14V Landing light for an experimental aircraft

Hello,

I’m new here - I am looking to replace a DIY PAR36 HID landing light on an airplane I built with an LED setup similar to this.

The plane has 14V electrical system with an alternator very similar to a car, so power is not a problem, but an electrically quiet driver is necessary.

It looks like the kit referenced above is using XHP35s and Ledil IRIS optics. I was looking make my own using these LED modules with XP-G3s and Khatod PL1672 Optics. Would mount on some aluminum structure with heat sinks.

Any thoughts on these components or other ideas/ directions? I’d also appreciate thoughts on how to drive this unit.

Thx - Pete

You’re going to love it here, FlyingGecko!

Can you post a link to your actual build?

Im curious why you posted this here instead of an aviation forum?

Do you possess a PPL or above?

Most of the guys I know, including myself, run one of the following:

or for special purpose experimentals, the largest https://www.bajadesigns.com that will fit into the wing or cowl (assuming enough continuous ram air to cool the heat sink).

For all the obvious reasons, stay FAR away from anything that hasn’t sold thousands of units to the aviation community with a proven track record of extreme reliability.

Im not trying to be rude, but you will be far better served researching what you’re trying to accomplish in the appropriate forum. This isnt it.

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HI FlashPIlot. No offense taken.

I have over 3000 hours and 18+ years on my RV-9A. I do spend lots of time on the aviation forums, like Van’s AirForce. I had built my original landing light out of parts salvaged from a wrecked Audi A4, modifying a PAR 36 housing to accept a D1S HID bulb. After 18 years, the ballast has gone bad, and they are no longer made, but I do have a used one coming from EBay. I built my nav lights from Luxeon stars 20 years ago, and they are still going strong.

In the past 18 years, it seems that LEDs have surpassed HID for landing lights, so I thought this might be a good time to see what I could brew up from high power LEDs and TIR optics. I was hoping this forum might have expertise in this area that they could share, since a landing light seems a lot like some of the super throwy flashlights/divelights that people are making/modding.

There are lots of LEDs solutions to purchase, as you mentioned, but I like to make my own stuff to learn and have fun/save money. I made a custom ignition system with dual timing curves and cockpit adjustable timing advance and an advance display for about 1/3 the cost of a system that I could buy, with way more capability. Similarly, my fuel system is custom to eliminate vaporlock in the summer.

The flyLEDs unit I linked to has sold thousands and appears to be high power emitters with optics and heat sinks. They have a very good track record. I have an order in for the parts I mentioned and will experiment. If I fail - I’ll just buy something.

If anyone has thoughts on better parts or optics to use, let me know, I’d appreciate it.

Thx- Pete

Avoid G3s at all costs. Worst angular tint-shift ever. Blue out the front, yellow out the sides, suck as mules, suck behind reflectors, suck behind TIRs. Only way they’re tolerable at all is behind lots and lots of diffusion film as area-lighting.

Depending on the CT you want, people might recommend one emitter over another. 3000K? 6500K? Other?

Lightbringer - thank you, that is what I was looking for. That info would send me towards XHP35s or SFT-40s - pilots report 5000k works well for landing lights. I’ll dig into TIR optic options.

Appreciate the reply.

Pete

Hi Pete,

Its a relief to see you’re a seasoned pilot. We lose far too many in my sate who are not (and several who are). In particular, those who skimped on attaining and maintaining their endorsements and proficiency.

I live at a sky park and own several aircraft, including a RV-4, 8 & about to complete a Harmon Rocket II. 4200 hrs PIC in GA.

I linked the best common PAR36 LED replacements for their milspec standards, hardened build construction, including high vibration resistance, transient suppression, integrated heat sinks and fast current throttling to prevent overheating… among a myriad of other PMA’d requirements. One of my local flying buddies founded and owns AeroLed, who supplies several large OEM’s and military applications.

IMO, the option you linked has been far surpassed in sheer luminosity by several other options. Nor have I ever heard of them before. A quick read shows no mention of the driver build, over-volt protection, heat management via current throttling or protection from transients. If your flying involves only from improved fields, then that may be enough, sans all the safety features I would never fly without. I assume you are using the 60A Mitsubishi alternator?

