And THAT… says it perfectly.
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I got 50 last time///48 and I really wanted to go back to the well and buy another 50 … it didn’t surprise me that they were sold out and I couldn’t get more. . . what a great deal
They were so good you could never have bought too many .
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The best part, with cells in packs — They’re very closely matched for use in Multi-Cell lights
I have no issues with BH – they’re refunded me for any cells that are under voltage or that didn’t make at least 80% capacity
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The best part … was price … and the fact that the internal resistance was the lowest I’ve ever seen in any cell.
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I remember in my yoot, i used an arc welder to join two 18350s together. 30 years later, I still EDC it.
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ACRUNU large bike light - 15% off (44.99 → 38.24).
previously discussed in this blf thread.
claims 2600lm for 2 hours, 8000mah. no specs on led/cct/cri.
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NICRON N7 adjustable flashlight - 63% off (29.99 → 10.99), but normally sells for 17.99.
recommended to me by @Correllux and discussed in this blf thread.
claims 600lm on 14500, 250lm on AA. magnet, no battery. no specs on led/cct/cri.
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That’s a great deal Thanks
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Tartara, just curious…what was it that you found so dangerous or questionable about that topic? I think you even reported it to sb for some reason?
It’s very much an old topic and “we” have been adapting cell sizes sometimes for a long, long time now, without issues. Obvious simple precautions aside (like keeping the + centered and in contact), what do you perceive as the risk? Personally I’m not a fan of the wadded foil approach but many have used that with no problems and it can come in handy for troubleshooting…it’s not very efficient electrically but good enough as long as a light isn’t wanting toooo many amps. Similarly with magnets, some simple precautions but they can get you out of a jam, so to speak, if there are no other proper solutions.
This thread has drifted far away from its topic. But for those recycled packs/cells…if I had a use for that many now, I would certainly buy from them. They’ve been used and recommended for a long time. Not that different from when we all used to disassemble old laptop packs and use those cells (many of which were very good cells in great shape).
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It’s a neat light - actually have used mine a ton over the last several years. That said, they have changed the driver on this one and I think maybe the emitter, too. I got mine for around $8 or so and it’s crazy to see how they have repeatedly jacked up the price on it several times as it soared in sales/popularity. They aren’t as good with warranty as they started out being…or so reviews would suggest (so many sales and to the general public, it’s hard to weed out a lot of the idiot-chaff and see where the strengths and problems really are). It used to have the LH351B in there, which was ok and not as good as the “D” we’re used to…a little DC Fix made it a pretty nice indoor task/work light. Works with any cell you can put in there. Super easy to pocket activate so get used to mech lockout if that could be an issue for you - I put a different clip on it that covers the button and bent it up a little…decent protection but lockout still needed. It’s totally not worth the retail they’re asking these days but for $14 or less I’d recommend it. No way to mod it, btw…love it or leave it.
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Not sure whats more interesting now… the problem with using battery tube adapters or the language that must be used while explaining the problem that ends with your post being deleted… 
Hi there, the posts that got deleted yesterday were a clear violation of the BLF Rules. They were originally flagged as such by a member that wasn’t even participating in the argument, and I also had to step in and moderate the situation. I just now cleaned up the whole skirmish so the thread doesn’t get derailed again.
@Everyone: Please stick to the current topic of “Amazon Deal Alerts & Discussion Thread”.
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Does anyone know if these are still Made in Japan???
The last ones I bought about 3-4 years ago were.
I looked on Amazon just now & can find no reference to where they were made.
(This leads me to sadly think they may be now made in China… 
)
Cutting a 18650 in half would give you two 18325’s. 
Hmmmmm… cut it long ways & ya’ get two 09325’s!!
Choices, choices… 
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Eneloops are, in the long run, the least expensive and most reliable option. I have a few Japanese-made Amazon batteries but most suffered early internal resistance issues.
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Yep, I only get Eneloops (and Eneloop clones) made in Japan for AA and AAA cells. 
I totally agree about Eneloops, I have a boat load of them.
BUT, these are going into AAA lights I am gifting along with a charger.
Personally I have had good luck with the ones from Amazon that were Made in Japan. NOT WILLING TO TRY THE Made in China ones though.