4.46A and just 1072 lumen, well, it’s quite low for the famous brand with high bin led
Same happened to me when I opened my TK41, completely scratched the head, I was using pliers that were like half a meter long xD
Maybe there is some soaking in hot or cold water trick to make the metal loosen?
I used rubber and bare aluminium with half a meter long pliers the aluminium was pressed through the rubber at the end
Heated the head with heat gun,
but was to scared to use a gas lamp to get the bezel to a few hundrend degree celsius very fast so the heat wont reach a dangerous level to the rest of the light,
But its dangerous for the glas and orings
I really want to get a U3 NW LED inside
I have the good fortune to be able to use the lathe, it’s big 5” jaws hold the head while I attack the bezel. I spun it up and used a Ronson butane torch to heat up the joint, my big Boa Constrictor rubber strap wrench wouldn’t faze it, was getting damaged by the grooves in the finned area, so I used the big 16” Channel Locks and did the damage to the bezel. It was still very tough to get off, but I was willing to cut it off and make a new bezel if necessary. 
Output is low to give run time. They worked at getting high throw numbers to make it a viable search light, as such they wanted run time, hence the 3A limitation. Most manufacturers seem to want to stay at or below the emitter max, with the diffusion of the reflector the lumens output is actually pretty good. Could be better with a mirror polish, but…
As far as taking too large a step with my sandpaper, I’m very well rehearsed in polishing techniques, learned to polish guns some 20 years ago. I also know that aluminum clogs pores of the paper, so by going longer in the stroke count I effectively took the 220 to 400, the 800 to some 1200 and the 1500 to over 2500. Newspaper usually yields a higher polish that cloth, as it is a tighter grain structure. I don’t know of a cloth or anything else that you can run over bare aluminum without leaving micro scratches. Clean your reflector and see… So this is why they use the vapor deposition in the first place, it’s the best way to get a near perfect finish. If you touch it, with virtually anything, it’s scratched. I can polish copper (softer than aluminum) and you’d look at it and think mirror finish, fire it up with a high power led point blank though and the micro stuff shows up. The reflector is a challenging piece, due to that brilliant ember at it’s base.
10x for your “BLF”review m8
its clearly sounds to me like a : mod a C8, get 150k cds and be happy 
Yeah but the C8 doesn’t cost too much. 
Looks great!
I managed to open my Nitecore P12
I used a burner to heat the Bezel to about 200-250°C it started a bit to smoke after 25 seconds
The force was a lot lower than I failed on Temperatures around 100°C
As I had nothing to wrap it at 250°C I used my pliers without any rubber and scratched some more of the anodisation off
Pictures of the inside following and I will order me a new XML2 when the light did not took damage by heating it so much
First thing I noticed I unsoldered the LED by heating it or it ripped of the Contacts from the board as the head came of with the LED ans centering ring
The reflector is screwed inside the head
The o-ring ist toast
Aluminium board
That’s a LOT of Red Loctite! Nice job getting it apart!
Why do they have to lock it so tight?
did the finish on the bezel
I did grind the anodisation away with dremel, because it was not able to get it with sandpaper
unfortinually in the black gap there are some scratches from doing so and I didnt want to sand it down so deep
They offer a good warranty, they can do this by keeping us out. If we bugger it up trying to get in, warranty voided. So it’s a win win for them, either keeping us out or tossing the warranty altogether.
its the same on the driver
it is rock solid quality when you see a sysmax one in parts
but the driver is as well glued in the tube so if you want to mod it you destroy it before you get it out of the P12 host
the thin aluminium board is a bit disappointing as there is also directly behind the center of the host a 4mm hole drilled
I ordered a XM-L2 U3-3D LED on nogtigon MCPCB, but too bad I cant get a current boost,
but thankfully I get probably about 15% more lumens and a nice 5000K NW beam
Is this light not that good? So far there is no user review yet.
There are no reviews because it’s really new, just released.
It’s a great single 18650 thrower, one of the best.
Some might actually not like it for the diameter of the head. It’s a small light, shorter than the C8, but with a larger diameter head it’s not as easy to clip in a pocket.
Throw is excellent. I can see a barn at a neighbor’s 610 yds away with it.
The ano is a great Type III, very hard, when I had it on the lathe and cut a new surface on the bezel it made a smoke from the ano being cut, only the really hard finishes do that. Color is consistent in the ano in all the parts, even interchangeable with different mode tailcaps and maintaining color. (I’ve swapped my tailcap with the SRT6, as it has tail standing ability with protective wings on either side of the rubber boot)
The battery check is pretty cool, hold down the side switch and then engage the tail button, when you release the side switch it will blink out the voltage… a blink for each volt, a pause, then a blink for each tenth. Then it goes into moon mode.
It’s somewhat different, having the tail switch, as it’s on/off at the tail then modes on the side, so some of the functionality of Nitecore dual side switches is not present. I think they did that as a tactical thing, an effort to simplify maybe?
I really like it, the design style, build quality, fit and overall finish, top Nitecore quality. Flat top cells work with it, where some of the others the flat top doesn’t work, they require a button top. So I like that about this one as well.
I’m thinking I may forego the battery check lights in the side switch and go ahead with an FET with ramping, bump power to the max. Not sure, I’ve done that on most every light I have, might be nice to have one with the factory driver. lol
Dale,
Thanks for posting your impressions of the light.
Here’s a couple of shots comparing the Nitecore SRT6 to the Nitecore P30 (modified) I used the little Canon S90 and manual settings to underexpose and show the actual hot spot. The SRT6 has an XM-L2 emitter under a 25mm reflector, while the P30 has the XP-L HI under an 43mm reflector that I polished.
The SRT6
The P30
The picture on the wall of my sons room is comprised of 6 1’ square aluminum panels, so it’s essentially a 2’ x 3’ poster. The one square foot tiles give a good indication of the relative beam size. The SRT6 has a magnetic control ring for variable output, dial it up, pretty cool. They call it the Night Officer.
Yeah the anodisation Nitecore makes is very well, to get it off needs a lot of force or chemicals