So I’m still running an L10 on my titanium key ring with a bunch of titanium gear. It’s getting a little beat up. Is there are a good titanium replacement? I prefer L-M-H, high CRI, and if possible, a color temperature between 3000K and 4500K.
There’s a distinct lack of AA or even AAA twisties at the moment, seems they’re not a popular format…
Maratac AAA Ti. You will have to get the LED swapped… and accept the UI is MLH.
Bear in mind the Maratac site often has inaccurate info about what LED is in the light, and what the actual output is. Also Ti twisties are notoriously gritty.
There are also many AA Ti Maratacs on Ebay… no mention what LED is in them, so you will still have to mod to get High CRI
Beta QRv2 Titanium?
Or mod a DQG tiny aaa, thrunite ti or Maratac aaa.
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Those are good suggestions for AAA, but OP looking for AA.
Edit to add:
Link to search on parametrek for 1AA/1*14500, twisty, stainless or Ti.
The only light in the database is Ti Maratac AA 219 , which I believe is discontinued?
It isn’t exactly what you’re looking for but there is a titanium version of the Tool AA, but the standard tailcap is clicky, but you might be able switch to the magnetic tailcap or modify the switch so it is permanently “clicked”. On the aluminum version you can swap to a magnetic tailcap to use it as a twisty, but it doesn’t have a keyring hole, and there might not be a mechanical lockout on the Ti version.
You also could strip the anodizing from the non-titanium version to make it shiny using some oven cleaner (or basically anything highly alkaline, concentrated lye works) which will hide the wear better.
When using a 14500 the UI is is L-M-H-moonlight with a hidden strobe (6 fast taps), iirc no mode memory if used as a twisty.
CW version has a terrible XP-L2 and you should avoid it at all costs, the NW version is a relatively nice 219C 4000k 90cri emitter, though the hotspot is slightly yellow. It would be a very straightforward mod if you decide to swap emitters out to a 219b or 519a though, as the whole pill comes out.
It’s a shame. Twisties really are the best in some circumstances, namely Keychain EDC. While I’m not totally opposed to AAA, I’ve been very happy with AA in this role. Sadly, the L10 I had been using is now non-functional.
I dont have any other Ti Twisty AA suggestions, besides the AA Maratacs on Ebay.
good luck with your search 
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I have a Mini MK3, a 16340/cr123a twisty, feels like 16340 is a better size than 14500 for a keychain light because of the length. Unless it is something very short like a TS10 modified with a keyring hole.
Speak of the devil, it died. This was my key ring setup. That L10 was perfect for what it was. The key ring attachment being in the middle made it hang nicely. There was no button to accidentally press, no fiddly lock-out procedure, no parasitic drain from an electronic switch. It was just a nice twist operation with the perfect mode order.
Sure, the Nichia 219A was behind the times but as a neutral white emitter with decent CRI, it did the job reliably. I don’t remember when I got it but I got at least a few years out of it.
worth a try:
it might come back to life if you wipe all the threads and contact surfaces with a dry paper towel, to remove excess lube.
Then reassemble with no added lube, and let us know if you got lucky.
fingers crossed
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I had a foursevens mini aa high cri twisty on my keychain for years. Nowadays my tastes have changed and I think of it as a bit of a boat anchor. That being said, I do see the appeal of the aa twisty type. Maybe I’ll see if I can do an emitter swap on the foursevens and give it another try for old time’s sake.
I have several of those various L3 lights. I bought a 10 pack on clearance a couple years back. Anyway, there’s a chance you can revive it if you’re handy and willing to try. I’ve modded them and can give you some troubleshooting ideas.
Thanks! I cleaned and re-lubed it with no luck. I’ll try it dry.
I’m somewhat handy with knife stuff but not so much with electronics. The most complicated thing I’ve done is to swap reflectors and lenses, or swap a dead pill for a new one on a Convoy.
I got a lot of gunk cleaned out of this L10. I noticed significant carbon build-up on the flat (-) side of my Eneloop Pro and also the bottom point at the base of the tube where it connects. I’ll try it dry per the previous suggestion
I had an L10 quit on me and it turned out that a solder blob for the negative contact had split between the board and the pill brass. A quick touch with a hot soldering iron fixed it
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Hard to see down in there but I’ll try to see. Thanks.