Acebeam L35 2.0 bezel and tube removal.

Is it possible to remove the bezel from the latest copies of the Acebeam L35 2.0 and if so how ? Mine is stuck tight, and I don’t want to damage it if they’ve started using a glue such as a permanent Loctite. I also don’t want to mark it even if it is just friction locked in place.

Also, have they started gluing the tube on the body? Mine doesn’t unscrew, at least not by hand.

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I opened 2 different l35s. 2. There is no glue. Just apply more force. It is better to rest the bezel on the rubber.

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Do you have any of those rubber grippers meant for opening jars?

I opened mine with 2 of those and hand strength. The main problem is just getting a good grip on the bezel. With the rubber grippers it wasn’t too hard to open assuming decent hand strength

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The bezel can be unscrewed very easily with a regular slipper/boot.

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Thank you.

I placed it bezel down on a rubber mat, gripped the handle with a towel, and the bezel gradually came loose. There is something on the threads, maybe just silicone grease, but boy was it stiff.

The DCFix film I applied inside the glass means there is a gap between the bezel and the head, I assume it’s still rain proof.

I don’t need to separate the tube from the head, so I think it is best left.

Thanks. Yeah they sound perfect, I’ll pick some up if ever I see them going cheap, useful for food jars too.

Why are you opening it? Emitter swap? Just curious since I have one.

I have put some diffusion film - D-C-Fix - on the inside surface of the glass. It smoothes out the beam a bit, creating more spill, at the cost of less throw. I do this to almost all of my torches, it makes them better for walking and general round the house use. Supposedly it only absorbs about 3% of the light.

I would not swap the emitter, the Acebeam L35 2.0 is near perfect.

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Ah I see! I plan to use mine primarily outside so it might be less worth it for me.

I agree this light is nearly perfect. LOVE the UI. It has everything it needs. The XHP 70.3 is a fantastic emitter. If I was swapping the emitter it would just be to a slightly warmer XHP 70.3. Like 5700k or 5000k. Probably not worth it though.

I too love the UI. I was a big fan of rotary switches, but Anduril and lookalikes put paid to that.

I’m surprised DCFix created a gap. Is it tiny, like the thickness of DCFix? If not, make sure the orings are seated correctly and the bezel is screwed down all the way.

It was small, I replaced the O ring with a thinner one I had in my bits box, and it now tightens down nicely. As far as I can see, the bezel has an indent on the outer surface next to the glass which houses and compresses the O ring. It is possible the original O ring squished out a bit between the bezel and the glass. I’m sure it’s still rain proof.

I’m ordering more D-C-Fix milky, and opal too. It is supposed to be 0.1 mm thick, but the stuff I have looks under a loupe to be more like 0.2 mm.

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The L35 only needs a 20mm circle of DC fix in the center of the lens if you are trying to clean up the artifacts.

No, as mentioned earlier, I want less throw, more spill. I do this to most of my lights, it better suits my usage, which used to be cross country running, and is now just walking.

That’s fair. Have you tried Cinegel 3020? Its thinner, but doesn’t have any adhesive.

From what I read it does not have enough diffusion for me. It would be great for a light with a slightly ringy beam though.

Out of curiosity, what made you pick the L35 if you wanted floody over the e70 or something? Seems like a waste of packable space to make such a giant head floody when you could have picked a tube light.

That is a very good question. I originally thought the E70 would be ideal. But I saw it had a plastic ring around the switch. They created a robust torch, carefully milled from solid aluminium to be as tough as a tank, and then added a plastic ring. That might sound odd, but it turned me off that torch. So I bought the L35 2.0. It is more throwy, but it gives me the option of using it as is, or adding D-C-Fix to the glass to get more flood. In practice it is superb. I find it really comfortable to hold, the power level LED helps me find the switch, my hand butts up to the head nicely, the UI is excellent and the build quality is superb. The advantage of the larger head is grip comfort and more thermal mass, meaning that it can sustain higher outputs more easily. I made the right choice.