I often fly at night. Sometimes into unimproved fields surrounded by steep mountainous terrain, obstacles galore, no go-around options and zero ambient lighting. So there is no tolerance to lose illumination for being cheap. I have never seen someone skimp on lighting (whether cockpit. marker or landing), especially at the level of an RV. I know more than 100 RV and Harmon Rocket owners, with +45 on my field alone. Skimping here is akin to putting the cheapest Walmart tires available on a $2 million super car. I once KNEW people who had electrical fires caused form shorted, improperly rated circuit boards, some resulting in total loss of life and having been burned alive in flaming AV gas after a forced landing. People can burn while enveloped in flame for up to 10 minutes before death occurs, so hopefully smoke inhalation and asphyxiation takes them long before .

I hope you’ll take my remarks into consideration while making your decision. My experience in GA, and those who I surround myself with, have seen far too many absolutely HORRIBLE fatalities caused by those who threw safety to the wind in order to save a buck.

I agree 5 - 5.5 K to be a great color temp for illuminating a wide variety of terrain. 6 - 6.5K is only marginally worse at color rendition from the air but improves contrast while in motion. This is why most AG aircraft seem to prefer higher K while dusting at night. The downside is it tends to wipe out peripheral night vision during taxi, causing a tunnel vision effect. Everyone’s eyes are different so you might have a different experience.

If you search, I threw together a light-bar I posted on this forum, using purpose built 14VDC 13.5A drivers for the application. I didnt post this, but after what I learned from that build, I built a custom lighting system for a friends RV7 driving 16 XML-2 (8 in each wing on polished copper backplanes). Output @20,000 lumens OTF. His 7 is stretched, has a custom blended high performance airfoil and powered by Lycon 400hp IO540. He mostly flies daytime VFR, and at the time the other options weren’t available. He had no intentions of ever using the lights unless landing after sunset. He competes in the experimental category at Oshkosh and won 2nd overall. Would have won first, but arrived late without enough time to detail the plane after a long cross country. The lights were just another bling gimmick for people to ogle over through the light covers, along with the rest of his extraordinary build effort. For giggles, he also threw together this little hot rod and later sold it. RV-3 - Van's Aircraft Total Performance RV Kit Planes

I do NOT recommend using the LED drivers I mentioned in any build what-so-ever, and I only mentioned them as a point of reference. After all, they cut out @15.1VDC to protect the LED array from over-volt and built to suppress transient spikes from the alternator. They are beefy linear drivers, which will dim the emitters slightly when throttled to idle during short finals and extended taxi, to preserve the battery (Odyssey PC680, when the alternator isnt producing max current above 1200 engine RPM). If I could wave my magic wand, Id imagine something using that driver powering 4 XHP70HI emitters (32,000 lumens out the front), utilizing the thermistor and rheostat options for temp management and cockpit dimmable landing light options. Master arm switch > SPDT switch to select between rehostate and 100% power through an inline 1hZ strobe circuit for inflight collision avoidance. Small NACA ducts under each wing to channel cooling air to the heat sinks and light cavities. Depending on your skills, if you can mount the package in the cowl between the prop and air intake, you’ll avoid voltage loss over long runs of copper wire to the wings and save weight while simplifying cool air ducting to the lights. I have seen the air intake lowered on an RV build to accommodate 2 PAR 36 lights with tremendous ramp appeal!

Stay safe and please don’t become another tragedy that easily could have been avoided. Sorry for the sermon, but at least now you know why. Sorry my post was so long!

FlashPilot,

Thanks for all the background and info here. I rarely if ever fly at night and live in the very flat upper Midwest. The lights I have are mostly for recognition. I’ve been in the game long enuf to appreciate safety and will take your words to heart.

Here is a nice Kitplanes article on the lights I mentioned

Thanks for the reply and Happy Holidays!

Pete

Just a quick update - I have assembled some XHP35.2 emitters with Khatod 35 mm Ultra Narrow optics and heatsinks. Driving the emitters at 12v/950ma leads to a very bright, tight beam for less than $20 per unit. I’m planning one is each wingtip for wigwagging and even tho I have fixed my main HID unit, I’ll make a 4 banger (taxi/landing) combo LED to replace that PAR 36 HID unit.

Amazing LED stuff can be built for very low $$ with a bit of research and work!

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What sort of drivers are you using for your lights?

I have always wanted to modify my cibie super oscars (the LED versions) but am always stymied by lack of suitable drivers for automotive voltages, with more than 2-3A drive currents.

HI John,

I’m using some 1000ma CC drivers I sourced out of Turkey, of all places, years ago. They have worked well, and critically for aircraft work, don’t cause any RF noise. I have them in 700, 1000, and 1400ma flavors. I can’t find them on the web anymore.

Here is the prototype install on the plane - few tweaks to make, but happy with it overall. Big heatsinks on the back keep everything pretty cool, but they produce a lot of heat!

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