Can you meter the 7135 chips for continuity to tell if they are good or not?
I checked a bunch of new ones and from ground to vdd, 95% of them read about .384, (meter set to 2M), but a few show open circuit, so does that mean the open circuit ones are bad?
I’m trying to make a chip tester with an led on a 10 mm star JB welded to a clothes pin. I think the pins might be too short to make contact in a breadboard. One side of the clothes pin gets 3 grooves with copper wire epoxied in them. Led + ( goes on to B+), led~~, and ground goes to B~~. I have the pin cut to chisel ends and the grooves done and later will epoxy the wires and mcpcb. Adding in a meter will verify output. Might be able to do it using an old driver board and just touch the 7135 to the pads.
How... what? There's only LED-, ground, and the PWM signal from the MCU. Even if you short all 3 pins together it will just put the LED into direct drive (bypasses and goes straight to ground) and the MCU's output is internally protected and can be shorted with no damage (apparently). There's no connection to B+ so there's no way to make a direct short that could fry anything.
Why can’t you test them, you may need to design a rig to allow one chip to be inserted and removed easily and hook in a multimeter to check that your getting 350 (or 380) mA of current draw.
Question…if the control circuit was toasted, could these in effect stay on? My driver worked fine before…the smoke that is…now when it “should” be off its very very low operation (light is still on)
I think I need to get the V1.1 and build at 24 chip one (12A is a bit high for 3 XM-L’s)
7135s don't turn off completely in the '0%' level with the momentary firmwares when using fast PWM/19kHz... you have to change STAR 1.1 from 'TCCR0A = 0x23' to 'TCCR0A = 0x21' to make it work with 7135s.
Sorry, yes, 1.0 is the momentary, 1.1 is the clicky. Still the same explanation, both versions are using 0x23 as default. Both will work like that with FET drivers. 0x23 will work with 7135s only in the clicky switch version because you have a mechanical switch to physically break the connection and what happens in the 0% mode is irrelevant, since that's not the way you turn off a light with a clicky switch. But with the 7135s and a momentary switch light it must use 0x21 or else it will do exactly what you described, the LEDs never turn fully off.
Per Cereal_killer he just puts his thumb on it to hold it down and voila…programmed
Would an equivalent of the 7135 be able to test them without having to solder them down by running voltage thru them tied to an XP-E or XR-E at 350 ma to see if it runs w/o flickering?