No, your thinking of pigmented or additive colors, like paint. Mix blue, red and green paint and you get brown.
With light, it is different. Blue red and green make white! Lol
See my my avatar that is blue and pink? Those are 2 different color leds. If you kept the green and red it would just look like green on one side and red on the other.
It is cheap to order new leds in a variety pack of colors. Then you can do both leds (looks better) in your own custom pattern! :+1:
Just like with the Q8, the switch light functions the same and has programming options. You can program the mcu to make it stay off. Or you can have it on, but under certain circumstances you can turn the light off and the switch light will stay off. It can be a little confusing. If you program it to be on, then you can also set it to blink the battery level on the switch led only. At least on the latest version of NarsilM v1.2 or 1.3.
I don’t know if the switch light blinks at the same time as the main LED blinks for low-voltage. I’ve never had that situation.
Haha, yeah I was thinking mixing paint. :person_facepalming: I should have known better, thanks for setting me straight and the info.
I’m assuming it will come with the latest version NarsilM 1.3?
I’m real excited about this driver, all I need now is to find out about fitment of my + contact ring, it looks of it should fit, I’m assuming the orange part in the drawing is bare copper, and that looks like most of the bottom side.
You can do it without solder paste.
You should be able to take some of your solder wire and make a coil from it. Depending on its diameter will determine the number of coils you need. Then set it on the driver and put the brass ring on top. Then just use one of your small torches to heat the ring, not the driver. When it gets hot enough, the ring will drop down flush to the driver and you’ll see the liquid solder come out the side. Just make sure it’s perfectly centered before you take the heat away. That should do it. Then you can dab it with a damp cloth to cool it down a bit faster if you want. That’s optional.
You can probably use one of your irons to heat up the ring, but you run into a small problem. In order to get good heat transfer from the iron to the ring means that you’re going to get liquid solder on the top of the ring where the batteries rotate. So after the ring is soldered you’re going to have to clean up the extra solder or else the batteries will rub across it. This kind of pain in the butt extra step can be avoided if you use a torch.
Adding a little extra flux always seems to help, but you could probably get by without it. I like the felt tip style applicators over the bottles because you have a little more control over the amount that comes out and how it’s spread around.
I can’t really comment on most of the stuff you listed because I’m not really familiar with it. That 862D+ soldering station looks pretty good. I’ve got a 995D myself. It seems all right.
You can do it without solder paste.
You should be able to take some of your solder wire and make a coil from it. Depending on its diameter will determine the number of coils you need. Then set it on the driver and put the brass ring on top. Then just use one of your small torches to heat the ring, not the driver…………………………….
You can probably use one of your irons to heat up the ring, but you run into a small problem. In order to get good heat transfer from the iron to the ring means that you’re going to get liquid solder on the top of the ring where the batteries rotate………………………………………
Adding a little extra flux always seems to help, but you could probably get by without it. I like the felt tip style applicators over the bottles because you have a little more control over the amount that comes out and how it’s spread around……………………
Thanks! This helps a lot in case I don’t get the rework station before doing the ring swap. I suppose I’d use the thicker wire (.062) instead of the .031?
I think I’d prefer to use an iron over the torch if that’s possible.
If I use one of my Weller guns I have many new tips that are un-tinned, so there wouldn’t be solder getting on top the ring, if that’s what you meant.
I guess for this I’d need to use the higher wattage 100-140w or 250w?
Beamo, certainly try the irons first if you gave some that are untinned. It’s hard to get heat transfer through an untinned tip, but since you have so much power it might work.
I’ve got this #312 pen and it works great. I really don’t know much about all these different flux formulas and such. What you linked to might be fine as well. All I can say is that adding a little extra flux makes a huge difference in getting really nice soldered joints.
I think Lexels big heat gun technique is pretty advanced and not what I would recommend for the first time. Maybe it would be good as a last resort if your big irons or small torches couldn’t get it hot enough to melt the solder.
There’s really no need in heating the entire driver because as soon as the solder liquefies, that thin copper layer on the driver is going to almost instantly get up to the proper temperature.
Ok, yeah that does make sense, but I wonder if I should have him build one with the glue anyhow, just in case.
I would have to imagine the 250w or 300w iron would get it plenty hot pretty quick, I’ll try that for removing the ring from the old board and see how quickly it de-solders it.
I think I’d be more comfortable using an iron than the torch, but I did have a thought of pre heating the ring with the torch immediately before I set it on the board, then rest the iron on it, just to help get it up to temp quickly.
There is a possibility I’d get the reflow station before I attempt this, I assume the reason hot air is best is because it can more quickly heat up a larger area or component like this? And with that small air gun there wouldn’t be the risk of de-soldering any topside components?