20K lumen ? POT LID LIGHT Water Cooled ( built during C19 shutdown ) FINISHED

Hi all :slight_smile: ( NOTE: This is NOT an entry to the Old Lumens competition )
I started building this light during the C19 virus slowdown earlier this year because I could not work and was bored to death. I want to thank ” grin ” for the inspiration and idea for this type to make, also thanks to JasonWW, Texas_Ace, Lexel, and Matt for helping with the electrical, driver, and led issues. There were other contributors too, Scallywag, MtnDon, kiriba-ru, Unheard and probably more BLF members that answered questions about various modding problems that helped. This was an educational experience that I enjoyed. This light is all hand made, no machining, built with scrap aluminum from previous jobs and parts and supplies purchased online. Waiting on parts delayed completion.
The main idea was to build a small budget reflector light similar to ” grins “, so after much research I found a glass Pot Lid that may work, and if it does, after I win the lottery, will purchase a $270.00 spotlight reflector for it. There are many pics so I will post some every day until it is all done. Note: The light is completed now, I was not going to post anything if it failed. I had to mod it after the first build worked OK.
Some specs
12 inch diameter pot lid.
Scrap aluminum from a helicopter company I worked for previously, we were permitted to have it.

1st build
1 x XHP70.2 @ 6V at 10A = 5500 lumens roughly.
2 x 18650 battery for 1 5v cooling fan.
2 x 18650 30Q for the driver.
1 x XHP70.2 P2 1A 6v led.
1 x 10+ Amp capable MOSFET 17mm LED driver from Matt at Adventure Sports Flashlights.
1 x 5v fan 2510 small 2 pin computer GDStime 25mm x 10mm mini WD B9

2nd build.
4 x XHP70.2 @ 6V at 25A = 20K lumens ? roughly, maybe, I don’t know.
4 x 18650 for accessories
4 x 18650 30Q for driver
2 x 5V 50mm Cooling Computer Fan 5010 50x50x10mm DC
Black 12V DC Brushless Small Water Pump Submersible Motor Pump 280L/H
2 x LM2596s Buck Converter DC to DC Step-Down Voltage Regulator Power Module with LED Display
1 x DC 100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt
4 x XHP 70.2 P2 1A 6v led
Maxtoch 4 x led mcpcb
MT09R driver from Lexel
30A switch
20A switch
Black M4 12mm Waterproof Momentary ON/OFF Push Button Round SPST Switch
14 gauge silicon wire
18 gauge silicon wire
22 gauge silicon wire
26 gauge silicon wire
Acrylic Plexiglass Sky Blue Plastic Sheet 1/8” Thick
Copper fittings and tubing.

The infamous Pot Lid

After painting

Special mirror paint, very fragile, used the whole can, several coats.

Painted it gloss black after the silver to give it a better reflection.

Added 2 layers of painters tape carefully, once you started, it had to go on flat, no wrinkles.


smart idea :smiley:

That is a great idea, i might have to grab one at the thrift store too.

So whats the use for the blue painter’s tape? And the thread gage tool? And what’s the diameter of the lid?

I need to edit the first post with more details. It is 12 inches in diameter. The blue painters tape is to protect the silver paint from scratches. The thread gauge tool was just laying there after I removed it from a box of other tools I had brought home from work in case I had to find another job. At that time we did not know if we were getting paid or not, we later learned we would.

i’m glad to hear it.

Looking forward to more pictures.

Grin’s big reflector thread is more contagious than corona-19…

Thanks guys, :+1:
Here we drilled the SS lip mounting holes.

Mounting the shroud that I thought would help keep the light in the light, fail. :person_facepalming:

This is a stiffener for the light mount and handle.

Light mount.

The aluminum solder/welding rods are tricky to use with a small propane torch.

Here are the legs with holes for the .25 dia copper tubing.

Read for paint.

Love your work CNCman. This build is reminding me of someone else here I called crazy. :slight_smile:

Hey, is that the lid off the pot from your profile picture?

I am happy someone has been inspired by my ramblings. The mirror looks like a brought one :+1:
They were originally made with an iron die. A piece glass substrate was placed on top then the whole thing put in a furnace and heated until the glass sagged into the die. Then the key was to vacuum it so that the glass was sucked tight against the iron.
Would it be possible to CNC a die from a computer model? It would probably still need polishing by hand to get it prefectly smooth. There is a company who resilvers and restores antique mirrors so the part is sorted just need the sbustrate.

No, here are some pics of that profile pot full of Crawfish, sausage, corn, potato, garlic, lemon, onion, and Zatarain’s crab/crawfish boil. :+1:

Notice the piece of aluminum under the burner, it was used for the pot lid light ! LOL
It was painted on the under side, was going in a CH47, the guy cut it too small and it went to the scrap dumpster.
CHI let us take scrap home, so there was plenty of pickings dumpster diving. LOL



I ain’t sure of what this’ll be, but WOW!! :o
And I have a word in my mind: aliens!! This will spot aliens :smiling_imp:

Great work CNCman :+1:

Gosh them craw-dads shor do look good!

Here’s a picture from work of the vacuum chuck on the Moore M40 CNC diamond-turning lathe—40” of travel in the x-axis for turning large optics, usually aluminum or copper.

And a project from last year for a parabolic aluminum mirror, no silver needed. It will be recut soon to change the prescription slightly for testing.

” grin ” you should know that your work has the attention of many here at BLF, Thanks for sharing your fun with us :smiley:
Answer to your question, YES. We have one mold maker employed with me and he provided pics of his work. It is common to get a 16 rms finish on a CNC mill, polishing to 6 rms by hand afterwards, and that was 15 yrs ago.
One of my 2 concerns for the pot lid was its shape, it is not the quality needed for this use. The defects in form are very visible and the beam reflection is not great. I expected this, but hoped it would be functional and it performed better than expected.
The second concern was light loss from light entering and then exiting thru the glass itself because the mirror surface is on the back of the lid.
One day I will spring for that 12” spotlight reflector for $260.00.

Wow !! That Moore CNC is a very precision and expensive lathe. I did not know cnc’s could finish machine optical quality and not need a coating to boot !! Thanks for sharing :sunglasses:

Thanks “MascaratumB”. :slight_smile:
This is just the body and mirror after paint. More work than it looks. The hope was long range but we are not there just yet. I am still trying to tune the beam, right now it’s more of a flooder, but I hope to tighten it up more. :+1:

Thanks “MRsDNF” , You guys are our inspiration to do those crazy things LOL
This is the spice that helps give BLF its flavor :wink:

When corona is over there’ll be a get together at your house right….?? We can enjoy the beautiful view, feast and then shoot down aliens when it gets dark :laughing:

Great project CNCman :+1:

Thanks “pinkpanda3310” :wink: You guys are the best, we are just trying to keep up :beer:

Rolling the .25 dia copper tubing into place.

Now some copper head parts for water cooling the led.

Center tube and water inlet for direct flooding contact behind the led.

These are ears for maintaining center position.

Added a small reflector to try to keep the light in the mirror and not in me eyes.


Here we will finish the first build with 1 x XHP70.2 @ 10A 6V.
Battery box from .125 plexyglass.

Bending the plastic was tricky, many mistakes were made and the lessons learned were helpful on the second box.

Mounting bracket.

Forming the driver cooling tube with a heat gun.

The driver is mounted in the handle.

Here is the test at full power at 10 amps 6v. Unfortunately I thought I took some beam pics but not. :person_facepalming:
This is the end of the first build. After this test it was clear more light was needed.