well, how to change print speed of first layer in CURA, i use cura(because it’s the first slicer i use, and never had issue with it)
Under “print setup”, switch to “custom” and hover with the mouse over the “speed tab”:
Klick on the little gear icon that pops up and enable the “initial layer speed” setting:
You can do the same if you go through the “Preferences -> Configure Cura” menu but this one is a bit more intuitive if you want to switch on a setting quickly.
oh, i see, thanks for your help
So, i had decided that i will build it and only show the end product but, we will do this differently now.
It seems that i have finished the design for a rough test, slowly i am comfortable with the new CAD program.
This should be 3D printable, and so i will spend the next days printing out the parts, and that is why i post this model now:
Every time a part comes of the build plate, i will post it here and you can see how it turned out.
And in the end there will hopefully be something that somewhat resembled the 3D render.
Here is to hoping i got all the tolerances dialed in right.
The whole thing will be printed in red PLA for the simple reason that that is the filament i print the most and am most comfortable with.
I have black filament for later.
The windows will not be as transparent as shown in the picture, i have clear filament for that but the nature of things makes it diffuse when 3D printed.
There were some thoughts about light guides and fancy things but at this stage, i just want to stop tinkering and finally have something in my hand.
So, simple windows for the LEDs it is.
The thing will be a bit big.
That is mostly due to the use of screws instead of glue and the size of the PCB i can make at home.
Here are a few cross sections too:
http://i.imgur.com/g8XDdPz.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/PL7KjC2.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ylGyPHy.jpg
Cool. I see now why you had to think carefully about the USB socket.
I used to have a bike light that was almost exactly the same shape (a long time ago; it took 2 C NiCd cells side by side). I actually found it so comfortable in the hand that it saw more service as a flashlight than it did on the bike 
Thanks!
In about 4 hours there should be the first set of parts, if nothing goes wrong:
That is all the internals and parts for the head.
After that the body will be printed and then the buttons, the body will take forever.
In hindsight, i could have tried out the time lapse feature of my printer controller, too late for that now.
The PCB was supposed to be mounted together to the battery, in the end i caved and went back to the “slot” that holds the PCB and the battery separately.
There were sooooo… many different designs.
In the end this one seems obvious but, hindsight is 20/20.
That flashlights are round tubes is a fairly obvious design choice but i always disliked round flashlights, slightly rectangular ones feel better in the hand and do not roll away.
So far, so good, the printer did slightly wonky things, i think he is too cold but the parts are OK.
Printed with a rough layer height since i wanted all the important parts done today:
http://i.imgur.com/Zkaq0kJ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/FbcGNO7.jpg
The battery fits, the screws are too loose, the lens as well.
But it is serviceable, so, i will count this as a win.
Next part is already printing and i think i set it to take a time lapse, i hope.
Today i am a filthy liar, i promised more in-depth pictures of the process but in the end i did not have enough time and just wanted to parts to be printed.
They are rough, especially when you take pictures this up-close, the printer is slightly under extruding i think and it is too cold, turned the central heating off yesterday and it seems that the printer did not like that.
Anyway, here you go:
I hope i took enough pictures, everything roughly fits, yay!
With these parts i can work, i would like to start tweaking and re-printing them but that will have to wait.
It looks like the PCB should fit, the battery fits and there should hopefully be enough room for the 8 cables that need to go in there.
The i printed the plugs for the LED windows too but since they need to be glued in and i printed them in red too, it does not make sense to add them.
The next step, etching the new PCB.
Looks pretty decent to me. Rough isn’t necessarily a bad thing.
What an amazing effort. Love what your doing. :+1:
Thanks!
On the outer shell the rough print actually does make it pleasant to hold, nicely gripy texture.
Thanks!
You have no idea how much i want the circuit board done and finally be able to push a button and get light.
Some days, you should just stay in bed, i had three boards left, enough to make 9 PCBs.
First one, the mask ripped, unusable.
Second one, not enough pressure, i thought i could get away with it, my own fault.
Slightly splotchy etching on one side, no idea why.
Unusable.
Third board, splotchy etching on one side again, no idea why.
Forgot i did not have a suitable board holder for double sided boards.
Forgot my gloves.
Forgot to turn on the UV lamp, but was unsure, risked double exposure.
Forgot to make new developing solution.
Forgot to top up the water level in the etching tank.
Forgot to check the stir bars before turning it on.
Man…
Lets try to salvage at least one board of the last three.
IT IS CHARGING!
http://i.imgur.com/VN7Zgjk.jpg
Tomorrow i should get around to soldering the logic and LED driver, but those are the same as from the previous circuit, so they should work just fine.
After that i only got to make a new heat sink plate.
YAY!
So close. Looking good so far. Thanks for the update.
The pressure was mounting!
We have light, the whole thing seems to be working like intended:
Got to sort out the button situation, misjudged something a bit, got to design and print new ones that work with this.
That is pretty darn neat!!! Good job……… :+1:
Thanks!
There was a lot of jumping about once the thing was partially together and finally producing some light.
The light output and pattern is OK, it could be more but i am happy with it:
http://i.imgur.com/hWxy1sX.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/zxzQbof.jpg
I think i want to print the head in transparent plastic as well, there is a lot of spill-light trapped in the head with the red plastic.