17mm to 20mm driver adapter?

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
1

I killed my flashlight. It was a 26650 zoomie with a T6 but it had the awful next mode memory.

I ordered the following stuff:

I soldered it together in what seemed a sensible manner.

However it just doesn’t work. Even using test wires to the battery all I got was sparks. Nothing from the LED.

Anyways, is there a better way to use a 17mm driver in a 20mm-driver flashlight? Some kind of copper ring or something? I would really appreciate some tips here. All of the 26650 flashlights have this brain dead next mode driver which drives me crazy.

Thanks!

2

I could be wrong, but that looks a lot like BAT+ Shorted to BAT-

PPtk

3

Except now I have a bad ground between my spring disc and the pill.

The light will work if I shake it just so, and then carefully hold it.

I tried soldering the spring disc to the pill, but the pill is aluminum and even with a tube of aluminum flux I’m getting nowhere.

I guess I need some electrically conductive epoxy unless one of you knows a trick as to how to do this.

Thanks again!

P.S. Grr… this driver has the same annoying next mode behaviour, it doesn’t have any memory. They lied |(

4

ouchyfoot started a thread awhile ago about securing pills using copper braid (solderwick). If I find it, I’ll post a link, but you can search for it too.

Edit: The thread was by ouchyfoot: Jumping the Gap: That pesky P60 driver-pill contact point.

5

Some grinding required, but JohnnyMac has a fix for you here:

Worked out well on my UF-V3.

6

Actually, I stretched out the spring a good bit and that got it working for now. Shaking and stuff doesn’t seem to affect it so I’ll call it good until I have issues.

The driver actually does have some sort of memory, but I can’t quite figure it out. I think you have to wait a few seconds before turning the light back on in order for it to not want to advance.

But Hooray! Its back in action… with memory! Thanks everybody!

7

Price looks like its only for one… kind of expensive for what you get. Here you go: WallBuys.com is for sale | HugeDomains

Instead, I strip my old drivers and make them into a contact plate, then solder one of these to the battery side of the contact plate. The area that makes contact on this particular size ring is tapered and thin, so it heats up quickly with the soldering iron. Just center it with clamps and draw a solder bead from the ring to the outer copper contact layer, one on each side. Snap in your 17mm driver and youre done. Most of my drivers are a tight snap-in fit in these particular rings and do not require solder to hold or ground them properly.

8

Tagged for reference. Good info :slight_smile:

9

I've used something similar to the JohnnyMac workaround linked above on a couple of my lights and it worked well...

10

I used a copper sealing ring to fit a 17mm driver in a 22mm light

11

The issue has been resolved, but as a direct answer to the topic and for future reference there are these: http://intl-outdoor.com/17mm-to-20mm-brass-ring-driver-adapter-2pcs-p-804.html

12

Just bought these: KD 20mm (External) x 17.1mm (Inner) Copper Ring Adapter for 17mm Circuit Board - 5 PCS

13

Hmm, you might wanna check that link… it goes to a youtube clip.

14

:bigsmile:

Opps…I was emailing my brother the link to the vid just before posting. Thanks for the heads up.

Here’s the link: KD 20mm (External) x 17.1mm (Inner) Copper Ring Adapter for 17mm Circuit Board - 5 PCS

Using it in a couple of SK98 clones with new drivers and stars. Didn’t like what it came with but like the SK98 esign. Which is odd because when I first saw the SK68/98 I thought they were butt ugly. They grew on me :slight_smile: