They never offered a magnetic base…
I got a bunch of N52 magnets and glued them into the cap. You can darn near do pullups on the thing hanging horizontally on the refrigerator… 
So if you want a magnetic base, it can be done.
Which magnets? If you don’t mind…
I had thought I saw somewhere that there’s about 3mm of available space and I found some 3mm N42 magnets at my local hardware store, but they were cost-prohibitive.
1kg of whole-bean LaBamba coffee for 10bux.
Yeah, it was six bucks for the orange color, and one or two more for the other colors.
I do have a couple digital gauges (that use captive lithium coin cells) from Costco that are probably 25-30 years old. Or more.
They serve as beaters kept in the glovebox, and the “nice” analog gauges (both dial and pencil) are kept at home.
I haven’t gotten around to doing a shootout with the Etenwolf vs. all the others yet, but I think I will request an exchange and hope that it’s (more) consistent with the rest of the fleet. Willing to sacrifice some accuracy (if they are truly calibrated) in exchange for the consistency. If not, it’s still nice to have around, esp. at the low cost.
Sorry to butt in, I used these D7H1 | K&J Magnetics
based off this recommendation. Printables
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Perfect!
And now I need to find someone to print that carrier for me, too!
Thanks!
It has been a while. I need to try and find the records. I used one type under the spring and different ones (like 11 of them) around the edge. Super glued them in… which was a bit of a mess. But had I just waited until it had full y cured… before adding magnets.
I did not use a carrier. See below
Edit. the K7J Magnetics D7H1 listed above are what I used for the perimeter
This one under the spring.
Honestly a carrier would make it much easier. Getting the magnets set in place evenly while all of the other ones are pulling on them, is a bit of a challenge. Because of this I could only get 11 in, but done correctly (IIRC) there is space for 12. But with 11 and the N52 under the spring, it holds quite well.
Gotcha. I’ll be working on getting a carrier printed if I can find someone with that stuff…
I’m tempted to just try and super glue them down with my little bottle of fast-setting spray, but I always make a mess of super glue.
I also cut a disk out of a self adhesive rubber sheet and stuck it on the bottom. A mixed blessing as it reduces the magnetic force a bit. But it really helps to keep the light from sliding on vertical surfaces. But even helps with sliding on any non-horizontal (even non-magnetic) surface.
Not available on Amazon now, but I am sure it can be found. A 3M product. Here
It has been on the light for … close to 2 years without coming off. It is quite grippy
Good idea! That thunk of metal on metal always makes me grimace…
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I used 3 x14500 lithium on the $10 walmart 3pack lantern light to see if it’ll get extra bright, but it flashed a few times and now its randomly flickering with half of the cob lighting only and randomly in brightness. I think it’s perfect for halloween, but any idea if this is “fixable”?
the light is difficult to pull open, but otherwise I like it for only ~$3 a lantern light with multi-functions, hard to beat.
Casio AWG-M100A-1ACR G-Shock AWGM100A-1A Men’s Tough Solar Black Resin Sport Watch https://a.co/d/2apl5Il
This watch has a tag at the end of descriptions saying “Frequently returned item”. I bet you many ordered it, played with it and then returned it after the adrenaline rush is over. 
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Don’t know WHICH specific light you mean, but if it called for 3xAA and you put 3x14500 in it you went from ~4.5v to 12+v. You likely fried it.
At $3 hardly worth fixing.
I don’t really care what $ it is or the end result, it is more about learning how to “fix electronics” and able to do something with it. perhasp swapping out the cob led? looks like the red and flashlight led can tolerate the 12v just fine, which make it an interesting upgrade. maybe i can run a higher voltage cob so the entire light can be run with higher voltage and brighter?
For those that bought the jump starter. I put the unit into the trunk of my car about a year ago when I got it. Well, first I charged it until it indicated 100%. I have been checking it every couple of months since. It has continued to show 100% charge. I was skeptical about this (too good to be true with parasitic drain going on), so I connected a little TC66 USB meter inline. I found that (even though it said 100% charge) it was charging at around 20 watts. It continued to charge for around an hour and a half at that rate before it dropped to like 0.2 watts. I left it like that for 30 minutes, but it did not change. At that point I figured it was fully charged.
The point is, if you want this thing fully charged, don’t depend on the displayed charge level to know that it is. I would suggest connecting it to a fast charger (25 watts or better) for an hour or so at least every 6 months to insure you have a full charge.
Just a heads up.
BTW, I checked the USB outputs and they seem to meet specs. I have not had to use the unit to actually jump start a vehicle. So I can’t comment on that.
If they ever come up for this price again, I would consider getting one or two as gifts.
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The question you need to ask yourself is: do you want to start your car or do you want to charge your phone from your car charger so you can call triple A so they can come with a real booster and start your car.
Those $29 charger/boosters are absolute garbage.
You will leve yourself and your family in harms way.
I already answered that by buying the unit. It can do both.
Last time I had to get roadside service, I waited 3 hours. Some of the places I drive, they won’t even go (oh yeah, and cell service is questionable). BTW, I don’t pay for triple A… it is a few times more than this $20 unit…annually.
All the thing needs to do is start the car once and it pays for itself.
I have read plenty of reviews on similar units, all of them will start a car if it is just a low battery (and you keep them charged up). Beyond that, yeah, not so great.
I do my best to monitor and maintain my battery, but stuff happens. This thing is just cheap insurance. Even if it doesn’t work, It didn’t cost much. AND , it is a power bank for SHTF situations. At that, cheaper than most comparable 18 K mAh power banks…
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I think one needs to have as many options as possible. I keep both a jump starter and jumper cables in my car. Calling AAA is not always possible because there are locations where there is no cell service. Case in point my 2 youngest kids were in a national park last month when a tire blew out and cell service wasn’t available. Luckily someone stopped to help them out but they would have been fine changing the tire themselves.
Also a few years ago my sister-in-law had a dead battery and had no cell service. She was in the Oakland hills, a large city across the bay from San Francisco, but due to the hills couldn’t call AAA and had to walk a mile to get a cell signal.
So implying that having a jump starter is a bad idea is bad advice in my opinion. Saying that having a better jump starter would have been better advice.
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