Quick lumens test with the LG M50 cell…
M - 1
1 - 19
2 - 95
3 - 186
4 - 526
5 - 830
6 - 1504
Double click from any mode goes to a 2650 lumen Turbo. There are also quite a few blinky modes.
Pretty conservative but well received… Titanium does not conduct heat well at all so in this light the conservative power makes sense.
Color rendering is quite good, I used level 5 to light this photo of my son… printed on high grade metallic paper. Obviously it’s an old picture, 14 years on my wall. These Nichia’s bring out colors very nicely.
My daughter, ten years ago. Also a high quality metallic print. Also lit by my new DF1 Maeexru.
Looks good to me!
( yes, she’s actually blond like my son but… girls!)
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Do you know how the auxiliary lights turn clockwise and counterwise water flow?
Thank you for your compliment. And your son looked so good when he was child. He is so cute. I guess he’s very handsome now.
Clockwise and counter? No, I have been trying to learn it’s functions.
She is so beautiful!!!
In the first step, press the flashlight 10 times in succession, and the red light will light up.
The second step, wait for the red light to flash 5 times, press lightly, and the green light will flash 1 time.
The third step, wait for the green light to flash eleven times, then click the button, and it’s done.
Our auxiliary lights can also change colors.
I told everybody, the pictures on the web site dont do them justice.
I’m failing to see what stepless dimming does. Or how to work it.
I have found everything else I think. Maybe, is there a way to dim the Custom function?
If the Custom function is left empty will the light come on in Moon or a saved level instead of the auxiliary level?
Ok, figured out all the options.
I am considering making a new elongated copper pill that will show a band of copper between the head and battery tube, sure it would make the light longer but it would give the heat a way out. Drilled holes aligned with the base of each tapered flute in the Titanium head would look good and help disperse heat.
Think I have some copper bar stock, hmmmmm… not much time in front of me. Surgery in a month.
Annyli? Could you look into doing this with brass? It would sure enhance the lights ability to hold power output as well as beautify it!
So if the brass pill screwed onto the head, instead of into it, and the battery tube screwed into the pill instead of the head, that’s what I’m looking at. The pill would be longer and exposed to air, both much more heat sink and an escape route.
Ordered a piece of Silicon Bronze, will try to get it done in a timely manner.
… and that’s why we call him Dr. Frankendale. A shiny new item arrived, and less than 24 hours later, he’s already got a plan for how to modify it. 
(specifically, by sticking extra metal in its neck … it’s kind of a recurring theme with him)
I guess it’s just what I do.
I’ve wanted to anodize it since I saw it, can’t help it.
Recurring themes and all that.
Interesting that they claim to use Omten 1288s. The maeerxu examples I owned had the worst mushy switches if any of my lights.
The type of solid metal button over a rubber boot over a mechanical switch is just problematic, or has been in every light built that way that I’ve seen.
Reylight does a good job imo
Convoy just takes a different approach to the metal button with 1288 lol
I think I have 7-8 of these lights — most of the switches work good – That’s why I shelled out the $20 for the Tool to remove the switches ( longest’ smallest needle nose pliers didn’t work) I’m gonna make something happen for the better
I even put a couple drops of mineral oil around one-- it helped some
