The thing is that 18650 li-on cell are very optimized. It stores x3 more energy, but weights only double and can output more watts. Cost same as rare and unpopular 14500. L shape design have better weight balance what is important if using for running and not only. L shaped have better heat dissipation which is good for li-on batt. Zebralights and Skilhunts L shaped headlamps have most optimized and advanced designs in this planet ;))
There is already a lot of good right angle headlights. We need one good t-shaped small. Something like panda 2r or boruit d10.
T shaped cant be good as L shaped by the law of physics;)) BTW properly made āLā it is NOT L form. Its āIā or just straight line, like H04 orā¦ whateverā¦ Manker E03H II if you like 14500.
For now biggest challenge for Sofirn-Wurkkos is to rip off H04 design and sell it cheaper 
Lots of good āIā shapes already, especially in 18650. I is too long. T is more compact. It would barely be a T with a shallow triple optic.
Iām using an Olight H1 Nova tonight now and that end button is annoying. (16340 and plenty of run time)
The only āIā shape headlamp I like (that I have) is my Tiara A1. The button is in the right spot.
I have plenty already, so in order for me to buy, it has to do things better. Not just another one.
Light weight is key. Then you donāt need the 3rd, over the top, strap. I havenāt found an 18650 version that doesnāt need that 3rd strap.
Same old arguments every time. Different strokesā¦
FB
Yes, this is a good idea, and I see a place for a AA headlamp as well as a 18650 or higher capacity model. AA is common and itās easy to use many replacement AA cells for longer runtime, so Iām not so concerned about the lower capacity.
A Wurkkos competitor to the D25L would be great too. This is the model to beat.
I have the Wurkkos HL20 but I find I donāt use it much. The 21700 is really heavy to wear. The dual emitters are neat, but I find that sometimes I want more brightness than the flood mode can provide, but less spot than the spotlight emitter (and high CRI), so I end up turning on both emitters, which then drains the battery more quickly than Iād expect. I find the D25L much more pleasant to use both for the brightness levels and the beam profile and battery life.
As for T or L shape, I see a point to both. I like T for headlamps. L is good for versatility to use as a worklight with a magnetic base, although thereās no reason a T couldnāt have that too. The most important regardless of configuration is to have a good beam profile that is wide enough, but offers enough light intensity at the center to a moderate distance, eg. while working on a car.
Yes, lots off L shaped headlamps, but only few (maybe only 1) is made properly.Try H04 or H04mini if you havenāt yet. It have optimized design and side switch.
hi guys, i have something idea like this, two source of beam, mix red and white 95CRI CSP LEDS
The Skilhunt H04 is already too heavy despite the H04 RC being very light weight for an 18650 lamp at ca. 48 g + 18650, i.e. it moves around and is not stable on your head with movement.
I used to have a Silva headmounted lamp which has a tiny head with 2 LEDs + wire going to 2x18650 battery pack that you can put in your pocket or attach toyour belt. That is much better. I didnāt keep it because of 1) cool white light, 2) I didnāt think I would need it anymore after finishing house renovations and 3) it used clearly visible PWM. The cables of the Silva were pretty stiff but still better than the H04 in how it feels on your head.
An AA headmounted lamp may work but I would be interested in a lamp similar to the Silva but without visible PWM, with 4000K high CRI LEDs (SST-20, 519A), with supple silicone wires, using waterproof connectors (for charging, extension leads etc) to the battery pack.
Wurkkos, that will be nice, if it will have good ui.
Something like:
1 click - on/of
2 clicks- turbo
3 cliks - red mode
Hold - brightness change.
Something like hd15, but red and white work independently and have brightness memory for every light color.
And i swear you, please ad a 200-250 lm brightness, or that, than can light for 7-8 hours.
Wurkkos, I like the look of the sketch you posted, but I have no use for red LEDs. Please make a version with UV LEDS, and include an option for a strong magnet. And do keep the exact same triple 4000k LEDs already in the TS10.
Sylvaā¦ wahahahaā¦overpriced low tech same as Petzl or Led Lenser. But yea, must admit they have good headbands .
No idea if overpriced but that is not the point: Iād like to see something like the Silva I had, but better. 2x18650 in a separate battery pack would give 2 hours of runtime at 10W or 7 hours at 3W which means a light you can seriously use for night time work, and for a small head how good the headband is is almost irrelevant, you would hardly notice it with a more supple cable than the Silva had.
