This is my current shotgun setup it’s an old style Solarforce L2M with a custom single mode XML 3 amp low voltage drop in powered by a single CR123 with 2 spare CR123s stored in the stock. I use a Knox recoil reduction stock to save my shoulder and a Magpul single point sling for a ready to rock carry angle.
Looks sweet and sounds like a well thought out set-up. I prefer tube mount instead of using the fore-grip also.
Hope you’re feeling better by the way.
I didn’t mean carrying a firearm means I or the group don’t carry bear spray as well, and I do try to do everything possible to avoid an encounter in the first place. I try to plan ahead for various scenarios and decide ahead of time what the appropriate action is, and at what distance and bear behavior a point of no return is crossed and lethal force is the appropriate response. In many situations there isn’t time to make these decisions in the moment, so planning and training, regardless of the tool used is important. Of course it is easier to employ multiple levels of force when in a group than when solo, so that is a factor as well. I don’t think there is a one size fits all solution given the range of possible people, encounters, tools, etc.
It sounds like you have real world experience with a shotgun, so I appreciate the advice. I am planning on getting a tritium front post, and enlarging the rear aperture if necessary to make it closer to a ghost ring setup. By reflective sights do you mean a reflex optic? That convoy is nice, but I like the possibility of interchanging the drop-ins with the solarforce hosts, both for experimenting with different setups and to be able to swap out parts if something fails in the field. Perhaps I should look at standardizing to 18650 for primary lights and keeping AA as backup in the unlikely event I can’t recharge or run out of spares.
I was looking at the EDC dropins, but if I got one of those and the P1D, I’m looking at ~$75, which is fine, but at that price is there something better/equivalent in a surefire, fenix etc? As far as emitter, I think xm-l will suit me better.
E1320, nice setup. I’m also experimenting with the magpul single point, but no real field time yet to make a call on it. I would prefer non-foregrip mount like you have but am somewhat restricted by my configuration. If I can find a way to mount to the top rail, offset and down, without interfering with the sight picture, then I may go that route. Will probably require a custom mount though.
Sounds like you’ve thought it through. Any more questions, just ask.
Regarding backups… you could go with a drop-in/driver with a voltage range of 2.8v - 6v. That would permit use of either 4.2v 18650 li-ion reachargeables or 2x cr123a lithium primaries (3.0v ea) in a backup scenario.
Nothing wrong with keeping AA lights around as a backup-backup.
“2 is 1, and 1 is none”
Part of the advanced human wildlife conflict training syllabus used to be a scenario where the the candidate has to decide at what point in a possible bluff charge to elect for lethal force (it was discontinued when the target got hung up on a bush and when the tension on the line released, the bear became an airborne bird of prey causing the candidate to lose all sense of muzzle control as he dove for cover). Pretty much the same as what the Cadets at Depot in Regina go through with video bad guys, except more Red Green with measured live rounds and just a piece of plywood on a cable with a silhouette of a bear on it. It’s obviously tricky as you point out - to know what you’ll actually do, but as you mention, it seems to boil down to just getting one, maybe 2, shots placed anywhere near the target. (Seems like the guys that are good at sporting clays (which I’m not) are best at hitting that target, which makes sense.)
Sounds like you’ve got it pretty well sorted and should end up with something good. I’ll post a shot later when I get to work of the setup that I currently have that I have to live with but don’t really recommend, in fact I have not even tried the Convoy M2 with that emitter in the weaver mount yet except for mounted on my bump helmet while biking and it seemed to work well for that, but it has to be better than what I had.
I have an Elzetta Light Mount paired with a Ultrafire 501B MC-E 500lm on my Mossberg M590A1. Flashlight from our friends at FastTech.
!http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv250/topcover22/Gunnery/20130517_144306.jpg !
You sure that’s an XPE? Looks like an MCE :~
As far as a light mount this one has a few variants all function well http://www.customlites.com/Solarforce-M-001-gun-mount-Sol-M001.htm On slugs these are the best at poking deep holes in nasty beast. http://www.brennekeusa.com/cms/241.html As far as a light, E1320’s L2M is as near perfect as anyone is going to get. Stay away from pressure pad switches, all fail rather quickly, none were ever designed for 3 amps. Ghost ring sights are a good idea as the rifle sight you have on it now are a bit too restrictive for fast shooting. Get a real stock, the pistol grip is good but for your shoulder get something a bit better. Once your rig is all set to go take it to a range and practise a few boxes of birdshot on clays. When you can hit clays then bears should be a bit easier. Clays are fast and only out there a few seconds. Keep shooting at it, if you miss the clay. Too many of my officers shoot at the clay, miss it then watch it sail away. If your paper punching targets for defensive bear practise your not helping yourself any. Paper targets give you all the time you want and don’t move. If it feels right then a few boxes of slugs to sight in and get the feel of recoil on your chosen bear medicine.
P.S. not to hurt your feelings any but your shotgun is too short, the forearm is going to be hard to cycle and may be better suited with a T-grip. For myself I’d go with a 14” Mossberg or Remington Magnum to allow proper cycling, magazine capacity, better ballistics, less flash and less recoil. A good wide padded sling will go a long way to making a larger shotgun feel right on your back all day.
