Hi everyone,
I recently purchased the Rolson 28 LED Aluminium Torch (61671), which runs on 3xAAA batteries. I’m looking to replace these with a single rechargeable battery that fits the torch and offers good performance and longer runtime.
Does anyone have recommendations for a suitable Li-ion battery (e.g., 18650, 14500) or any other rechargeable option that might fit with minor modifications?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Typically lights like yours are going to take three AAA batteries in parallel in a 3 battery holder. Parallel is the 3 batteries with their positive terminals facing in the same direction. Thus the output voltage is still the same as a single AAA battery, about 1.5 volts. The only rechargeable choice in that case is AAA NIMH batteries as the typical Lithium battery is 4.2 volts fully charged and about 2.5 volts when discharged. Probably burn out the light. If the batteries in the holder are in series then the operating voltage is circa 4.5 volts with fresh alkaline batteries.
No technical info on operating voltage available from the British seller’s web site or the Amazon USA web site listing I could find unfortunately so difficult to make a recommendation without more information other than the rechargeable AAA NIMH batteries and a separate NIMH external charger. The two together probably cost as much or more than the light.
I generally tend to see 3 AAAs wired in series so that they can direct-drive white LEDs with no boost driver (often times no driver at all). If this is the case, a single 18650 is approximate in size and voltage. But I would not make this replacement because the 18560 cell can output a lot of current and fry the driver (if there is one) and the LEDs.
In short, not worth upgrading. This light is hugely overpriced, and the tech+performance is 2 decades behind. About time that the OP treats themselves with a modern flashlight.
From a video of the flashlight (apparently someone actually saw fit to make a video of it - 8 years ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EUY-ZQ4J69E), it appears the three AAA batteries are in series.
But that’s a good point that the flashlight may not be set up to survive a more powerful battery. Grabbing a modern flashlight with integrated USB-C charging (like the FC11C) would be your safest, simplest option.
I get it. Thanks for the reply.
Thanks for the reply. I do have other torches from Nitecore too and I bought separate batteries from Nitecore for like £25, but the reason why I like the rolson is because of it’s simplicity to have only on/off mode and no low beam/high beam.
For what I use it for it’s perfect without having to adjust the light brightness.
Other models out there that uses on/off mode only are the key chain ones and the ones that do not look as good and robust as the rolson.
Most modern flashlights discussed on this forum have the option to just set the firmware as on/off. They are much more robust than the Rolson and have much better features (more battery capacity, more output/distance, more compact size, better color rendering, etc.). All those fancy options are there, but only if you want them. Flashlight tech has gone a long way even in the last few years.
Unfortunately Nitecore is a brand known for making overpriced lights with proprietary batteries. They used to do some very cool stuff a decade ago, but nowadays produce nothing noteworthy.
Hmm, I get your desire for a simpler, predictable flashlight. I’ve got a few of those myself!
Something I’ve heard people do before is ordering a light from Simon at Convoy, and asking for it to be customized with a different driver (like asking for an S2+ with a single-mode driver).
Alternatively, you can get a basic 18650 light from Kaidomain, which uses an older (but still reliable) style of P60 drop-in module. If you select “1-Mode” and “with KDLITKER E6”, then you end up with a basic, robust flashlight for $18.
There are other modules too for different light characteristics, like this one - just remember to select the correct options to ensure you get a single-mode flashlight.
I’ve found that most modern single-mode flashlights are pretty bright (since they always run at 100%), perhaps too bright for casual/indoor use. You may need to do some digging if you want something closer to the brightness of the 100 lumen Rolson. Here’s a lower-power driver from Convoy if you want to explore that too.
Interesting. How do you change the software on the modern torches to only function on/off mode? I’d be very interested to learn that.
On another note, I highly disagree with you on the Nitecore torches as they’re not as pricey as I remember they were 10 years ago.
I’ve used my first Nitecore for over 13 years everyday before it died and now I’ve been using my Nitecore for almost 6 years with no issues whatsoever and I only have to charge the Nitecore battery 18650 every 2-3 months with everyday use for pest control inspections.
I’ve “upgraded” a number of lights like that.
3xAAA/series=4.5v when fresh. Lithium=4.2v when fresh. LOTS of devices use 3xAAA instead of lithium…unfortunately. Some simply cannot be converted easily.
You are not likely to overpower and fry it.
The upgrade depends on the length of the 3AAA holder. Some are short, some are longer.
If it’s close to 18650 length, I find plumbing O-rings to make it fit the diameter, and use that.
If it’s shorter so that 18650 is too long you have to go down to a 18500 battery + O-ring shims (or something) + magnets to lengthen it. Big drop in capacity from 18650 though.
Works fine. You have to decided if the hassle is worth it.
Note-I have some 3xAAA motion night lights NOT in a cassette. Work fine, pathetic battery life. I rewired a couple to have an external cord I plug into a 18650 4x-parallel pack. Works great, doesn’t dim, lasts a REALLY long time. But it is ‘clunky’. I wired on a small LED voltage sensor so I can track the pack easily since there is no protection.
For example, lots of modern lights use the Anduril or Biscotti firmware, both of which have a single-mode group. The option for just on/off is built into the firmware. Also, all current-mode-memory firmwares can be used as single-mode firmwares if you don’t change the mode, you just have the additional freedom to choose which single mode you want. If you are thinking about the next-mode-memory Ultrafire drivers with SOS/strobe that nobody wants, none of the lights discussed here have this nonsense.
I don’t disagree with any of your claims regarding the Nitecore lights you own. However, nowadays it is possible and quite easy (just ask!) to get better lights for cheaper, for virtually any definition of “better”. If you haven’t seen better lights in action, of course you would find the existing light satisfactory.
