Bump
No one knows? I t
hought this was budgetlightexpertsforum.com ;-)
I'm not good at electronics, so I hoped someone knew how to test the specs of the pcb -I've got a multimeter. Maybe from looking at the components someone could guess the specs?
I guess the hope is that the existing LED's on the board have the same voltage/current specs as the new UV LED's you want to use. /straight swap, & all is well.
I'd fire up the board, & first probe an LED to see what voltage they are getting.
Looks like you could also adjust the current at R4.
If the voltage works out, then the next thing to do would be to remove an LED & compare the footprint to see if the UV LED will re-flow onto the pads.
I doubt if it will have any form of protection (apart from the reverse polarity diode), as it's meant to be run from a constant ~12v source.
A straight swap would be nice.
Thanks for the advice. To test the voltage -i turn on the light and measure on both sides of a led?
How would I adjust the current? Swap the component at R4?
Yep, just probe both sides with it on.
Looks like they are in series, you could measure the whole string & divide by 6.
You may have to lower the current by increasing the resistor at R4.
Thanks! 
Just tested the Led's, and measured the forward Current at just under 700mA. Well the 3 remaining that i didn't fry with my DMM is 700mA ...
And i found an easy way of desoldering the Leds:
Just by eyeballin the led's on the board, I thought they were 3535's, but as I started preparing to reflow my 3535 uv's onto the board I noticed the size difference. So much for eyeballin ...
I think I'm ditching the existing PCB altogether, as i think I'll be able to fit six 20mm PCB's to where the original PCB was - and there is room for a driver in the "trench". Unfortunately the convoy reflector in the image was to high...
It looks like you could scrape away some of the trace mask & be able to reflow the UV's onto the board.
Personally, I'd go in the direction you are heading now. Either screw or Ceramique the stars directly to the body, & set up an ATTiny based driver for the current you want.
Is that reflector from an S2, or S2+? The S2+ is shorter than S2.
it's the s2 reflector from Simon/Convoy. I have 9 reflectors just waiting for a mod :-)
By Ceramique do you mean gluing the star to the body with a thermally conductive compound?
I've got a Nanjg 105C and some extra AMC7135 380mA - I think the driver is ATTiny based - but I'm not sure as it is the 1-mode driver. ATTiny is "the brain" that controls the modes of the driver right?
The S2+ reflectors have a total height of just under 12mm, if that helps. The stock reflector molding would probably be less hassle, & more durable for your usage.
Sorry, I meant Arctic silver adhesive, not Ceramique. JB weld would be fine also.
Yes, the Nanjg style driver is what I was referring to.
Edit - that driver you linked does not have the ATTiny MCU, so is just a straight current limiter, without any of the features, such as Low Voltage protection, modes, etc.
You'll need to remove six of the 7135 chips from that board, which will then run the LED's @ 760mA.
Forget that - It's Australia day & I've been drinking :beer: !
Cheers m8 :-)
I did not know the 1-mode Nanjg 105C does not have Low Voltage protection. But of course - that's part of what the ATTiny does.
Is it possible to make the 5-Mode Nanjg into a 1-mode without having to reprogram it -and still have Low Voltage protection? None of the "star soldered" methods seem to do that. (googling it as i post)
No, you will have to reprogram. RMM will be able to supply one ready to go, or maybe someone near to you can flash it for you.