Holy Crap! You’re right! I forgot I switched out the light last night. Correction made.
Damn you’re good. (I just threw up in my mouth).
Hahaha no worries mate. Sorry? about the vomit?…
Only spotted it because I am a warm tint fan and have been considering some MCEs. How do you like it?
As far as the “warm tint” that’s the exact reason why I chose to switch it out. In a completely dark room, the “warmer” light was a lot easier for my eyes to adjust. I’m going to put the XPE on my AR once my light mount shows up.
I like it a lot as a flashlight. The price was right at $17.10. Running it off of a reclaimed laptop 18650. 5-modes. We’ll see how it holds up to a box of 00Buck shot from it. 8)
Preaching to the choir. Totally with you on that. I find my eyes are very biased toward warm light. Cool blues are very harsh to me. Especially indoors at night with adjusted vision.
Thanks for the feedback. Need to give an MCE a shot one of these days. Seems like a very neglected emitter.
Here is an update:
I finally have gotten back around to this project - not enough hours in the day!
A few items have come in over the past couple days.
The EDC drop in is xml @ 1.5a, 3 mode. Will hopefully be a good balance of battery life, brightness, and reliability.
I took a liking to the solarforce lights, and thought I would solve my battery standardization concerns by switching to all 18650 for primaries, and using p60 hosts also will allow me to swap out components easily if something fails. I’ll keep a couple AA/AAA around as backup for the backups. Ok ok, I also just wanted some new flashlights haha.
The yellow guy is destined for a nitecore headband, we’ll see how the weight and positioning work out.
Waiting on two mounts to arrive, wasn’t sure which would work better so I got two different options. This is approximately where it will mount off the top rail. I’ll update when they arrive and after putting some rounds down range.
I also bought a P1 and P1D, but still waiting for the drop ins from FT that have not arrived in almost a month. I had not thought about mounting them on my work issue firearm, a Wingmaster, but that’s an idea. I had previously ordered about 3 of the remote tail cap switches from FT and none of them fit any of the lights I had, but I just tried one of them on the P1 and it seems to fit properly. Now my problem is as I threw the bags out that had the SKU’s on them, I have to try and figure out which one it is that actually fits, I think it is SKU 1091401, best to see if they have changed to the better switch before buying, mine has the older pressure switch which apparently had problems.
I originally was thinking of mounting a P1(D), but for some reason thought it was quite a bit bigger than the L2’s, and assumed it wouldn’t fit any of the 1” mounts. But I just measured and it’s 1.075” compared to 1.000”, so maybe you could squeeze it in to some mounts. I will give it a shot when they get here.
From the reading I did on pressure switches, it sounded like it wasn’t a good idea because a lot had issues with sealing/failure where the wire comes out of the cap. But maybe it’s just a matter of getting a quality one? Also, without a secondary switch, the light would always turn on, and you might accidentally switch modes if you shift your hand? And the wire might catch on things. That’s just my impression without actually having used one before. Thoughts?
That sucks you’ve been waiting a month, I’ve had mixed results lately from various suppliers. Was pleasantly surprised by Solarforce and EDC, they arrived 2 weeks after purchase.
I strongly recommend using a single mode drop-in otherwise you will likely find your light changing modes on you. It is amazing how much firing (and even just racking the slide) causes the battery to bounce inside the flashlight and change modes, even when sprung on both ends.
Here is my current setup:
It's possibly the most frightening thing I can imagine ever staring me in the eye if I wasn't the one holding it. ;)
Any P6O Host with OP reflector will suit fine for shotgun setup…
But cheap P60 pills are not good for extended rifle using because of:
- super tiny and poor soldered wires
- bad thermal path from emitter to pill
- cheap buck drivers have problem where “reel with copper wire” on the middle of driver often unsolder due recoil
So only P60 pill I would recommend are handmade, with thicker wires, potted,
Or HQ brand P60 drop ins like Malkoff, epoxied, well made and virtually indestructible drop in.
Shotgun is life saver, zombie apocalypse will be sooner than you think, and you should have only the best and most reliable flashlight/drop in for it J)
True that! Exactly why I hand built this drop-in. Fully potted, 20ga wires, fully soldered driver perimeter. Even the emitter is reinforced with full bead of cyanoacrylate gel around it’s perimeter. It’s a rock solid brick! >)
I need you!
I am looking for best way to protect de domed emitter. I am not sure what I can do for protect it without Lux/lumen drop.
So how do you apply this cyanoacrylate gel? (please link some source for them)
I mean this goes on star and fully covers wire and solder joints something like this?
That kind of configuration looks very solid… Probably it could withstand 50BMG recoil testing parameters.
Haha, maybe 2nd scariest behind a real chainsaw at close range. I assumed the double springs would maintain battery contact, I will have to keep an eye on that. What about wrapping the battery for a snug fit to minimize movement? Or adding an extra stronger spring on either end?
This EDC drop in better not fail @$40! Will put it through some torture testing and see.