These do not have memory and also require a single star to be soldered to set modes.
I would like to add mode memory to them, is that possible? It should just be a reprogram, right? The little cap right behind the MCU seems to get in the way of my SOIC clip and so far I have not been able to program it. I am considering pulling that cap off and trying again.
But, before I go to the trouble. I wanted to be sure that this should be a tiny13a on the board, the chip has had all of the numbers sanded off for some reason.
I'm not an expert, so I can't answer the question if it is an ATtiny13, one thing I know is that on the AK-47-C1, as compared to the AK-47-A1, the traces to the gates of the 7135's come from a different pin of the MCU. This could of course just be a software thingy.
Could you post pictures of the ones you actually got? On the aliexpress page, they just look like generic MCU’s (not Attiny). Also, I was unaware that some of the 47’s had different pinouts like Djozz said.
As this thread is about AK-47 questions, is there an Oshpark board around that does the AK-47 in 15mm (so 3 chips, but if there's room for 4 I will not complain )? I have sanded quite a few down now for little flashlight mods and am getting pretty tired of doing that, always trouble. If I could just reflow the components of a prefereably AK-47-C1 (L-M-H w/o memory) on a 15mm Oshpark board I will become much happier.
I just got 3 of these in this week. Have not built one yet, but will soon just for testing and to have a ready driver in the drawer. I would send you a board, but I am not sure it would get there any sooner than if you ordered it from OshPark…
^^That SK68 board should work. Otherwise I think my 15mm ‘Minion’ driver may fit your needs. It’s 3*7135 and single-sided, but a tight squeeze to assemble.
I did not know about that one, thanks for the link.
But for small lights it is not always usable because it is two-sided, and the battery tubes of many small lights do not allow the extra length of a brass pillar or a small spring. And, being a cheapskate, Warhawk's board has the 105C lay-out, while the AK-47 lay-out is a bit different from a 105C, and harvesting the components from a AK-47 is twice as cheap .
will do a little study on that, but at least the AK-47-C1 (my favourite) from banggood is already different from their AK-47-A1, it has a different circuitry and has no resistors at all, just the MCU, cap, diode, and 3x7135. I found a AK-47-C1 on alibaba with one resistor (510K between C1 and ground), The A1 has two resistors on a different location.
Well the two resistors on most BLF boards are the voltage divider to provide LVP. If you don’t need LVP, just leave them off. It might cause a problem if the MCU is programmed for LVP, but if it came from a board that didn’t, then it won’t be a problem.
Pinout is a different story of course, it has to use the same pin for PWM or the MCU would have to be re-programmed.
@djozz, if the C1 will support memory if I can get the 13a to take code that includes mode memory? Or, will I need other hardware? I will post pics tonight, but there is a cap that is mounted so close to the 13a (I assume 13A) that I cannot get my clip lined up to try to reprogram it.
If it is a 13a, you definitely can get memory. Most of our FW’s use an extra capacitor to gain memory, but there are other existing ways to do it without adding any components
)? I have sanded quite a few down now for little flashlight mods and am getting pretty tired of doing that, always trouble. If I could just reflow the components of a prefereably AK-47-C1 (L-M-H w/o memory) on a 15mm Oshpark board I will become much happier.
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