Notice in the post I replied to he asked if the same input power would be roughly the same Heat. This is true and what I said.
I also said that the constant current driver will have a bit higher lumens, which it will but the difference will only be noticeable at low output levels. At medium to high modes the difference is not worth talking about.
This is all fact and I stand behind it.
Even at lower modes the difference in heat will not be nearly as bad as many people think. Most would be hard pressed to notice it without some kind of equipment. The most noticeable thing will be the reduced runtime. Although even this would be hard for the average user to notice if under normal circumstances of a little here and there and not a non-stop run.
Now my personal preference is that I prefer PWM drivers since the tint does not change as much between high and lower modes and the tint as a whole is generally better. Although this is still fact based, many simply will not care about that.
I used a generic butterfly XM-L2 centering gasket, which perfectly match the emitter and the reflector hole.
The beam is well focused, quite a big hot spot of course, and with the typical yellowish corona around it
TA and I are both “right” just putting more emphasis on different points, no sense going further really.
The H03 is extremely low mass host but if you are managing with a FET+N+1 driver in it now at the modes you want it will probably do fine at similar levels. On turbo and with a high drain battery it will cook you much faster, no doubt about that.
The question asked was relating input power to heat, not heat to output. so you are off base. But in his answer TA also addressed heat vs output by explaining that with the same heat the lumen output will be different, so i don’t understand why you’ve challenged his answer.
Can you tell me which bit of his answer is ‘something other than what it is’ please? And what trade-off he is pretending doesn’t exist?
Best guess, 17.2A on the 3V should be comparable to 8.6A on the 6V, and according to Djozz’s and Texas Ace’s 6V test that equates to around 4700/4800 lumens, and they tested warmer tints.
So, a lot How long before it’s too hot to hold?
Those are raw emitters that were tested. In a light you have losses from the reflector, lens and driver. Also, those tests were before djozz and TA calibrated their spheres with Maukka’s lights. So maybe closer to 3,800 to 4,000 lumen? Just a guess.
How do you plan to power the XHP35 in the S41? It runs at 12V and the S41 is a single cell light. So you would need a boost driver but I do not know of any boost driver powerful enough for that.
I thought that 3V XHP50 is something like a unicorn, something rare that you’d not find anywhere. I got Xanes 1287 zoomie that has XHP50, but one of the segments is dark. So I decided to replace it with XHP70.2 that I had laying around. On the MCPCB in the 1287 is written “6V”. I put there new MCPCB with XHP70.2 and… nothing happened. I’ve checked it with multimeter and it was 3V, not 6V. So I’ve checked the removed MCPCB with 3V and it lit. Xanes 1287 uses 3V version of XHP50 in that cheap zoomie. It was quite a surprise…
How long before it’s too hot to hold?