Got one, used it a number of times over several years. Always worked. Keep it in the trunk for emergencies…like a spare tire.
I DO check it a couple times/year, and I “tried” to get one that had decent reviews for the price. Project Farm has done some tests on some models. There are hoards of them, which is part of the problem of reliability/performance/cost equation.
1 Thank
What I was trying to say is that those tiny car bosters are more like power banks for your phone.
I have quite a bit of experience with those lithium ion jumpstarters because I put off buying a battery for my riding mower for a year after the battery died. If you only need to turn over the engine for 3-4 seconds for it to start, the jump starter works great. I’ve started my riding mower 50+ times this way. However, when I was having engine trouble and needed to spray in starter fluid to get it to start, the jump starter wasn’t sufficient to handle my troubleshooting. The jumper pack was still mostly charged, but it cannot output sufficient power for long enough to run the starter continuously. Whereas hooking up to my F-150 with jumper cables, I was able to run the starter continuously.
For ~ $10 more you can get one with a screen.
Just like @SIGShooter , I carry jumper cables as well because they can provide more power if necessary if another vehicle is available. But if your engine’s running normally and your only issue is a dead battery, then the extra power shouldn’t be necessary.
1 Thank
Super capacitor jump starter
Get a super capacitor jump starter if you worry about battery drain. You cannot jump start if battery is completely dead but you can still pump up the capacitors from another car or a usb power bank. These are also a lot safer to store in car if you live in extreme hot weather area.
1 Thank
More importantly, batteries typically die in the ice cold winter. In the winter cars are typically harder to start. You will want all the juice you can get to start an ice cold car. This becomes even more important if you keep your jumper in that same ice cold car.
An important point to keep in mind when jump starting is the state of charge in the car’s battery. Something many people forget or don’t understand is that even a moderately discharged battery will be competing with the starter for current, which is why it is typically recommended to let the recipient battery charge for several minutes or tens of minutes in extreme cold, especially if the battery is significantly discharged. That way when you try to start, both batteries are contributing some current as opposed to the jumper trying to support both simultaneously.
While not all jumper packs are equal, it’s better to have even a cheap one than not at all. Sometimes the battery is just reaching the end of life, but you don’t notice until that one cold night alone in the parking lot and the starting requirements are pushed just above the battery’s capabilities, leaving you with the dreaded cliiiiiiik when you turn the key. That’s when even a cheap jumper pack can be worth its weight in gold, presuming you’ve kept it charged.
One should also keep in mind that these are not designed to last forever, especially in the extreme swings of temperatures in most cars. You might have to replace the cheap ones more frequently, but I wouldn’t expect any of them to remain effective after 2 to 3 years, especially if you don’t recharge them every season and check that they haven’t puffed out from all that time in the heat.
KuoH
This thing is a great deal. Comes with battery and retail magnetic box. Bought for $20 but $22 now. Still great deal.
4 Thanks
I have the 9 piece version of the kit. Think it costed me 10 or 11$. Ive used them for way more then just electronics. I have an easier time pulling slivers out of my hands with these, then the gf’s tweezers from the medicine cabinet. Awesome lil buggers
1 Thank
Seems like a good deal for some reasonable value outdoor IP cameras with a decent featureset (sadly no POE, there’s a POE version that’s much less discounted). Usual IOT “excrement” mobile app to set them up but they have an ONVIF stream so you can use them with proper software. Usual stuff about buying security products from China: Don’t give it internet access at all to be safe, only have it usable through your DVR. Not got them yet but going to give them a try.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YHQYX5G
Edit: The POE version has “Humanoid Detection” apparently. Does that mean it distinguishes humans and non-human humanoids? 
“Catgirl detected” “Romulan detected” “Eldritch abomination detected”?
2 Thanks
mainly just this first one i was gonna post
thrunite tc20 v2 (prime only deal)
Amazon
$50.36 (prime only)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09RWS4F95
sp36 pro $48.99 (prime only)
acebeam x75 6500k tint
$319.92 (prime only)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B87SRXNS
LT1S Pro for $20(!)$50: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C1ZDN5P9?psc=1
(Edit: There was a checkbox for an additional $30 off, but it seems to have disappeared, maybe they ran out of that sale already. $50 is still a nice price though.)
Q8 Plus for $91: Amazon.com
3 Thanks
How do you see that LT1S for $20?
There was a checkbox for an additional $30 off, but it seems to have disappeared, maybe they ran out of that sale already. $50 is still a nice price though.
Proof:
2 Thanks
That was a nice deal, I missed it but what a buy.
Prime Day Deal. This appears to be a rebranded Wurkkos FC12, for $20, which is $10 less than the Prime Day price of the Wurkkos-branded version.
acebeam e75 (519a in NW) $79.99
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CC1K16SW
pokelit aa green (219f) $16.95
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5BZLKWT
pokelit aa copper (519a) $34.36
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BNH666DL
1 Thank
The VENLAB Digital Multimeter is on sale again for $7.99 as part of the Prime Big Deal promo. It’s a little bit more than the last time, but still pretty good for a basic DMM with a backlight if you don’t already have a beater HF red one around and even if you do, it couldn’t hurt to have another.
KuoH
The Orange Pokelite is one of the sharpest oranges I’ve seen