One of the two LED’s red please, and the other one with a high CRI 4000-5000k LED 
Both behind TIR lenses would be very nice. I’d also love it if the USB (-C) port could be hidden behind threads like the recent diving lights, that looks really neat but I’m sure increases price/length/size. Other than that I hope an easy to use headband can be supplied with it. Powerbank functionality would be a nice bonus but not the end of the world if it wasn’t there. USB-C PD charging (correct resistors!) is a necessity IMO. No hold-for off please, stepped + ramping would be very nice with good moonlight modes 
Thanks for the suggestion. If you guys agree with Fescron, please give him a thumbup below.
First of all you have to decide that is purpose - specialization of this headlamp.
IMO, headlamp should be as light as possible, like for example skillhunt h03. I have other angle flashlights that I never use as a headlamp, for example jaxman e1.
Regarding dual leds design, I think that it would be nice if one of leds would be nichia e21a.
Edit: also please consider buck driver.
Yeah, agree. Our idea is to make a headlamp/worklamp, that more BLF members like. Just that, we will accumulate all the suggestions and finalize the product concept.
I mean if its used for caving you wont take same headlamp for running and vice versa…
Headlight-
- Very strong tail magnet.
- Large, lighted, switch on side of head, not the end.
- Neutral/warm, high CRI LEDs.
- USBC PD port for charging.
- Anodize color options: Green, blue, orange, purple, etc.
- Ramping UI. Anduril or the standard Sofirn UI will work.
- No strobe, sos, flash, whatever. Just steady, no PWM, light.
I don’t like big heavy 21700 right angle 90° headlamps. I really like the design of the Sofirn 25s. That style but a big lift in quality, better springs, better threads, better switch. I would be wrapped if the quality went up to to what Wurkkos produces with twin emitters with choice of high CRI and warm color temperature led’s. Like 2000k 2700k 3000k 4000k. About 1500 lumens would be good.
1 red, 1 white, 1 uv.
Good leds, not 5mm red and uv with one level and low output.
Probably tough to do all 3 on the host in OP. I wouldn’t buy the OP headlamp if not at least white and red emitters. I already have plenty of that style headlamp with just white….
I like the idea of a flood optic with a throw optic, with a dual switch design.
For LEDs, definitely LH351D 5000k 90 cri for flood (TIR) and sst20 5000K for throw (OP reflector). 1100-1200 lumems for the 351D and 300 for the sst20? You could add a red sst20 or Xp-g2 also. I am not a fan of Anduril on headlamps (fine for handheld) so maybe a simple stepped ramping or smooth ramping on this one? Suppprt for 21700 would be preferable also (Make it futute proof).
In this case, could you please let me know what kind of headlamp you want for caving and what kind you want for running? We together we can make more great products.
Thanks for that many suggestions, may I know the reason to have switch on the side instead the end?
My requirements would be:
T shaped headlamp (emitters in centre)
Supports protected or unprotected 18650
Main emitter - high-CRI - preferably LH351D 4000 or 5000k
Secondary emitter - high brightness Red XP-E2 or SST-20
Both with shallow OP reflectors with >150 degree spill angle
4-5 stepped brightness levels (so that you know the brightness and expected runtime, unlike ramping) for each emitter
A simple user interface with instant access to last mode memory, or moonlight.
No PWM
USB-C charging
T shaped? Do you have a photo of that kind?
Most crucially you need lots of deep heat fins
+1
cooling fins are good, but it has to be lightweight to.
to be honest, there already are quite a few good headlamps from sofirn and workkos
HD20
SP40
D10
D25
D25S
G6
to make something different that would sell will be tough.
h30 and D25S merge?
Or just improving on D25S?
or 18650 version of HD20 with cooling fins?
Ps. Any hope, for your standard rubber wurkkos switch, on new colored TS21, pretty please.
Would like a 18650, XHP70.2, and aux red light for photography.
I guess put the switch button on the side instead of the end would be easier to use since you don’t have to spread the fingers too wide to manipulate it.
When I try to press a switch on the end of a headlight, the entire headlight just gets pushed to the side.
Put the switch on the side and I can just squeeze the head between my thumb and finger.
Like this-
Now I see, thanks for the suggestion.