So they sent me the wrong bare tube. I complained and they sent a replacement. The replacement is identical to the one they sent originally. They are both wrong. I am not happy. BangGood starting to be BangBad especially with the quality of service I’ve been receiving.
Yes, I think the problem is not going to be resolved before the end of CNY….
I had the same thing happen with mine, first one bad, second one the same, bad.
If we look at it like the entire 400 or whatever amount was done at once and shipped to Banggood, then none will fit that are ordered prior to them pulling the lot a couple of weeks ago.
I know the new lot is yet to be made, and when it is, I will get one shipped to make sure it works on the bare BLF A6 light I have.
I do think it is not fair to attack Banggood over anything but the acceptance QC, that was not done and the entire lot looked to be bad. With the variable shipping times and methods, pretty much anyone getting a tube that was ordered over two weeks ago when the tube was still on Banggoods site will get a “bad” one. Banggood pulled the item en mass and is working to get it re built to our specs, so they do deserve some credit. At $5 each, this is not a high margin item and I bet this recall/rebuild is costing them any profit they may have made. This is a BLF item, so they are just trying to do right by us…
Not if they’re paying attention
Take a look at what khas did with the bare tubes that didn’t fit the A6:
If you set for 300 responses per page that will be Group Buy Active >> Skilhunt H15 and more >> Review Inside
All they have to do is rename the item and identify which lights it will Lego with, and double the price.
Or wait til WE figure out which lights the “mis-made” tubes will Lego with, of course, that’s more likely.
Further down that thread, khas comments “It works on the H15 as well”
Whoda thunkit? Well, it had to fit SOMETHINGs
Yeah, I think that the threads are from a Skilhunt run… But they would have to at least anodize the tubes, and match the color and ensure the anodizing build up did not prevent them from threading before they would be defect free…
But that is actually good marketing to find another use for things that are byproducts… Chicken wings come to mind…
Chuckle. So say they were made for Skilhunt (but rejects, not taking into account that anodizing would change the size a bit)
then maybe shipping them off to folks here was the first “chicken wing” attempt to get rid of them another way
“Hey, I know some people who want bare tubes …” — some guy who didn’t understand the problem, hypothetically
We’ve never had anyone on BLF who could actually explain how threading is defined and checked.
Given that I’d guess most China light manufacturers also find that area of education lacking.
Probably the people who demonstrate the ability to actually make threads to spec are all captured by big industry building atomic power plants and fast trains and aircraft.
At least I hope so.
This is what I’m doing with my four bare A6 shorty tubes:
I lose money on the shipping, but hopefully, these tubes will find some use somewhere. 
Hank,
If you are trying to come across as a condescending needle stick, your doing a great job.
You know so much, yet actually contribute so little. Words are cheap, as are ideas and policies and anything else ignored or worse yet, not communicated to the people doing the actual work. More than likely, the wrong specs were given to the worker and the parts were made to the specs in hand. Managers cause more quality issues than workers and the process is controlled by management. Please look in those books on your shelf at the works of W. Edwards Deming, he did not like management, and more than likely would have disdain for someone such as your self, making quality in words and not action.
As smart as you portray yourself here (easy on the net anyway) I have yet to see that your super brain has found the thread measurement end of the internet and helped us here by posting it. Not the vaunted three wire method of checking the cross section of a threaded component, but something more mundane, such as gauge. Feel free to elaborate to us knuckle draggers and window lickers on the finer points of thread measurement and description, maybe some it will stick. Or learn Chinese in any of the dialects and then describe it fluently to those in manufacturing directly at Manker or wherever, I am sure you will be well received.
You consistently speak disparagingly of the Chinese as a people, this shows what kind of man you are, I thought all Californians were accepting and tolerant sorts. Bob Ross may be able to paint with a broad brush, but you are no Bob Ross. The factory did screw up, and Banggood did not check the part before shipping. Banggood has since then pulled all parts, offered refunds or replacements and will be getting a new batch made to the correct specifications and shipping them. That is honor in my opinion. Honor is fixing a mistake, not preventing one or opining on a policy you could introduce to “fix” an issue before it arises. Passive-aggressive hatred toward the Chinese as a people, due to the mistakes that happen during manufacture, is simply despicable. You do understand not every culture is like the one here in America, right? Hell, across America there are how many cultural differences? What if the worker HAS to do what the boss says, or they go to jail, lose their job, shame their family or any other thing that is culturally different there than it is here. How do your American policies and culture fix that Hank?
Keep on doing what you do Hank, I will retort when I feel you crossed the line. I do not tolerate your attitude as I perceive it here and will reiterate: Action speaks volumes, words are cheap, quit being a bigot toward all the Chinese due to a flashlight not being made right….
Now in spite of me sending a picture of the wrong piece they sent, they are arguing with me saying that they couldn’t have sent the wrong one. This is BangGood’s quality of service.
They can be fixed using a drill, a bolt, some tape, and a small triangular file. I use carriage bolts with the head cut off for lots of things. In this case wrap enough masking tape around the bolt so the tube just barely fits. It needs to be snug. Then with the drill turning slowly allow the file to ride in the thread starting 1/3 of the way across. Do both ends 10 times then flip the part on the drill and repeat. Starting part way across keeps the file from slipping at the start and messing it up. At some point you’ll want to spin the threads on some sandpaper to bring the thread OD down to 21.5mm but not at first or you’ll lose the groove. Then continue until the flats are pointed once more and it should be good. If it threads on but is still sticky, put a dab of silicon grease on the threads and twist it on/off several times wiping off the aluminum laden grease and reapplying it. This one came out smooth with less slop than the factory tube and took 1 1/2-2 hrs. 
The gaps are there because the threads were cut longer than the stock tube but both ends are fully seated. It will take some sanding on the ends to close the gaps.
Got my A6 (black) and EE short tubes today, and was positive supraised that they work without any issues. The EE short tubes works on EE X6 (of course) and BLF X6 (Al set, but also SS/Cu set, but then the color do not fit).
The BLF A6 short tubes works on my BLF A6 lights. All 7 lights is from the first batch from that GB.
So ordered some more tubes, so I have to all lights if I need to, or giving away a light or something like that.
I received my replacement bare short tube from BG and… wrong dimensions again. It’s a pretty long thread to read through…
So maybe someone has a short answer 
Is there any hope to get a correct bare short tube from BG?
I already ordered batteries and would like to use them.
Just a lucky guy or that’s a new batch in town?
Anyway, still waiting my 2° A6 short tubes.
Not hungry anymore, just sit & wait.
The black ones are good the bare ones not good unless you are willing and able to fix them.
So I have a replacement bare one coming that sounds like it won’t fit. So will a black one fit all “generations” of the bare light?
Rufusbduck , not the case. I ordered my black anodized BLF light in December, then ordered the black anodized short tube Jan 7th. Threads work in the tailcap, but not the head. Oddly, my standard size tube works both ways in both ends. Banggood already sent a replacement which i received two days ago. Same exact problem. Now I have two anodized that don’t fit. I am going to try the thread filing method you had success with. Where did you get such a small file?
Interesting, I had only heard that some of the anodized versions were too short, my condolences. When I get home I’ll take a few pics of the set up which is pretty simple showing the file as well. I bought it at a local surplus/salvage yard but it should be available in some hobby stores. Before you try this first confirm that the thread pitch is the same and it’s merely too large in diameter. If you’re doing this to an HAIII tube you should strip just the threads first with white lightening or drain cleaner as the ano is much harder than the bare aluminum. I.e., mask off the part you don’t want to strip and place it in a plastic cap with ~3/8” cleaner for 15-20 minutes and check it. The ano will be removed from the inside unless you plug it first(a synthetic cork fits). Do one end and then the other then find a comfortable spot where no one will complain about a small amount of aluminum filings. Allow a couple hours for the filing but that will depend on how much you need to remove and how good the file is. That’s how long the bare unit took but after removing the ano there may be less material to remove.
My short ano tubes fit the bare A6 host just fine so merely stripping and polishing a short ano tube is another option for some.
Mine the same. It’s ok at tailcap (both way) but not the head. I’m talking for the black ano version, not the bare one.
Thanks for the reply. No luck for me here. I did as you had done and got a small hobby file and rigged a drill with a zip tie on the trigger at a nice slow speed. I worked at it for a while and clearly reduced the diameter. It began clear at least for my anodized tube, the pitch of the threads is incorrect. No amount of filing even allowed a tiny bit more turns beyond the quarter turn it initially allowed to be threaded.
So frustrating. I may have to buy an Astrolux with the short tube included because I have had my fill of waiting weeks for parts only to be disappointed repeatedly. Alternatively, I may put that $30 towards a Olight S1…
First things first. If you’re going to try this you have to verify the tube you have has the correct pitch. Do this by placing the tubes thread by thread so that the threads interlock. If they do this,
then proceed. If not, you’re SOL. Next, a few measurements. My stock bare 18650 tube has threads which measure ~21.5mm OD on both ends. The shorty ano tubes I have that do fit the bare tube are ~21.45mm both ends and a bit sloppy while the bare shorty tubes are ~21.7mm so it’s not going to take a ton of removal to make it work but it has to be as even and consistent as you can keep it.
Here’s how I set it up. A bolt or rod chucked into the drill with enough of a tape wrap for a good snug fit. With the drill turning at a slow speed(you can go a but faster as you gain the feel of it but I’d still keep to a modest rate) hold the file with one flat under your thumb so you can monitor it and keep the file from rocking side to side and start the file ~1/3 of the way across the threads. 
The turning drill will guide the file out of the threads. Always cut going out of the threads. Repeat this ten times for each end and then flip the part
on the rod and do it ten more times each end. The count you choose to repeat doesn’t matter as long as you stick to the same count throughout each of the four sets of passes. After 1/2 an hour of this take a block with some 120-180 grit paper and spin the threads against that to bring the thread OD down to 21.5mm. Under magnification it will look like square cut threads. Resume work with the file and when the threads are triangular again you should be about there. From that point on reduce your count number switching ends after each count until both ends thread on. Don’t force it, if it feels like it might just go add some lube and try it but still refrain from forcing it and getting it stuck. Once it does thread on all the way work it in with some lube wiping the dirty lube off and reapplying new until you’re satisfied with it. Here’s how it looked when finished. 
Just by counting the threads you can see that the shorty tube is threaded longer with the result that there is a gap where it joins the head and tail sections. 
This gap can be eliminated by filing or sanding off the necessary amount. Going too far in this case us not an issue since the bare threads are conductive and contact with the end of the tube is not necessary.
I’ve only done this to one tube and never tried it before so no excuses, it ain’t that difficult.
Here’s how it looks after a bit more fiddling. 