Anduril ... 2?

[ToyKeeper]

@Garik_F

Have barely no effect, kinda like placebo I guess

On my FW3X, I see two types of output variability on low modes:

• Ripple: A slow random variation which looks similar to candle mode. Can be seen by putting the light down and pointing it at something, then just watching.
• Pulsing: Fast, consistent, precise bright bursts with dim output between. Can be seen by waving a thin white object quickly through the beam.

I pushed an update to reduce pulsing on low modes. It increases the speed of the pulses, which makes them less visible. I can’t do anything about the ripple though, since that’s just the circuit’s innate background noise and isn’t under the firmware’s control.

[ToyKeeper]

@Noir

I gather that @loneoceans had added a “TURBO_TEMP_EXTRA” definition that raised the temperature limit by a configurable amount (default was +5°C) for the FET turbo and only stepped down once that limit was reached. This is most likely what made the turbo last a usable amount of time

Ah, that makes sense. The current code doesn’t have anything like that, but it could be added.

This “huge drop from level 150 to level 149” design isn’t what the thermal code was designed for, so it’ll need some workarounds to make it behave a little better.

@Noir

Lower lows, while of course very nice and much appreciated, are in this case unfortunately not really all that usable as they come at the cost of a bright preflash and severe flickering (which can actually seem like the user inadvertently activated candle mode).

The preflash and candle-like ripple aren’t caused by having lower lows. They’ve been there the whole time, and are simply more visible now. The user can do two things to avoid it:

• Preflash: Turn off smooth steps.
• Ripple: Set the ramp floor higher, at a level where the signal overwhelms the noise.

Combined, this should get it pretty close to how it was before adding the lower levels.

[ToyKeeper]

@Noir

post 531

Hmm, that post indicates that the FET can do PWM after all, and he used it that way in some builds. I was under the impression that it wasn’t compatible, but it seems like maybe the reason for not using that was just to reduce noise when running at 4 kHz?

The current version uses 16 kHz though, so maybe it could PWM the FET to get a smooth ramp up to turbo?

If so, that would make it behave more like other supported lights, and would eliminate the need for hardware-specific workarounds.

Was audible noise the only reason for not doing a smooth ramp between max regulated and full turbo? (like, level 130 for max regulated, and 20 ramp levels up to turbo at 150) Or was there some other reason?

[Light_Veteran]

Hi @ToyKeeper, for Sofirn SP36 Pro with T1616 what firmware I have to use? What are connections with pogopin? Hank or gchart pogo?
Under the driver there are 3 pads R V G

[thefreeman]

There’s a SP36-t1616 build, so, that.
R is UPDI, G is ground and V is V+, most likely.

[ToyKeeper]

@Light_Veteran

there are 3 pads R V G

You sure it’s in that order? G is usually in the middle.

That way, the pins go “+ - +” and it doesn’t hurt anything if it gets reversed because it’s still “+ - +” either way. Having G (ground) in the middle makes it safe to plug in upside-down / flipped / rotated.

If G isn’t in the middle, you may have some difficulty flashing it since it would need the adapter re-wired.

[Light_Veteran]

This is the order
So in this case?

[SammysHP]

In this case you need a different wiring or you might damage the driver or flasher.

[litris]

Hello everyone again, I will still only continue reading from time to time for my health, a shame!

I would like the default temperature to be 55°C so that with each update I don’t ask for the file to be modified and compiled.

I didn’t ask for it again so as not to disturb.

I have several flashlights with anduril 2.

TS10
SC31Pro
TS11
TS25

Every time I restart I have to configure 55° ceiling and it is complicated, I never know if I achieved it because it cannot be verified.

In the TS10 I had a problem on an outing, it was worn in the cap, it is comfortable, it is not heavy, but one of the times when trying to put turbo from the cap, it stayed fixed on turbo, I don’t know how I got there.

But if I turned it on it would enter the normal level and then go to turbo without touching it.

I couldn’t get out of that mode and it wasn’t turbo mode because it turned on in normal mode and went to turbo, so the fixed turbo mode doesn’t work.

Well, since we were on a night out I had to restart the flashlight and I lost the 55°C ceiling.

Since it was summer it was about 35° and the flashlight reached 45° in seconds and the light continually decreased, I couldn’t use it.

I would like it to be 55° by default, I think all brands without anduril use 55°

That way I wouldn’t have this problem, it would return to 55° each time it restarts.

I have seen videos and the first thing they do is raise the ceiling temperature, I think no one uses the value of 45° and less in warm areas.

The other request is the strobe mode in simple UI with 3C so that children and adults can have fun.

I gave the older flashlights with anduril with advanced UI to use the strobe mode but it is very complicated for those who are not used to entering with 3H.

They ended up changing other things about the flashlight.

In short, chaos.

The next day I bought flashlights from a Chinese bazaar 1C lit 2c strobe.

Nobody wanted my flashlights with anduril, everyone used the cheap flashlights

I think that in simple UI there should be nothing not even the battery value, just turn on, turn off, brightness levels, turbo with ceiling and strobe

Thanks, I’m glad to read you again!
PS: Remember that I use a translator

[ToyKeeper]

Somebody really needs to find the engineer at Sofirn who keeps putting flashing pads in random arrangements… and have a long talk.

Like, imagine if your phone had a UCB-S connector instead of USB-C. Or maybe BU-SC, or U–C-S–B, or other random layouts and combinations. That’s basically what Sofirn did here.

Very frustrating.

[Light_Veteran]

@ToyKeeper

Somebody really needs to find the engineer at Sofirn who keeps putting flashing pads in random arrangements… and have a long talk.

For what I see I need to talk with hundreds of people.
So you think is better I will wait before upgrade?
My picture is the only in the planet for the new SP36 Pro under drive… there are not pictures of this new pads and no picture of “random engineer”

[Light_Veteran]

In this case we have to talk to Engineer…with a baseball bat

[Quadrupel]

They probably don’t use those pads because assembling pre-flashed MCUs?

[ToyKeeper]

@Light_Veteran

So you think is better I will wait before upgrade?

I think you will need a multimeter to confirm which pin is Ground (just to be safe), and then you will need a custom flashing adapter which is only used by this one light. Or maybe solder small wires onto the pads, flash, then remove the wires.

[thefreeman]

It’s very easy to see the GND pin if it has a solid connection to the GND zone around it.

[sszpila (Szpila)]

The order is: R - UPDI, V - VCC, G - GND. I’m able to dump firmware from my SP36PRO with this layout.

[Light_Veteran]

Yes, outer ring is in contact with ground

[Light_Veteran]

@ToyKeeper

I think you will need a multimeter to confirm which pin is Ground (just to be safe), and then you will need a custom flashing adapter which is only used by this one light. Or maybe solder small wires onto the pads, flash, then remove the wires.

Yes I checked and G is ground with external ring. Can I use hank pogo with dupont? or gchart pogo with dupont and rewire?

[YBF650]

@Light_Veteran

Can I use hank pogo with dupont? or gchart pogo with dupont and rewire?

It looks like the wide spacing, so it should be a match to 3 duponts with pogopins stuck in them.

[ToyKeeper]

You might need a Code Fork™

This is what I had to use on another Sofirn light with the pins in the wrong layout.