All 3 of mine have the dreaded Yellow Dot ( + hair) in the middle of the hot spot when white walling them.
The triple C8F being the worse of them……
I should of said they don’t suffer from it as bad, it is still there, it is just not as noticable in the lights I have had CW emitters in. Since I try to stay away from CW I don’t have a ton of experience with them.
So I checked the cells when I put them back on the charger. One was still at 4.2, while the other three were at 3.9.
Charged them back up and got 15,972 at startup and 13,424 at 30 seconds. Pulled them and ended up with all cells discharged the same 4.0v.
@KawiBoy1428
Where did you get the copper part for the X6? Is it from kiriba-ru?
I got 2 EE X6 hosts this week. So i am looking for mod options.
No Sir, their from the BLF Limited Edition KRONOS GB. I swapped out the X6 copper pills for the Black Aluminum ones. I couldn’t stand the stock battery tubes, so I re-thread some A6 tubes to fit and offed (sold) the KRONOS X6 lights.
I like them better with the full round tubes, the way the should of been… 
That is an amazing upgrade in lumens. I wish I had a second Q8 now to play with. I still might consider swapping on the one I do have. It is a very nice light stock, but we always want more.
I added a temp plot out three minutes on turbo with the q8.
Way too hot on current settings.
Better put that bad boy in the Gun Safe…. or go buy one to put it in…
Yeah, that’s quite the torch, in more ways than one.
A while ago I tested two S2+ lights up to almost 200 F and kept them there for 15 minutes and they were fine after that. So your Q8 will probably run happily at that temperature, your hands is a different story.
Small and packs the power… got it.
safe? check!
To keep everything in the safe categorized properly, I’ll put it next to this little fella: http://www.300blktalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=147&t=97617 He wears a silencerco omega
Better yet, I need a pic rail mount that’ll hold the q8. Wonder if larue makes one… then I can store them as a unit.
I’ll have to run the same test with my s2+. Guaranteed that thing gets to 200f faster. I actually thought about breaking it down to use a different emitter. I still might. Kist not enough mass to dissipate.
This is concerning. Is one of your cells not making good contact? Are you trying to use flat tops in a Q8?
Well I got the 1D reflowed and installed:
I measured 19 amps on a Golisi, lumens at start: 4200 (TomE)/3700 ANSI, throw: 108 kcd
This is running a FET+1, SIR800DP FET, extended 20 AWG LED wires, 20 and 22 AWG bypasses, UCLp lens.
To me the beam looks not much different from the XP-L2 V6 3B it replaced - yellowish corona, CW spill.
The XP-L2 had a throw of 116 kcd, and I measured 11.8 amps, 2060 (Tom E) lumens at start. Tail amps is high for sure - this is from my old notes.
The slight loss in throw is fine compared to the gain in lumens. Of course it gets warm quick but not instantly. The C818 is a hefty light. It has a 55 mm head diameter.
Aren’t 20 AWG wires only rated to about 13 A?
Yes, but don’t forget that we are using a very short length of wire, meaning the voltage drop across it is very low, meaning power loss is very low.
Also, the solder helps heatsinking for such a short length to dissipate some of the power loss to the spring,
What about the LED leads?
Same thing.
I think there might have been something on the battery +. Maybe some lint. These are vtc5a with brass buttons soldered on, with silver solder, then the brass filed down until the solder shows. Very pronounced button on them.
The 20 AWG LED wires are about 50 mm in length or so. 13 amps at what voltage, and as Blue points out, at what length? What is the LED rated at? What about the stock tail power switch? We are always using LED's beyond their rating, and power switches for sure. Their are many here that like dual switch lights (e-switch and power switch) but I find the power switch the point of weakness, specially for these high amp mods. Our best available switches are rated for like 6 amps, and those are big.
This Omten switch is a common, better switch used in flashlights and it's rated at 1A at 30V (this is the common spec). We've had switch failures but I would also say we have many high amp modded lights out there for years that haven't had switch failures.
Here's a wire chart: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wire-gauges-d_419.html
We mostly use stranded wires, which are rated for less amps than single core.
That's a concern for sure. Maybe you are not getting much pressure from the springs - hope you got bypasses in there.
He is technically correct about the 13A rating, the length of wire or voltage doesn’t really change much on the face of it. The only real change is the short wire can wick some of it’s heat into the mcpcb and driver.
All that said though, the ratings he is referring to are usually construction ratings for wires used 24/7 in enclosed spaces with normal plastic coatings. There is a limit to the temp the wire is allowed to get to in these conditions.
We use silicone wire in flashlights that can handle MUCH higher temperatures (up to 500c) and we only use them at high currents for short periods. The light itself will overheat before the wire has a chance to.
I have tested 20awg @ 15A long term and while it gets hot for sure, nothing worrisome for a flashlight. Even 24awg handled 15A for longer then most flashlights could.