That would be the one I bought. I don't think it's different per say, just that they ran out of the black plastic protector for a moment. Mine measures similar to the other tests (with TrustFire "flames"), and fits all descriptions other than the interior guts of the pill which I've not taken apart.
Got my multimeter fixed so I can now do the current draw on the KD C8
--------------------------------------------------------------High------Medium-----Low
Trustfire TR18650 2500mAh Protected (BLUE)-----2.25------0.93---------0.09
Ultrafire XSL18650 2600mAh Protected (Pink)-----2.25------0.91---------0.10
Samsung Blue (Laptop recovery unprotected)-----3.10------1.15---------0.10
Sony Green (Laptop recovery unprotected)--------2.85------1.10---------0.11
Protection circuit in top two seem to be restricting amps out. Anybody got an opinion if the others are giving out too much ?
To be honest you cant really see a difference in output between them all.
The Samsung and Sony cells are probably very much better quality cells than whatever is hiding under the wrappers in the *fires. I usually reckon that 2C is about the most you should pull from a lithium cobalt cell - so as long as they are over 1500mAh you should be fine. I have seen 7A from a protected Trustfire 2500mAh - just not for very long.
Check carefully. The head is actually 2 parts (not including the bezel). At least it is on my Spiderfire (should be the same). The smaller part screws to the body/battery tube, and holds the pill. That's not the part I want to remove. It's the next larger part, which is the housing for the reflector. Remove that, and you have pure flood mode. Can you or anyone remove that part?
I see what you meant on the C9, and many others should do the same... including the C8, yes?
http://www.kaidomain.com/UploadFiles/633598072502490000.JPG
from:
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductImages.aspx?ProductId=5558
My suspicion is that many of these pills and tailcaps are interchangeable... I just don't see any marketing for these interchangeable pills, and little marketing for the tailcaps. The design of these C8-like lights is far superior to P60 drop-ins for bigger LED's. We need marketing of standardized pills.
Update: here's an image from the C8 at Manafont:
If I'm not mistaken, the pill screws out of the head, like on the C2. Note the separate reflector housing headpiece. It's this part I'd like to remove. It's too bad Manafont botched the 3-mode by doing a Hi-Med-Strobe. Haven't found a real 3-mode version yet in the C8 but other models have it.
In my opinion, the Yezl Y6 is more efficient, as the pill screws directly into the flashlight body. Props to Huny for the great review and pics:
I got my red/black fire trustfires today and did some measurments. These batteries are superior to the blue trustfires.
I can pull 3,1A on the red/black ones with the C8 and only ~2,65-2,7A from the blue and grey ones. All in all im VERY pleased with the red/black trusties.
Measurements done with a fluke-87.
yeah the flames are good..I have 6 of them that I use and they all pull good numbers at the tail..
Today i got new flamed trustfires....work fine!
:)
Aw gawd I ordered two of these flashlights and they arrived today. I put a 18650 in one of them, it didn't work, I tried the other, it didn't work either. Seems I put the batteries in the wrong way around in both (have always just assumed negative goes on the spring) now it seems the drivers in both are screwed.
Is there any silver lining here? Are there any drivers I can replace my damaged ones with that will drive even higher currents?
What can I do to fix these torches?
Yikes! I don't have this light, so I'm not going to be of much use. Sometimes they have reverse polarity protection, but I guess this one doesn't. I'm not even sure if it uses a standard 17mm diameter driver, but if it does you could solder in a new driver.
The driver is 17mm.
I just got my flashlight and I don't wont to put the batteries in wrong. the negative side does not go on the spring?
+ to LED
- to Tailcap
Any recomendations on a 17mm Driver? And yes FML
This is one people have been using. The voltage range is 3.6-4.2V, so you can only use the light with one cell, not 2xCR123A.
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=10995
First have maybe mA near the orig. driver, but 5-mode with useless modes (like original ^^).
Second is a quality driver with 2800mA, the modes can be chanched by soldering the stars.
Ok I might give that one a go then, when you say people have been using it, because they stuffed their original? Or just to play around with moding it?
The original did 2.98A, so 2800mA < 2.98A, so slightly less light?
Thanks very much for the infos.
The differece between 2.98 & 2,8, you can´t see.
But mine original did 3,9A ;)
Wow, happy to report that one of the torches driver has fully repaired itself through the magic of time. All modes work as they should.
The other has also recovered somewhat though not fully.
The magic of electronics..
The working one does test quite low though 1.4A, albeit my multimeters scrawny leads might have come into play.
Did some more testing, 2.0A@4.07V with really thick copper wires (which is worse than the 2.2A I get with my multimeter leads). Either I lost the KD lottery or the Trustfire lottery... The batteries are one year old though (Red/Black, got slightly less readings with blue TrustFire 2500 mAh). The most I ever got was 2.3A @ 4.17V. Tested with my Fluke multimeter and an APPA Multimeter (which is not low-end).
Don't think I've said so already so welcome to BLF mbee.
Hope you have fun here. I do.....