall output (which is what I think of when I hear "brighter"). The only way I could see the King having more output is if it had MUCH better heatsinking than the DRY, and measurements were taken after heat sag.
Easy…there is a bolt that threads into the back of the reflector from the inside of the driver pocket. Remove the driver retaining ring and lift the driver. You will see a screw head in the center of the pill where it threads into the reflector. Remove the screw/bolt and the reflector will come right out the front.
I see what you see. It would bother me too, but I think the switch terminals are right where you see the exposed solder. I don’t think there is much chance, if any, of them shifting and grounding out but better safe than sorry. They should have heat-shrink over the terminals or a dab of plasticote applied to cover them.
