it will be better without wholes and in case we need them we can drill like said above.the design in the first post its really good and we can make it smaller if we need(14mm)
I’d like to see the pads a little closer to the emitter for trimming purposes if necessar. (I’ll be looking at cutting it down, 14mm or even 12 or 10) And the pads ideally should be apart from the holes to whatever extent possible. The oval pad with the narrow sides in/out seems to work well.
XM series, XP series, and Nichia sound good to me. (No need to list XM-L/L2 or XP-G/G2, XP-E/E2 , as the footprint is the same within the series) Such that Cree XP, Nichia will cover that whole family of die sizes while Cree XM will cover the larger die.
I’d think 1.6mm would seem to be the standard. I’d opt for the thicker 2mm board given that option. The more heat off the emitter, the brighter and longer lasting the emitter will be.
Nice work, thanks for the help PilotPTK.
the right board is the one i updated ??
yes the + and - spots are closer to the led ,so now we can cut the pcb more,i prefer this version.
But this might pose a problem with centering plastic inserts, if the solder blob is too close to the led. I will not order those (i have 2 PCBs from led-tech), so don’t let my opinion change the design,
but maybe some of you also want to use those centering inserts.
Make the - pad larger, so if desired one of the mounting screws can also provide the ground connection. Leave the + side trace as-is so the opposite screw doesn't come near it.
Thats not a bad idea. Having mount holes separate from wire hols would make the boards more versatile. As it stands now you would have to choose one or the other. Not only that if you tried using screws in it you need very small heads to avoid shorting out the + and - wire pads.
I’d rather get 16 mm sinkpads optimized for 16 mm. I’m not a fan of having the wire contact pads so close to the LED mount as it would interfere with centering inserts and make it harder to solder without getting an accidental short.
Rather than trying to make a 16mm that can be cut down to 14mm, how about just making a 16mm and a completely separate 14mm.
Yea that’s a good point either go with. 16mm or 14mm
May I suggest making the positive and negative part that will be under the insulation layer smaller? Maybe same width as the solder spots. So you could still easily grind them down, scrape the insulation off and solder there. Also that would make drilling holes for mounting easier.
IMO its best when the biggest part of the board is electrically neutral.
No need for round solder pads, oval pads would increase clearance from led footprint and make use of centering inserts easier. Also there is no need for conductive layer to be so close to the edge of the board. I vote for 1.6mm thickness boards.
I agree, trying to make these be moddable is going to compromise the integrity of the board. Personally I would rather have the 14mm vs 16, I just never mentioned it before because it seems like others prefer the 16. 14mm is actually the maximum size I could even use in most of my lights. A 12 is more appropriate for maglites and other focuasable type mods.
LEDS- Xm-L2 & Xp-G2
My 20mm BD= 1.7mm . Go with 2.0mm for Max Cooling.
Wire Hole size=.100”.
We need Screw MT. Holes=.125”. Also clearance for Screw Head to +V.
Optimize for 16mm
Allow room for small centering Plastic Insert. This also helps to Insulate +V from AL Ref.
I agree with NightCraw in post #29
New Artwork Per nitro’s Request:
And the XP-G/XP-E/XT-E Version
AWESOME PPtk
To me that looks like its all encompassing. That drawing has almost every single thing I have heard mentioned. Great work guys.
The 2 mounting holes will be a tad smaller but if needed u can always drill bigger and by the design u can grind away a lot from 16mm down to 14mm
The clearance between the thermal pad and emitter power pads on the XM-L SinkPad. The thermal pad appears to be twisted, making the gap closer on top and bottom.
A closer look tells me that the positive and negative strips themselves are canted slightly, the thermal pad is square. Noticeable due to the straight line edges on the thermal pad and stairstepped lines of the other 2, narrower, strips.
Image Rendering Error. They’re correct - the Gerber -> Jpeg Conversion introduces artifacts on non-horizontal and non-vertical lines.
Here’s a single board Array with both XM-L and XP-G boards included. This should only require a single setup fee with SinkPAD, Inc.
PPtk