.
I know that there were a very few posts about people damaging their lights using the H10 cells with prolonged use of “turbo”.
But there were far more postings from people (including Wurkkos) that said there was no problem with doing so.
In any case, I have been using the H10s with no issues at all. But do note that I have used turbo only a very few times for a few seconds at a time.
I set my floor to 5/150 and ceiling at 120/150. I use the light on the floor setting the vast majority of the time.
One of these days, I will get around to fully disabling turbo in all 4 of my TS10s. It is really of little to no practical use in a light this size anyway.
BTW, at one point I was going to buy some L10s, but when looking for some they were either not available or more expensive than the H10s.
I have about 6 of the Wurkkos 14500s (900 mAh), so if I feel I need something with lower current capability, I just use those. Honestly, I keep the cells in my frequently used lights topped off. So I have not been able to tell if there is much significant drop off in practical runtime between those and the H10s.
In short, I don’t think you need to buy batteries. I think 1000 true mAh is about the best you can get from this form factor battery. I also don’t believe that you will see a noticeable difference in using cells with the same capacity +/- 100 mAh.
Vapcell 10A and 15A are excellent choices. I’ve found good performance in them. But also, I’m not a turboholic. I do use turbo from time to time but not for extended periods, or allowing a little cooling and then ramping up again. These lights are really not designed for long term turbo use. And the powerful warmth they give off is a wonderful tactile reminder to “back off” when the LED’s and battery is getting challenged.
If they do, I can’t find them. The smallest cell I see on their site with a 15 amp continuous rating is an 18500 cell.
Of course, I have missed things before…
I use Vapcell H10
The come-with cell is fine for me. It’s a small light with very little thermal mass, and with people reporting cooked LEDs on turbo, I’d just rather use the come-with cell as is, than go all out with a “hotrod” cell and have to limit the top end of the light to keep from cooking it. Like, what’s the point?
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Vapcell INR14500 L10 Will work like original wurkkos? Can I use it with my ТS10?
Yes the flat top L10, 49mm long, does work in my TS10.
The stock Wurkkos button top is 49.9mm long.
The button top L10 is 52mm long, I do not recommend it, but I have not tested it.
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I’m using a button top Vapcell ICR14500 in mine - it’s around 51 to 52mm long. https://www.aliexpress.com/i/4000533323376.html
So , my little 14500 Wurkos should be here by the end of the week. My buddy had one yesterday and I just couldn’t resist! Figure to hot rod it and see just what it’s capable of…
Now come on, who does that surprise? I mean, really? Lol
FWIW, the Shockli 14500 has been a very good performer for me. I’ll be running it in the TS10.
I would caution against using any cell longer than 50mm. This is a “tube in a tube” light and more sensitive to internal contact issues. I’m also believing there’s a likelihood of switch and or driver damage if a longer cell is over compressed (as I experienced in one of these). Since then, I’m running Vapcell H10, L10, or Epoch 10A flat tops exclusively in my TS10’s.
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Once in a great while I run into this scenario where a light’s battery tube is too short or my preferred cell is too long. I typically machine a corresponding brass spacer ring and carry on. On a few occasions I’ve bored the tube for the next size up cell to gain it’s advantages. Or have even just made a new battery tube. And all this, because once-upon-a-time I bought a flashlight from China that didn’t work straight out of the box. In trying to find out why I stumbled into BLF.
Wow, ten years of modding because of a cheap flashlight!
Edit: that first light, a cheap clone of the once popular TrustFire HD2010.
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I’ve tried using both flat and button top H10 14500 with my TS10.
When I installed the head, the TS10 started blinking rapidly, so I backed off.
The TS10 I’m using is the Cu version.
Any one else experience this?
it is listed as being 52mm long, which means the body tubes dont make good contact… Suggest you stick to shorter batteries including all of the ones pictured here.
These all work in my TS10, they are all shorter than 52mm long. The two on the left are button tops, the two on the right are flat tops
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@jon_slider already posted a great answer. To answer your question directly, yes I have had the same problem with the button top H10 cells. What is peculiar is the button top H10s work fine in 2 out of the 5 TS10s that I have. I bought a few flat top H10s and they work fine in all of the lights.
Those Vapcell F12s look interesting. As I almost never use anything much above 75/150 (mostly 10/150), I would probably see some gains in runtime.
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btw, fwiw, imo… lol
The Lumintop 14500 USB rechargeable protected button top is a great way to add “built in charging” to a TS10, which makes it potentially a more suitable gift to new flashlight users that dont own a charger.
A similar USB 14500 battery is sold by Skilhunt, and also Acebeam
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I had the same issue, try tightening the head harder, you need to put a bit of extra force to ensure proper connection of the head to the body.
Hey Jon, just bought a Vapcell F12 flat top 14500 for my TS10 to add a little extra capacity.
This may be a strange or newb question but do I need to charge it before using it in the TS10 or do anything special before using it? (I don’t have a battery tester or meter to check the capacity).
Thanks for all your help so far!
Congrats!
I would put it in the light and use 3C from off to get the battery check flashes… they count in groups… first either 3 or 4, and then the extra digits
so 3 flash, pause, 7 flash would be 3.7 Volts…
you can use it now for a bit, and if it gets too low the light will reduce brightness until it turns itself off safely if Voltage goes below 3V…
and whenever convenient, charge it back up to full
I usually do that when they go below 3.6V
I use the built in battery check flashes… usually when I first reach for a light that has sat overnight or whenever Im curious…
consider as a rule of thumb that 3V is near empty, 4V is close to full… and inbetween is inbetween… lol
actually a fully charged battery will read either 4.1V or 4.2V…
I use the batt check feature regularly… its very handy not to have to take the battery out to check the voltage 
if the light is in Advanced mode, the batt check repeats in a loop until you click off… if in Simple, it blinks out the Voltage just once, and stops by itself…
thats how I determine if Im in simple or advanced… too
enjoy
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