I see it totally working, have a 750 lm with 3 csp leds each on there own mcpcb, a nice moonlight, ore maybe even 2 csp and one red emitter, what are your thoughts Wurkkos?
Hi Wurkkos. Really I prefer AA/A headlamp instead lithium on my head for safe reasonsā¦
With dual Led adjustable CCT 1800+4000k would be awesome.
Can be made 1700/1800k csp cri 90 Led?
Leds on the center, imho not a fan of angle headlamps.
Iām definitely a fan of the design and will buy it 
I prefer AA/14500 or 18650
I like this.
hm, yes, UV is a point too
365nm, not 395nm please
What is your main use of UV? Is it safe to wear it on your head
Ask 10 people for their opinions, and youāll get probably 38 opinions back. 
When the TS10 was first announced as a 3-up 14500 light, I was really skeptical. Like, you use triples for higher power than one single emitter canā¦ emit. How would that work with a dinky little 14500 light?
I was happily proven wrong. :laughing:
I can see a simple side-mounted headband, ie, a regular headband but the ā10 mounted on the side, like those āturn a tubelight into a headlampā headbands made for the S2+ and such. As long as youāre not using it for close-in work where the light-coming-off-from-the-side would be an issue, it should be fine, no?
That said, pushing too much power through the light without having a hand to wick away excess heat might make it overcook on a headband. Also, a 14500 isnāt exactly the cell to use for bright light and runtime.
I just used my ā10 around the house for a while, rarely more than minimal to moderate brightness, and itās now sitting at 3.6V, about ready to be topped off. Similarly, when power on the whole block went out a few years ago and I was using my GTmicro just to see the damage, etc., by the time I went back inside, it was almost completely spent and needed to be recharged.
Someone who goes running, hiking, etc., and wants a bright light but not the weight of am 18650, is probably going to be disappointed at either the low brightness for the sake of runtime, or the lack of runtime when cranked up.
So the user-case issues need to be determined first, Iād think. Headlamps are generally used way differently than handheld lights.
ONLY if it includes a built-in ZWB2 filter.
365nm UVLEDs, even the ālow visible spillā types, have a hideous horrible ghostly greenish-white visible spill.
At least 365nm UVLEDs leak into the violet range of spillage.
Thatās why I prefer the older WK30s (395nm) vs the newer ones (365nm).
Also, I think it was the Sofirn SP32A-UV that was a 365nm UV thrower. Great light, but I had to essentially āglueā a 20mm filter to the front vs replacing the 19.5mm front-glass with a sanded-down 20mm filter. Plus, I didnāt want to bust it trying to undo the thread-glue.
Seriously, at this point, if a 365nm light doesnāt have a ZWB2 filter, Iām not really interested.
My original intent was to guage the possibility of incorporating the positive attributes of the TS10 into a headlamp design while maintaining the 14500 size footprint. UV is not one of those characteristics. I also understand the limitations in capacity/ run time. Heat at full throttle would be an issue that would require some consideration as well. My use cases would be short duration (>30 minutes of intermittent activations) at lower output levels. Example: When Iām running the barbecue grill or tending the fire pit at night I clip the TS10 to a hat brim, but it is less than ideal. I truly appreciate these CSP emitters and the beam quality of the 10, and thought it would be great to have it available in a head mounted format.
I suggest you try one of the 2 way clips, such as on the Olight Batonā¦ works MUCH better than the stock clip, for use as a Hatlamp:
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Iām with you. I go through usually 2-3 18650s in a 1x18650 headlamp when Iām working in the garage at night, if I cut them off around 3.3V. I lose track of time working on stuff and spend all night out there. I work evenings so I do everything at night and sleep during the day so ive got a headlamp on my entire waking life pretty much, outside of work. And thats in addition to the 400W of overhead lighting and not including the 2 or 3 18650s or 21700s with magnetic tails stuck to the hood of the car or where ever. Anything smaller than an 18650 would be pointless Iād be changing it before I even get my workspace set up. I want bigger, a 21700 headlamp. But on the flip side, if itās too bulky I end up smashing it against parts of the car when Iām working in a narrow space or sliding underneath the car. 21700 would be the max I think.
I used to go with two 18650s in parallel with a BMS, even tried 4 18650s laying flat in parallel but both were too bulky and heavy and needed everything spot welded together and cells had to be brand new and perfectly identical and I couldnāt just switch them out when they died with another random one from the bin.
Tried 3 eneloop AAAs in series but they died in seconds and running them as bright as I wanted they would get way too hot. Used 3 eneloop AAs for awhile and still do sometimes because they lay flatter than an 18650 but theyre way heavier and you gotta spend too much time charging and balancing them.
Goes without saying anything alkaline is pointless and shouldnāt exist.
And no silicone headbands. Or at least make the head able to swivel a bit or something idk. Itās hard to make those reliable they always end up loosening too much or breaking off. Maybe some kind of bearing on the flashlight itself?
Red lights are pointless rather have just extra floods and the beam. Red can gtfo
Just copy the design of the Skilhunt H03, H04 or Zebralight H53, scale it to 14500 or 18350.
It needs to be small and light.
There are a lot of right angle light which are big and heavy making them useless as headlamps.
~ 3A buck driver with true moonlight modes.
Anduril 2 ui. Not optimal for headlamps, but better than 99% of the generic UIās.
Tactile crisp switch.
IMHO one high-cri Nichia 519A with a 45Ā° or 60Ā° TIR.
No onboard charging. Keep it simple and cheap.
When going with 18350 offer a 18650 tube sold separately.