During a recent storm I was outside setting up a generator. It was a light rain but very windy so the small raindrops were moving closer to horizontal than vertical. The first headlight I grabbed was 4000k with a wide beam profile. I had a wide brimmed rain hat on top of the headlight. After a few minutes I couldnāt take the back scatter. Every single raindrop is lit up as they are flashing by in front of you. I went in the house and switched it for a different headllight with 3000k hi cri and a very similar wide beam profile. I had them both set at a similar power level at probably just under 200 lumens. The back scatter was approximately cut in half. 5000k is even worse and Iāve had them in the rain and snow and fog. The point is, keep it at 4000k or less or Iām not interested. Itās very easy to get new lights and use them indoors or in good conditions outside and forget why warm leds are so much better.
Iām confused by this discussion. According to some, only 18650 make sense, so the TS10 should not have been a success.
The reason Wurkkos was challenged was because of the success of the TS10. The original poster even said build us a TS10 headlamp.
I think the 4000k led and triple optic used make a great headlamp beam.
Why is the TS10 such a success? Build on that.
- small and light weight
- nice bright and smooth beam
- great tint and CRI
- low price
- lots of body and aux led color options
Follow this same model and youāll have a winner.
The only major change I would make is the driver. I would require AA support and prefer a regulated buck/boost driver.
FB
I think the design needs to be simple and clean, i'd do this;
1 Thank
One of the biggest reasons it was popular was because of the UI and thatās the thing you want to change. The biggest reason it was/is popular is because a whole lot of people have not come up with a convenient and comfortable way to carry an 18650 light. Or they have determined that they donāt need one. They need a light one to five times per day for a few seconds to less than a minute at a time. Yeah, yeah sure thereās going to be some exceptions. A handheld light is going to benefit from some degree of a hotspot in the beam. A headlight as far as Iām concerned should not have a hotspot. You can move the handheld hot spot light around very quickly and easy. Itās a pain in the neck to constantly have to move the hot spot around when itās on your head to take in the whole field of view. You canāt take that basic design of the ts10 and turn it into a headlight without making it somewhat larger. But most people are not going to carry a headlight on their person every day anyway. So what really made the ts10 popular is not relevant to a headlight. Itās not really the size and weight of an 18650 headlight that makes them uncomfortable. Itās the mount sitting on your forehead that in most cases doesnāt have any sort of cushioning. A few months back I added a cushion/pad to every headlight that I have and they are all very comfortable to wear for hours at a time. My running days are long behind me, so I can sympathize with those people a little bit. But with the pads Iāve come up with I donāt think even running should be a problem. I use some of that orange ShamWow shammy material attached in different ways depending on whether or not the top strap comes off. Feel free to experiment with other soft absorbent material of your choosing. Once the argument of comfort is taken out of the equation I see no good reason to go with less than an 18650.
No. Iām confused by the fact that many people want to change almost everything that makes a TS10 what it is when the original poster asked for a TS10 equivalent headlamp.
I can easily carry an 18650 EDC or headlamp, but that is not what I prefer. I prefer smaller and lighter for my pocket and on my head.
For taking the dog out, or walking to the mailbox, I prefer a larger flashlight.
I do want light weight in a headlamp. I do not need high lumens so therefore run time of 14500 (or eneloop) is just fine. I do want the beam of the TS10. I do want Anduril UI.
Adding AA and buck/boost does not take this away. See Sofirn SP10 Pro. Basically change the shape and use the Sofirn driver.
Think Acebeam H40 with a better clicky, SP10 Pro driver, and TS10 optics. That would be about perfect to me.
There are plenty of 18650 headlamps on the market. There are a few 14500/AA headlamps. Duplicating any of them will not get lots of sales for Wurkkos.
Was the Lumintop HL3A a big hit? There is your 18650 version.
This is my opinion only. I acknowledge that others want and need different solutions. I think most of those solutions are already covered in the market.
FB
That is where the problem is, they duplicate/copy someone's design, not making their own, ZL has no problem selling their AA headlamps. But you can not copy their design, i mean you can, but it will either cost as much, so no one will buy a copy for the same price over buying trusted brand, or wont be as good.
Interesting design. Iāve been waiting for this for a long time. if you add a bunch of flashing modes, then it is perfect for a bicycle, electric scooter and so on. as a front and rear flashing marker light. or you can make a special bike version. Oh yeah !! give me two!!