Can we extend the group buy until everything gets fixed?
Also
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What is characteristics of the Nichia 219c’s in this flashlight?
Manker version supposedly have 4000~ Kelvins High cri version. What about this? 5000k and 80 cri?
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Found: Upcoming Astrolux S42 18350/18650 quad w side button and usb charging - #140 by maukka
While off:
click for last used level
double click for turbo
long press for moonlight
five clicks locks/unlocks
tap morse code for SOS for stupid blinkies
While on:
Hold for ramping up (ramp up, pause and flash to note highest setting, ramp down)
quick click and hold for ramp down (same as above, but reversed)
double click for turbo
triple click for moonlight
tap morse code for SOS for stupid blinkies
I think that would be a good UI, for me at least
That sounds perfect. I’ll take 10 of those drivers in 17mm please! Preferably with a configurable temp sensor built-in, and sold fully assembled through Mountain Electronics. :disappointed:
I like this direction
This light is much shorter than the s2+ short version.
Dented the bottom of Efest 18350, still won’t work.
Just got my light today and can confirm that neither my 18350 or the 18650 with an extension tube will fit properly. Both are protected batts. I was able to get a protected efest 700mAh 16340 to fit inside. If they can manage to fix the battery issue and the usb cover I think I may be able to tolerate this light as the UI is a major drawback. If the solution isn’t adequate though this will definitely be one I return. Fingers crossed they come up with something good.
Dang, my s42 will be delivered tomorrow by fedex…
That sounds good!
The only thing, which will be discussed by many people would be:
But short click for off is easier when the light is verry hot. And this differences depending of individual/personal liking.
this light is inferior hardware and software wise
BG has just responded to my “online chat” complaint of a defect product.
They indicated awareness of the problem and of the discussions here.
If the driver is OK they offered to send me a new battery tube.
It kinda looks like this email communication is running on a different track vs. the definitive solution(s) that BG is promised to be working on as discussed here.
I responded that the driver/emitters are OK, and I would be willing to try a new battery tube if that is their solution - but enumerated what is really needed as discussed in the two threads here.
Swi from BangGood pm'ed me yesterday asking me to take measurements, claiming they measured the battery tube at 37.15 mm, implying it's long enough. Here's what I took:
S42 short battery tube: 36.92 mm
S41 short battery tube: 37.22 mm
So at least for mine, the S42 tube is slightly shorter than the S41, but they still need to make at least 2 mm more somewhere.
She has not responded, but figure that was all before they came to the conclusion there's a serious problem.
With the risk of not understanding this properly because I have not received my S42: how can the battery fit problems be solved with just 2mm extra length if fitting the smallest 18350 requires removing the complete driver spring and shortening the tail spring?
I'm saying at least 2 mm, probably about 4-5 mm is about right with these stock springs.
It's all about compression. How many mm's does the driver spring compress to and how many mm's does the tail spring compress to. The driver spring sits dead even to the contact point of the tube to the driver. The tail spring sits in a 2 mm hole, it has 1.0 mm thick spring wire, maybe about 6 coils, but when it compresses, there's some overlap. I'd say roughly after full spring compression, the 37 mm of tube space reduces to about 33 mm of cavity space for the battery. Think the driver spring compresses to 2 mm, and the tail spring compresses to about 4 or 4.5 mm, but subtract 2 mm for the hole.
I think picking up 2 mm is still a risk, but replacing a spring with a solder blob simply saves the compressed spring height minus the height of the solder blob.
I'm content using a solder blob and a 1.4 mm washer in the tail with a flat 18350. Only problem is it exposes most of the o-ring in the tail end.
It might be that it could be long enough if the springs didn’t exist.
Mine has not come in yet, but from the pictures that youse guys are posting, it looks like the battery tube contacts the PCB on the same plane as the BOTTOM of the driver side spring. Which means that the driver spring subtracts from the length of the tube.
In the tail, there is a small recess that the spring sits in, it looks like the depth of which is about the diameter of the spring wire. But still, most of the length of the tail spring subtracts from the tube length.
+1 - the tail recess is 2.0 mm deep.
How much material is left between the machined out spot for the tail spring and hole for the metal spike? Is it enough to machine the spot for the tail spring 2 mm deeper?
It sure sounds like someone, somewhere (in China?) made a bad calculation error. A proper QA process should have caught it though, long before mass production AND customer shipments.
I still think a longer battery tube is the best fix.
- It can easily be applied by everyone
- It can fix the problem with otherwise partially exposed o-rings
PROPER QA??
Dude, checking to see if a battery fits and the light works is something my 12 year old daughter would have done.
Sorry, not flaming you, just frustrated.
Not looking forward to an email conversation with customer NOservice over a week explaining a problem that a middle schooler can identify.
Either way, a flattop 18350 will have enough room unless the springs get in the way.
This must be how it is designed, which is okay.
Somewhere along the line a driver spring and a too large one in the tail were introduced to the assembly…. :person_facepalming: