Advice needed on night hunting light and white vs. green vs. red lens covers or LED modules?

I’m new to the night hunting game and need to know what is the best way to light up a predator without scaring them off. And is there an advantage of buying the colored lenses versus the various LED modules in different colors? Which brings me to the question…which color?? …and then of course…how much power?

Welcome to BLF X-Ray Guy!
I am sort of curious if there is any real world benefit to the colors myself. Not tried it before. Getting enough power down range to see is not that hard anymore if your using white light. If you don’t need a pressure switch and your okay just turning the light on and off with the tail switch you can light up some eyes with a Convoy C8+ at a couple hundred yards.
I like the C8+ because it does NOT have a turbo timer. The output on high stays the same.
Acebeam L16 is a bit more expensive but it has a great down range beam, and more output. It does have a turbo timer on it (the output is maximum for a short time until the light heats up and then it dials back the power to protect itself), but even after the burst settles it’s plenty bright to see.
Another advantage of the L16 is that when you hit the tail switch you always get turbo not any of the lower modes.

Thanks for the reply cuz! I recently discovered that the only “real” way to throw a subtle beam downrange is with “true red” LED in the 620nM to 660nM range…with a distance of 100-200 yards. Additionally, any light in any color or configuration can spook prey if it is a sudden burst or flash. So now I’m wondering if there is a red light in the range I need with a variable adjustment or minimally Low-Medium-High. I do like the above light s that you mentioned, however, the clicky switch that is used on most lights is too loud and would scare prey. So now I’m thinking I need a pressure switch to attach near my trigger finger, for silent operation. I have looked up many of the options posted on previous threads but they are old pages linking to obsolete products.
On a side note…I’m also looking to buy a couple of basic campsite flashlights for the wife and I to use during our outings.
Thanks again for your help and may God richly bless you!!!

I’m certainly learning quite a bit on this forum but still my “perfect” coyote hunting light eludes me…but I will be patient. In the mean time I want to upgrade some old large MagLites…any ideas??

Appropriate color depends on animal.

Coyotes can’t see green, usually shy from light, only seen them maybe 3 times with a white light and one was staring intently at deer from atop a hay bale, rest were running hard
deer can’t see red/orange
Coons can supposedly only see green, white light often doesn’t spook them regardless

I would recommend C8 hosts as well.

EDIT: You should read A Night Hunter’s Guide to Light Color – The Nocturnal Marksman

Just because they don’t perceive it as color doesn’t mean they won’t see something that lights them up. Wearing colors they can’t see will break up your outline though

Geez I had no idea animals are that color blind / sensitive.

There was a thread a while back about an aspheric hunting light that had different color emitters. You mechanically switch from one color to the next. I think it was a prototype only at the time of the post.

One things for sure if you want to completely flush an area of wildlife, hit it with a few hundred lumens of white light. You’ll unearth all kinds of animals as they scamper and fly off.

You mention using red lens covers and “filters”. Those don’t work very well with white LEDs. There’s just not enough wavelength specific content from the LED source. So you’re better off using a dedicated red LED.

One way to go about it is an 18650 aspheric, but with a red emitter. I have never seen one though. There are infrared examples… but not visible red.

Note, I’m not recommending this light specifically. Seems to have spotty reviews for reliability. I’m just mentioning it as an example of an 18650 large diameter aspheric. Internal USB charging is not something I personally see value in.

They do sell empty pills… if you dont mind a little DIY.\_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller,scm-url:1007.13339.169870.0,pvid:2311078f-935d-47c6-afe2-73a63673bb8c,tpp_buckets:668%230%23131923%2363_668%230%23131923%2363_668%23888%233325%2315_668%23888%233325%2315_668%232846%238112%231997_668%232717%237561%23350_668%231000022185%231000066059%230_668%233468%2315612%23309_668%232846%238112%231997_668%232717%237561%23350_668%233164%239976%23665_668%233468%2315612%23309

But an aspheric design of course presents its own set of pros-cons. The most significant one could be size, weight, and thus mobility. Aspheric lenses are HEAVY (!!!) Matts C8 suggestion above would certainly be preferred in this regard. But a large diameter aspheric should be able to reach 100-200 yards. But I honestly have never tried it with a red emitter.

Good Luck!!

just so i understand…you are looking for two things:

1. one 100-yard illumination light that will not cause coyotes (?) to immediately run away.
2. two basic campsite flashlights.


  1. does the battery (batteries) type matter?
  2. is on or off enough in terms of options ?

Basically yes…#1 - I’m looking for a red coyote light for use in the kill zone and then, #2 - Something simple to use around the campsite possibly even a headlamp with simple on/off would work but a Red/Green/White would be nice. Batteries are not a concern. What seems to be the big hang up for me is the hunting light…I have several specs to adhere to…one is the range. I would like 100-200 yds. of range. I need silent switching with adjustable power. Zoomable beam focus. Scope mountable is a must also. And the LED color has to be a “true red” in the 630nM - 660nM wavelength range. I have seen a light that almost fits the bill but they do not state the wavelength of the red LED therefore I will not buy it. “Wicked Lights” makes some nice hunting kits and so does “LumenShooter” but they do not spec the color of red LED used.

when I google:

red light for hunting rifle

one of the first hits is this
Best-predator-hunting-lights for 2021
have you considered any of those?

fwiw, you may also want to ask in a hunting forum… to find out what other hunters actually use

Thanks for the link. I have researched most of those models and I’m still left wondering what color of red LED you get with the light…and that is an important detail for me. Apparently it is not so for the manufacturer. But I will take your advice on the hunting forum…

> I’m still left wondering what color of red LED you get with the light

I would also want to know…
try asking them, if they cant answer, I would either shop elsewhere, or buy from Amazon Prime with free returns, if I dont like the light color.

fwiw, I have 620, 660, 670, and 730nm red lights

the 620nm is more visibly bright

for a flashlight vendor seeking to maximise output, they will most likely use 620nm

for your application I think 620nm is fine,
I dont think you need higher, less visible red spectrum

“Scope mountable is a must also.”

does that mean the light has to attach to your scope?
would mounting on your rifle barrel work?

Where and how you want to mount this is going to matter a lot too. Personally I think on the scope is my least favorite because it just increased the chance that your scope with get bumped or moved out of correct alignment.
Mounting to the lower part of the front of the stock or to the barrel would my first choice.

… add to it that there are only 2 standards for lighting/optic mounts… 25.4mm and 30mm. So your light body tube diameter will need to fall within that range. The closer you can get to either, the less shimming / modding you’ll need to do. A lot of lights are not designed with this in mind, very few advertise body tube diameter on their spec sheets.

I have a Sofirn IF25A incoming to be used as an area flood light mounted to pic rail. It has a 30mm body tube, that I am hoping will work well with 30mm scope rail mounts.

IMHO a large diameter thrower + mounts would not be very ergonomic hanging off a scope. Curious, why wouldn’t you attach the light to the fore-grip area?

That is an excellent idea!!! …and the answer to your question is…Because I’m an idiot…LOL. I’m very new to hunting and this is my first rifle and I forgot it is AR platform with thousands of ways to mount things. This is probably what most Noobs go thru on their first go around. I will find a place to mount the light of choice on the fore-grip because I know this to be fact…Never, never mount anything on the barrel. So now I am left with finding the light that makes me happy…something definitely with a “true red” pill that can throw out to 200 yards…zoomable and focusable…I believe Amazon can almost hit the mark but nobody that I have found actually publishes the wavelength of the colors they use for their LEDs. This is important to me because coyotes can see red (and other colors) below 620nM. A great deal of night hunting is technique but I still prefer to have the advantage when it comes to visibilty. Is your new Sofirn IF25A going to be used in the white light spectrum and if so, what are you hunting at night that will stand still in a flood light beam? I have so many questions…But thank you for your help.
Cliff T.

I’m pretty new to hunting/shooting but I have heard that you should never mount/clamp anything to the barrel.

The only thing I “hunt” are sporting clays and paper sheet at the range… hahaha. I dont own any of the arms I shoot, I have plenty of friends who generously let me shoot theirs with them. So I am not at liberty to re-configure them. I offer to pay for their ammo… its the least I could do.

I am using pic rail mounts to support my camera lighting for my night hike video. So yes most definitely a different application. Hence my desire for an open flood-beam of white light. Yes it will spook any wild life in the vicinity which is a bummer even as a non-hunter.

I am using 25.4mm and 30mm lighting and scope mounts for this application… will post pics later tonight.

Good Luck and enjoy your new hobby!!

In a sense. It messes with barrel harmonics. My brake really messed with my Encore something awful (guessing it’s why they often refuse to thread the factory ones)

Most people even want the stock free floated.

Have not used it in anger yet, but recently purchased this s2 with red emitter from Kaidomain for very reasonable price. Especially so, as comparing to a genuine Convoy S2+ with SST40, they are identical in machining.
I chose it because it is nice and light and compact, and I will only use it for foxes up to 75 yards max. It will throw to 200 yards just on high. A little noise from switch, but there are pressure switches available for the S2.

If you want something that throws a little better to 200 yards and don’t mind a light that is a bit heavier and bigger, Kaidomain also offer their 501 and 502 models with red emitter.

Or, from Simon’s site, with even better throw - Convoy C8 + with KR CSLNM1.23 lamp


PS this was my first attempt to post a photo on this site, showing my new S2 mounted on the scope. Does not seem to display, so can be seen here.

I now there are a lot of predator hunters who claim that warm white light around 3000k or less is almost as effective as a red or green light, but that’s just anecdotal. There are some good articles on line showing the science of what wavelength of light is more visible to certain animals. For instance, I hunt feral hogs occasionally and supposedly, the higher nm range of green light start to be less visible to them. I use red light because I prefer it, but I know a lot of people use green and claim there is little difference. so basically, do some research on what light might be visible or not to the particular animal you’re hunting. I think the T-20 zoomie with a pressure switch is a great light to change from spot/flood depending on the range you anticipate, and a three way switch with really low- mid- high is a good choice. The c8 is also a great value host with a red/photo red Xp-e2 or SST-20DR if you want more a tight beam. Kramer5150 makes some good points IMO, the T20 zoomie is heavy, but worth it IMO. Just make sure you have the ability to start on low and maybe ramp up the output as needed since no matter what color, flashes a bright light of any color will probably flush whatever animals are around. Some informative threads:

This new xp-g3 in red is what I’ll be building with next, it looks like they just released two new higher bins according to cree data sheet:

I’ve also ordered red XP-e2’s from here a couple of times: