A really hacked mod job


It’s been quite awhile since I’ve modded any lights…, but I’ve had “the urge” for awhile now, and finally got a quiet weekend and started looking around to see what I had available. I’ve had a couple of TF-R2s (https://www.fasttech.com/product/1340200-1-18650-trustfire-tf-r2-cree-xr-e-q5-wc-230lm-5, but I bought mine direct from Trustfire) sitting around, still in boxes, so I figured I’d try to do something with one of them.

I also still have a bunch of Nichia 119s that I bought from Texaspro awhile ago (Nichia 119's for cheap (also Cree XLAMP-7090's)). I put these into several lights a long time ago, and I really like the warmish tint, and I also bought a bunch of the emitter boards that djozz made (Testing a custom made 16mm Nichia 119 copper core board (non-DTP), edit:sold out).

Ok, so got the host, emitter and emitter board. Next, driver… Driver?

Looking around, I didn’t have much in the way of drivers, some old original East-092, which I have been saving for a rainy day, and some Nanjg from FT, so I went with one of those (8x7135).

So I reflowed one of the 119s onto the emitter board, removed the original emitter board and driver and put the pill together.

But when I tried the light, nothing :(!

Then I noticed that when I shook the light, something was rattling, and opening it up, I realized that because the Nanjg driver has that tiny, short spring, the battery wasn’t able to make contact on both ends.

Just as a test, I put a small magnet on the 18650, and the light did light, so then I had to figure out what to do next.

I really didn’t want to put a different driver in (since I didn’t have anything else except for the East-092s, and I didn’t want to keep using the magnet.

So, I thought that I’d try to solder a solid post where the spring was.

But I didn’t really have a copper or brass (or any) post that would work, so then I decided to make a post.

I used 3 pieces of solid 14awg wire, and I soldered them together in a triangular “bundle”. As it turned out that bundled of soldered wires fit down the center of the driver spring, so I just shoved that impromptu post down the spring and put a bunch of solder on them.

Then, the post was still kind of too long, so I took my Dremel with a cutting wheel and chopped off part of the post and then flatted out the end of the post. I also found one of those small brass “tophat” covers that are used to cover tailcap springs and I soldered that to the end of the post.

Finally, I used one of those XML-to-XPG convertors (these, I think: https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007066/1576101-xm-l-reflector-to-xp-g-reflector-converter) which cleaned up the beam and also centered the reflector.

And, that was about it!

Lesson learned: Think through these builds better!

The Nichia 119 is not the best option as it has no thermal pad
Its rated 700mA

2.8A wont be good


Have you seen the graphs that djozz had for his board (the one I used is one of his)? I measured 2.8 amps at the tail cap on high.

sounds like a smart solution, any chance of a pic showing it?

I don’t know how “smart” it was, but yes, I will post some pics later.


Sorry for the delayed posting, but here’re some pics:

- From the front. It’s hard to see, but I have one of these XM-L-to-XP-G convertor rings:

and, here’s the small “rod” that I made with 3 pieces of 14AWG copper wire and an old spring cover:

Finally, a white wall shot (about 1 yd, high) - color is a little darker orangish than actual: