Dang, had to order for $6.50 shipped!
Yup…got another one inbound
It’s weird, when I click the pay with paypal button…nothing…but I right click on it, open in new window works just fine…odd
That site is pretty buggy, doesn’t surprise me.
OK…I have fixed the board
Now sharing
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/cAnYRg5N
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3D Render
Files here
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6ueyqyereeylna1/AAAbl_afTPQB9AXNs1GmUTtRa
2 layer board of 1.5x1 inches (38x25mm). $7.40 for three
Had to correct that daggum SOD-123 to SOD-323
I couldn’t resist anymore I ordered two :bigsmile:
Question?
Would any of you folks be interested in a TP4056 charge controller on the board so all you have to do is tie in an external 5vdc to charge the batteries? (even though I have been told it is not a “safe” practice)
I think I “might” be able to move the ATtiny and controlling hardware down far enough to be able to clear enough area to put the TP4056 on the board, w/ led’s to show charging and complete status [I am also thinking of limiting the charge current to say 500-750mA to keep the heat down on the TP4056, HKJ said it got a little squiffy and hot at 1A (I know from personal use of the tiny TP4056 boards that a 2.2K at 500~mA it charges perfectly and you can put your finger over the chip and it’s warm but no longer burn your fingers hot
Any ideas on how to wire in a 105c or ak45 in the simplest way ? ( to give it more customizable modes like the Qlite-version with moon light mode and no strobes) only problem is the switch is a momentary unit and not a clicky.
Per the image here
Pins 1, 2,or 3 tie in the PWM out on the ATtiny (pin 6) and it should drive the FET (on pin 1) and provide the same UI that is on the ATtiny…that is if the ATtiny has the SW tied in from SW to pin 2 and has a momentary firmware installed
moT shoehorned one in here
Looks like you could even do a resistor mod, just solder a small wire over the 3 in line resistors above the red box in the 2nd image, just follow the trace to the LED+ wire
I really like that idea and kind of makes it much easier to gift to others, considering the battery format is not common outside of enthusiast circles. I would be able to get these cheap and gift to others who can then charge them with protected batteries.
How does Oshpark work with those boards you are drawing up? Do we order directly from them with some sort of reference number from you?
You just click the link, buy the boards, solder the components on
(you can strip a Regular Nanjg 105C or on the OSHPark thread order from digikey the individual components) and of course have to program the firmware
This is a modding DIY more or less
I just created the board if someone wants to build them for themselves
OK, not a TP4056, but a MCP73831T (max current is 500mA…sorry)
2 layer board of 1.5x1 inches (38x25mm). $7.40 for three
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/33oO52aX
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Files
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/tcm9yes4h73uaj4/AABLnlM36BHcy2Dsf1tU-V4na
5vdc in on the input jack, it will charge both batteries w/ proper Li Ion charge pattern and have a red light for charging, green for charged, and the red light when running
Can someone check out my work…please
Hi guys!
I have one of these and switch on directly to insert the battery It seems SOS mode :~ the switch does not respond only works in that mode when insert the battery … I can rescue the driver in somehow?
Many thanks
Check switch path . Just checked mine if I press and hold switch mine goes to SOS. Maybe button boot is jamming and holding switch or maybe check / desolder switch wire at driver board.
Thanks for your response, directly unsolder the third cable to the switch, (only 2 wires of the led) and still doing the same 
Post a picture if you can but… Try looking for a short on the trace to the MCUs switch input.
From the solder pads where the led wires connect, trace the one from the switch (labeled key on mine) trace it back to the control input pin ie. pin 7 on mcu chip (my mcu is labeled cx2812 its the one furthest from the led wires) looking for solder blobs for short to ground. Maybe ohm it out first between battery neg and key/switch wire looking for short. or Maybe isolate pin 7 by cutting trace at place where you can easily splice back with solder later. Bout ill i can figure for now.
This is is based on the FETted driver Though the driver with the many amc7135s… would be similar trouble shooting i supose.
Did anyone else get their driver with actual 7135s? (I thought I read somebody did but couldn’t find it anymore).
Anyway my latest $6.50 headlamp came in with 4-mode (HMLS) and actually used 6x 7135 chips. Nicely regulated at 2.1A, with acceptable PWM at low. What a nice deal!
My 2nd one at $6.50 came in just like the first one…with the single 8 pin FET…haven’t disabled the flashies though
Still want to build me some boards that I designed, but I don’t think they will work (someone said the ground and bat+ feed to the head and thus the switch is backwards)
Budget is stupid tight right now so I can’t order them…fooey
_ the _ got one
Id be curious where switch lead “OS” goes. I suspect straight to pin 5 through the via from the under side of the board as it has a pull down resistor to V- along with a cap connected to it to same pin 5
They will work, you just need to change the code so that the pin is looking to be pulled up to switch instead of pulled down. I would also add a 4.7k (or similar) resistor between the switch pin and ground.
I have built several of these headlights like this, the problem is that by default they actually switch through the LED- wire, which doesn't work since if the 7135s are turned off there is no connection to ground! So what I do is swap the wires around on the switch so that the switch wire connects with the LED+/BATT+ wire, which is always connected, then change the firmware to look to be pulled up.
Thanks. That’s the post I read.
Weird that the claims the PWM for the two drivers are the same, my old 3mode has much more visible pwm at low such I cannot stand. The new driver is at least acceptable to me (still not high enough but not too bad). And it doesn’t whine too.