I worked my but off on this light, again, and don’t know if I got anywhere or not. Well, I know I solved a glitch and have more reliable performance. But I’m not seeing the amperage the board should be putting out, albeit the light is very bright.
It’s sure bright at 97 yds!
It wasn’t exactly the switch that fried, it was the trace on the board that the switch is mounted on See the copper looking trace on the top hole off center? See the burned line where it fried? Doesn’t smell rosy
A look into the reflector, showing my little soldered pillars connecting the emitter.
The driver, spring bypass installed, 2 extra chips up top to go with the 3 Erik put on the bottom. Those 3 on the bottom made me work hard, as you’ll see directly…
Sunken McClicky. More work. Although it’s inset considerably further, it works out because my driver is taller from the copper I added to the pill
The copper heat sink, a quarter inch slab of copper for the SinkPAD to sit on, reflowed to the quarter inch slab on the bottom for the driver. I fitted each piece from top/bottom like a wedge, then reflowed them together so they’re not coming out. But I used a copper bearing solder paste that flows at 430º so I got it pretty hot, discolored the copper and made it look ugly.
It was sitting on the burner bottom down, so this area got a lot of heat and looks horrible, I cleaned it up before putting it in the light. The more deeply recessed area is for the stacked chips on the inside of the driver. Also cut clearing for the positive area to ensure it touches nothing.
And I’m tired! This was all done with a dremel tool. Some filework. Cut the switch retaining pill with a cut-off wheel then filed it square, needed very little file work actually. But I had to open it up for the McClicky, work the plastic components for the new switch, one thing after another. LOL