This is opposite of what this topic is about, but I think you were lucky you were not using new Sofirn SP35 with no thermal protection!
This flashlight has version with no temperature throttle, so it can go over 100 celcius, enough to start boiling water :sunglasses: And it also has e-switch!
Wow, that’s crazy to design it intentionally with no temperature (or even timed) throttling. Who’s the intended market? (Other than the OP. 
)
Please help me understand something that just doesn't makes sense to me, other than the OP's complaints. The JKK21700 that RJ claims burned his hand, has a high mode spec'd at only 800 lumens for both the SST20 or SST40. Considering its mass with a 130mm x 35mm aluminum body, how could 800 lumens possibly generate enough heat to get even close to hot, let alone cause a burn?
Since I never use any flashlight on high or turbo long enough for it to get that hot, I needed to test the possibility. So I grabbed my Sofirn SC31B, which is the one light I have that is as close as I could get to replicate RJ's experience. So I ran it on its 1,000 lumen turbo mode for a solid 20 minutes. Being that it's smaller, thus less mass, and possibly better heat transfer to the body, it should theoritically develop substantially more heat, until it becomes intolerable to consider grabbing. At 20 minutes, I used a laser thermometer to check the exterior temperature. It never went beyond the ambient room temp of 69°.
So, I don't get it RustyJoe. For now, I'll abstain from the ignorant side switch complaint & debate, the too lazy to lockout complaints, and a few other topics that are otherwise just sad.
If the light body is exposed to ambient air the heat will not get trapped. Try re-running the test but with the light wrapped in a blanket or sweatshirt.
This is getting kind of stupid now. There is no solution, life is full of risks. Some choose to take them some don’t
Was it still running at 1000 lumens? (Or close to it?) I don’t understand why the light wouldn’t have warmed up at least 20F or 30F hotter than room temp. 1000 lumens isn’t a pocket-burner, but it’s still enough power to get quite warm/hot.
SC31B steps down.
Yeh, absolutely.
My 1.0A or 1.4A (I’ll be conservative and say 1.4A) ’502 in a holster got hot enough that I felt that nice warmth wafting up onto my arm from the small gaps on the sides where the flap covered the tailswitch.
Taking the light out, it was almost too hot to handle.
My tailstanding S2+ (2.8A) did get too hot to hold after only 5-10min of tailstanding in free air. Had to grab a shirt or something to use as an oven-mitt just to be able to hold it long enough to bap the switch and turn it off. Still couldn’t pick it up for a long time after.
Y’know what? I learned to never let it tailstand that bright for that long. And to TCLO the beastie if kept in a bag.
Notwithstanding the SC31B's step down, or that I didn't have it enclosed to deliberately increase the heat generated, or I could have simply skipped mentioning the test, since I did for me, I still don't get how in the world a 130mm x 35mm light @ 800 Lumens, that was loosely carried in what I assume was a suit coat pocket, became so hot, that he burned his hand, that's all.
That’s why we love it so much!
I understand your concerns, but just want to point out/clarify that “tactical two-switch arrangement” is a bit of an oxy-moron. A “proper” dedicated tactical light will have a single, mechanical switch (with both momentary and constant-on functionality), and a single (max output) mode, or at least be configurable as such.
Typically not for “carry” duty/use any longer. Back in the “old days” it was common for LEOs to carry large/heavy D-cell Maglites in free-swinging light-rings on their duty belts (mostly for walking beats).
They would also make for good “batons” if the need arose as well. 
These days it is common for patrol LEOs to have a larger side-switch rechargeable (Streamlight Stinger, etc.) that lives in the patrol car, and used for traffic stops, etc. (usually configured to single-mode only). Anything that lives on a duty belt will usually be smaller single-mode, 1x or 2x CR123 lights with a single mechanical rear switch (and that includes WMLs, depending on specific department policy/protocol/approval).
Probably because his light had no step-down, nor any thermal control at all. 800 lumens puts out a fair amount of heat, if left unchecked for 20 minutes or so.
I have a Zebralight SC5w, which is a single AA light. It puts out 500 lumens (well, more like about 450). It can get too hot to hold after 10 or 15 minutes of tail-standing, if I keep stepping it back up to turbo (it has a timer of 3 minutes). And it’s just a 1xAA light.
Again thats a pretty horrible example that thing called the “Olight SR51” is not an EDC you pocket carry if anything its a light that sits in a holster or a large pocket in a jacket so in all likely hood it wouldn’t even be under the same constraints as a regular EDC being pocket carried.
I’ve witnessed the step-down in action before. So it worked. The coat pocket and crossed arms must have amped up the temps, and it was fully charged. It didn’t seriously burn me, but it did make me drop it and use a rag to pick it up. And when I tried to grab it nearly ten minutes later, it was still hotter than anyone would want to touch.
All of these ridiculous and janky side switches I see…I’ve passed on tons of lights because of them…and here I went with this and chose to ignore the risk. Well, here we are! And yes, it is my fault. But I’m not letting it go because switches can be made that don’t do this.
It’s a perfectly valid complaint. I’m glad you acknowledged your initial over-reaction calling for a ban.
I personally struggled with some pocket-activating flashlights. My Nitecore EC23 is guaranteed to pocket activate, so it is completely unused. My Zebralight SC62/w have never done me wrong. Initially my FW3A always activated when I was clipping it onto my pocket, so it was unusable until I did the o-ring button mod. My D4 lives on my computer desk because it can’t be carried safely.
My YLP Unicorn also hasn’t pocket-activated on me, but I like the zebras better (pretty good for lights from 2014!). My Spark lights also haven’t activated, but the SL6 isn’t super pocketable. I’ve been house-carrying the SL5 a lot since I got it and haven’t had issues.
Anyway, all this to say it can be done! But there’s a lot of lights that don’t do it right. I had some atrocious Thorfires and I’ve seen some awful Sofirn offenders. I’ve passed on a lot of interesting lights in consideration of this issue. I absolutely have and will continue to vote with my wallet on the matter.
I must be lucky, I can’t even get a fat light to turn on in my pockets.
Really wish there was better safety features, though. Pocket detection should be possible, like in a phone. And especially chargers should have temperature probes per battery.
We need to re-institute public floggings .
BAN the Quote button !!!
I like how Lightbringer bashes on the light and then starts bragging about a Ultrafire 502 .
This place just cracks me up .
Sorry to hear that, but that’s only your fault. I’ve never had a accident like that because I use or electronic or mechanic lockout always, and my most used flashlights are side switch.
Asking that something that happened only because of you to be banned sounds a little bit Karen-like, no offense.
It’s like asking to ban cars because of people having accidents because they don’t know how to use stick. 
maybe we need a list of Tactical lights that were NOT locked out, and
Never burned your pocket.
I will go first:
1. Jetbeam RRT-01 models with no tailswitch, (pre 2020)
2. Zebralights
feel free to add to the list
but please, Read the part above that says
that were NOT locked out
and
Never burned your pocket.
Buyer Beware, if a light turns on in pocket, that is caveat emptor
People in China have no idea how some guy in USA is going to use a flashlight. China factories cant possibly predict now to solve a problem for a buyer that does not practice due diligence in assessing the suitability of a product, for their application.