Woohoo! 2*123 works for mine also. I’d ordered some USA made Rayovacs from SB with misc parts and had yet to try them since I left the light in my truck.
Pulls a little over 2A and then falls back to about 1.9A with fresh primaries. That’s ~12W just like my UF G4MCU so this one is now dedicated to car duty with the primaries. (18650 spares ride in a day bag from car to car.)
Low was just under 0.5A and strobe about 0.9A. Driver is acting a little flaky in that it doesn’t want to do the strobe at 6v other than the odd time I was doing tail cap measurements.
I’ve had no response to 2 email contacts after ordering this
looks like I’ll have to cancel the order.
EDIT: I finally received an email response last night but HK post shipping was a couple bucks more expensive than ordering with free shipping from Easylightbuy so I ordered there instead.
I’m thinking the screw in pill will transfer heat to the outside very well (like the similar looking non-zoom MXDL @ 12W does) - this will be my first XML zoomie so I’m interested in comparing brightness at distance to the SK68 clones.
Hey all, this is my first time posting here. I am a bit of a newbie to the whole flashlight world, but saw this post and ordered one of these a few weeks ago. I took the switch apart on this light yesterday and can’t seem to get it back together. How should the metal piece on the switch be oriented for it to work? I can’t seem to figure it out :weary: i’m talking about the metal ‘flap’ that is on the white piece in the switch. sorry for a stupid question…and thanks for the help
okay, so there is a longer metal piece that folds along the bottom of the switch with the spring on it, then there is a shorter metal piece that kind of hangs out of the side. do i bend the shorter piece out so it makes contact with the metal inside of the switch, or what? sorry, i’m sure it is an obvious solution but i can’t seem to figure it out
not sure i understand but spring with metal cap on it goes to battery, the flap on the side goes to metal housing (just pressure makes this contact), plastic button is what you push with the rubber outside.
I have no idea what I did but it is currently working again! I tried making contact with the housing every way I could…finally it just worked. not sure if something is loose inside the switch, or if i just have no idea what i’m doing, but that will be the last time i take the switch apart in this light! Thanks yelve for the help and the quick responses!
Well bit the bullet again worked with the p60 pill again at work. Hit the threaded section of the pill on the belt sander and then was able with the help of the press was able to push it in. It was a perfect fit. Forgot to take the new 17mm driver to work to install but did put it in when i got home. Swapped the xpg out for a xml u2 1c and installed a Kd V2 3.04a driver set on HML no memory. Man it woke this dang light up! It is a nice design for heat transfer in my opinion. Part of the pill screws into the head and into the body and distributes the heat very well! It gets warm pretty quick on high but it also speads out over the whole flashlight well with the head getting the warmest. Has good enough heatsinking now to run high for the life of the battery.
Comparing it to my c8 with the same led and a east92 driver they have similar brightness overall. The sa-16 has alot bigger hotspot and is more of a wall of light compared to the c8. Definitely worth the effort and enjoyed the build/mod. Finally have it the way i want it. Now will give it away to my buddy for Christmas.
Still have another one sitting in the box. Wonder what i should do with it?
Mine is still sitting in the box too… I never even put a battery in it, not even once. If I ever hit 1000 posts, I’m pretty sure I know what I’m giving away.
Okay, so I guess I got the light out and started fiddling with it.
Driver gotta go. Blech.
Wow, tight beam, and pretty bright!
So I took a Nanjg105c, removed 4 of the 7135s and jerry-rigged it to fit the driver hole:
It doesn’t look all that great, but it fits super snug, it’s not gonna pop out!
With a little bit of custom Luxdrv, and some heatsink goop around the LED, it’s good to go!
BTW, I removed the little spacer/spring cap that goes between the driver and the battery, and I also left the tiny spring the Nanjg comes with, rather than the inch long junk it had, and now any battery I wish fits properly and things close all the way. (They definitely didn’t before)
Sorry no did not use the p60 pill for anything except for holding a 17mm driver. I built a seperate piece to fill in the hole under the led. I have pics if still needed.
I had an xpg 3C in it but was not as bright as I wanted it to be. Plus had a member that gifted me the xml U2 and had tried it in other lights and didnt work out very good till this light.
It’s just press fit, exactly like the original driver. Obviously the 17mm driver was too small, and I needed to make it bigger, so I wrapped the wire around the edge and soldered it to the driver in a few spots. At first it was just a touch too big, so I used the soldering iron to smash down the solder blobs a tiny bit and then it was perfect. I had to push pretty hard to get it in, and it’s not coming out without some prying, which is precisely what I wanted. I’d feel a bit happier if I could have found a way to solder it to the aluminum, but it sounded like a major pain, and I don’t care about the light THAT much.
You know what surprised me the most about this light? The fact that it throws such a tight beam, and it has a tiny plastic reflector! There is very little spill.
My biggest gripe is the fact that the pill is hollow… that’s just dumb. Hopefully at 1.4 amps it won’t get too hot.
Received the MXDL XML zooming cousin or the SZOBM ZY-603 today. The first shipment was lost in transit. Reordered it (after refund) on the evening of 12-16 and received it from Singapore today.
Posted a little info on it at the “What you got today” thread.
On first impression, I like everything about it - though another $5 special would have made it finer! :bigsmile:
