[1900k edition is in!] WTS: 1900k-5800k 5mm LED 95+ CRI

Take a pack if true. Nice candidate for my remaining unmodified Tubes as they have a pad for the large cathod iirc.

Good to hear. Like those lights very much.

There was talk about missing LVP. Not sure if I should put one of them at stake and test it.

Good news,

Thailandpost has opened up the service for several more countries. You can check where you live here.

The caveat here is that the shipping cost has been raised for some countries. For example, U.S. and Canada’s shipping cost is now at $9 $10, as should have been $4.7.

2300K in the Osram Nightlux:

Shameless ad: Very sensitive to movement and light, on-time 10 or 60 seconds. Really good night light. Unfortunately the innermost compartement containing the LED PCB is glued and takes some patience to open. Everything else is screwed.

Found this product under other brand names.

This one looks neat, I need to get me some of these.

Osram = Sylvania in the US.
Product name is more generic, “LED Motion Sensor Light”

I like the idea and especially the mod, but I hate the 3xAAA format. (I know this is a cheap homeowner/consumer product so 3xAAA is the “right” design choice for such a product, but I just fundamentally don’t like it, lol.)

Works with Eneloops, although with greatly reduced runtime.

Or perhaps add some tiny buck/boost converter in it with ni-mh.

It is one PCB including LEDs. A PCB you stare at for some seconds and copper traces will come loose. Well designed in concept and firmware, but really s* electronics. Had to rewire this and that :person_facepalming:

Oh yeah the infamous FR1 boards. I love it when the copper trace blew open and spew all the hot flux and solder over my face every time the iron touches it. Luckily I’m wearing glasses so it didn’t get into my eyes.

Haha, well from a design engineer perspective, that sounds like it was designed just about perfect for the “cheap as possible, basically disposable” intent of this light! Obviously we at BLF want different, but we aren’t the intended market for this light. :SHRUG:

For the sake of identifying my LEDs I now add the SKU numbers (check on the OP).

Also Introducing RWN05-32K-C-EX. A love child hybrid between Yuji's 3200k and Nichia GS.

You get some of the High CRI and tint from Yuji's, and you get some of the power handling from Nichia GS (though not quite as good).

Here's Djozz's test compared with my standard 3400k R9080 and Nichia GS 4000k Rnn.

This one is much more expensive than the other 5mm LEDs. The price will be $9.5/20pcs (or $10.0 incl. handling fees).

The other SKU intruduced is RWN05-45K-B, the 2nd batch from the manufacturer whom I asked for 4000k emitter with 4500k CCT. The first batch ended up 5000k. This batch is closer to 4000k I asked, but ended up at 4500k instead, as tested by Djozz. The price will be $8.0 incl. handling fees.

CRI test pics are coming later.

Pics for RWN05-32K-C-EX (images taken by Djozz)

( ^ tint measurements were in the hotspot with led at 20mA)

Wow, those look nice! Are there any special requirements for running this 5mm LED at the higher end of its permissible amperage range?

To run (any LEDs on the menu) at high current, it’s preferable to:

  • Drive the LED in constant-current mode: As the LED heats up, it will take more current in a feedback loop until it either
    a) finds a thermal equilibrium or
    b) enters the thermal runaway and die.
    Constant current driver will ensure that the current will stay at a managable level, or at least keep the deterioration rate at the constant level (as opposed to rapidly)
  • You may need to enhance the heat dissipation on the cathode lead: The only way thru-hole LEDs can realistically dissipate heat is by thermal conduction through the cathode lead, where it connects to the base that the die is attached to. Based on my educated guesses, you could try:
    a) If the board has large ground plane where LEDs are to be soldered on, you should shorten the legs as much as possible to minimize the thermal resistance to the ground plane.
    b) If the board doesn’t have the ground plane, you may need to keep the legs as long as possible to maximize the surface area instead.
    c) Put the airflow on the back of the board to cool the ground plane.

Well, well...

I guess i need another package. Let's try those bada55 newcomers.

RWN05-45K-B (4500k 5mm) Tests by Djozz (20 mA)

The specs on both of those new emitters look great, especially that higher powered 3200k! Although the 3400K has been reported to perform well in the Nitecore Tube, this model should be slightly brighter and provide more assurance of a long life.

I wonder if Nitecore would be open to buying some to do a special edition Tube CRI, or Klarus on the similar Mi2…

Payment sent for 3200!


The US store Costco currently has 8-packs of “Life Gear” brand colored LED glow sticks for something like $20. They’re a bit larger than it seems like they need to be, but otherwise seem like a good value.

They are a bit unusual in that they have a flashlight on the opposite end of the glow stick. As expected, it’s a probably 6500+ K cool white, so I immediately started replacing them with warmer, high CRI LED’s. My kids are definitely enjoying them.

Here’s three of them with the flashlight end replaced with a rngwn 2300K, an rngwn 3400K, and a Yuji 5600K. There is a cheap reflector around the LED that causes a slight lopsided hotspot, but overall, the replacement LED’s are a huge improvement.

It took me a few minutes to figure out how to get them open. A screw locks the diffuser in place, so children won’t accidentally access the button cell batteries. The lens on the flashlight end seems to be glued in place, but it turns out a solid tap of the head against a hard surface will cause the entire light assembly to drop out the other end: