acer laptop pack pull

also, is there a proper way to polish the batteries? the positive and negative base still have leftover metal thingy, and a last question, where can i buy those magnets to use for button top?

I’ve seen them on FastTech, but they’re not generally advised because of the possibility of migration into contact with the inner wall of the tube, which causes a dead short, which causes your flashlight to become a pipe-bomb. There was someone else who pulled an Acer battery and recommended a tiny blob of solder on the + terminal, but that in itself has the potential to go horribly wrong.

I believe that a very steady hand and a dremel are tie recommended tools for cleaning-up the cells.

Looks like the packs on ebay are all $30+

Not worth it considering you can get better LG D1 4.35v cells for less than $10 a pair brand new from fasttech.

Yeah, I checked right after I wrote that. :frowning: Ah well. :slight_smile:

In my experience with laptop pulls, in packs with 6-cell, 3S, 2P configuration, packs are rated as follows:

Packs that are 10.8V have individual cells that are rated at 3.6V (nominal) X 3 = 10.8V and have 4.2V cells

Packs that are 11.1V have individual cells that are rated at 3.7V (nominal) X 3 = 11.1V and have 4.35V cells

The 6000mah comes from 3000mah cells in parallel (3000 X 2 = 6000)

>>>>recommended a tiny blob of solder on the + terminal, but that in itself has the potential to go horribly wrong.

Yup, it can go horribly wrong, and you can shoot yourself with a gun also if you don’t know what you’re doing. The key is being careful and practice.

Use a dremel to remove traces of the spot welds, but truth be told, the dremel used on the 18650’s neg pole is just as dangerous as the solder blobs. So be careful. You want to just carefully and quickly sand down the spot-weld-detrius. You do +NOT want to dig into the metal of the actual cell, which is EXTREMELY thin. As long as you don’t go into the metal can, you are fine.

As for solder blobs, I have solder-blobbed probably 800 batteries at this point and never had a problem, but my solder blobs now definitely look better than the ones I did 500 cells back. Don’t forget, the positive poles are bult up and away from the actual battery, so you can get them very slightly warm. But NEVER too hot to touch. There is a bag filled with catalyst rolled up inside the battery can, so you do NOT want to melt or breach that thin-walled bag with heat. But batteries get warm, so if the positive pole gets slightly warm, no big deal. But I mean slightly warm. NOT like a pan on the stove.

Here’s how I do it. Stand the battery in something to hold it upright and keep the battery top level and flat. Hold the tip of the soldering iron like 1/4” off the battery. Feed the solder into the tip until the solder drop is about to drop off. Then quickly touch the pen tip to the battery top so the blob of solder is transferred quickly to the positive pole. Do +NOT heat the pole with the pen. Quickly remove the pen tip from in contact with the cell pole.

If you did it right, the solder blob will spread out like a rounded bump, not a freestanding solder ball. The bump will be smooth so it will not scratch the fragile gold-plated battery contact on the other side of the driver. Since you scratched up the positive pole with a dremel, the solder should stick like a rabid monkey without extra flux. Count off like three-4 seconds before touching the blob or it will still be liquid and your touch will mess it up. But after about three seconds, and you will see that it is barely barely warm. No way that small amount of heat transferrance hurt the battery.

But can you hurt the battery? You betcha. If you’re not good with soldring, try it on some bad dead batteries first. Practice until until you can get the bump happening on the positive pole.

Yes, magnets are a BAD idea. Just like the previous poster said, you could get a dead short. The short on the positive battery pole will tack weld to the tube wall, and you will have quite an explosion.

Make sure to cover the pulls with a second layer of clear shrink tube (available on ebay and for more on FT). It makes them look super pro and prevents any shorts from tiny tears in the original battery wrapper, which occurred during extraction from the pack. Plus, it preserves the original label, which is made from some bendy material which does not hold up well to battery tube insertions. You can’t use an extra layer of shrink tube on batteries destined for tight tubes like the S5. Leave just the original label for those.

This is the way I do the solder. There probably are equally safe ways. If so, I’d love to hear about them.

Dented batteries or ones with divots from the dremel on the neg pole, should be tossed (recycled) as unsafe.

Hope this helps!

Spot on, Ubehebe!

And I would add that a good hobby charger is indispensable in this ‘secondary hobby’ of mine.