yes looks like an xpe but not sure if its real. The one mine came with had a really blue hue. Does yours have the same? Also check the tailcap amps. is it 0.5 A? lol thats just way too low.
CREE XP-E does not have those 3 square parts inside the dome in a green color, that is for sure. Also there are 3 wires inside of a XP-E LED, one that goes outside the emitting die, this one has only 2. So no, it is some clone.
Oh, ok, bummer. Thanks for the info, though. They do have some sort of squares, but like you said, no 3rd wire. Found an XP-E & XP-G photo on this thread.
There are other details of which I have not mentioned like the anode and cathode plates on the side under the green color are not brown like the original XP-E, nor do I see the + cutout, wires are coming from the "dot" side which of course it is the other way around on the CREE XP-E
Thanks again for the info. Sorry, I don’t know much about this, but learning. + cutout is the + shape in the middle of what looks like the metal strip on the right hand side of the XP-E? And the dot on the upper right hand corner has significance?
To me it looks like the real one is sitting on metal and the fake isn’t. Although I suppose both are, but the fake looks, not surprisingly, cheaper, and less metal
The LED is fake, the wires are coming from the wrong side, it's plain absurd to even detail more about it, the dot is too small, the "metal plates" do not even surround the dome in the fashion the CREE XP-E has them, etc.
OK, I got my yellowish SkyWolfEye zoomie. Feels so lightweight I wonder if I could crush it in my hands …
Wanted to make more cheap safe lights to give away, using this as an experiment figuring if I get the parts right, I can use them in “last year’s 18650 flashlights” and give them away with safe batteries and chargers to people.
I put in a mtnelectronics 1-2AA driver and an old amber XKE, using a 4/3AF NiMH cell — and it’s fine. Also works fine, and much brighter, using a LiFePO4 cell (3.0v)
Using the NiMH, the flashlight has been lit up 36 hours, hasn’t gotten hot, and still producing plenty of useful light (for emergency/earthquake/power failure purposes).
Pretty amazing. Now this is all about the driver and emitter, obviously. just using the SkyWolfEye cheapie as a dirt cheap testbed for the parts.
Did you mean XR-E? Or it’s something else completely? Amber is just for the test purpose or will be target solution? If the latter - have you seen latest PC-amber LEDs from CREE and Lumileds? Those are phosphor based just like white LEDs (PC stands from Phosphor Converted) and are much more efficient than direct amber, also the light spectrum is much wider which is an advantage in a flashlight.
typo, I meant XP-E, the version before the XP-E2
I’m just using up older amber emitters with these dirt cheap lightweight lights…
Choosing amber for nighttime use to avoid interfering with sleep cycles (“white” light at night is a problem some people, especially babies and older folks)
On better hosts I use the Luxeon PC Rebel or PC-Amber, and higher power
I’ve been considering PC-amber LEDs myself for precisely the reasons you outlined. hank, could you please share your personal impression how normal amber leds (i.e. aforementioned XP-E) compare with PC-amber ones? I’m yet to find a PC-amber LEDs source at reasonable price where I live and it seems that pc-amber version in smaller package/power (for direct swap with white 3528/5050/5630) does not exist.
Regular amber is fine. XP-E is older, still widely available. XP-E2 amber is what I buy now, mostly, though I’ve used some of the the PC Amber luxeons and recently the Cree PC amber emitters.
I know the smaller packages are available, but not sure where to find them. I recently got a “MrBeams” 3xAA motion sensor night light that uses a little flat rectangular amber emitter.
and the streetlight manufacturers are, in some instances, starting to listen to the biologists, medical people, and astronomers about the bad effects of white light at night
For practical flashlight use the regular non-PC amber is fine, just a bit lower voltage to pay attention to.
I also found it easy to kill the old XPE amber with heat while soldering nearby, had a bond wire come loose (looked at under a microscope later), but that may just be me.
The PC type is ok but does leak some emission in wavelengths shorter than around 500nm, which I prefer to avoid for late night use, so I can get back to sleep easily.
Your experience will vary, sleep is much better consolidated for young adults, and rather worse for infants and old people.
Interestingly, I just read that dogs respond only to light in the blue and yellow range; I’d noticed my dogs got around better with amber than with red light at night.
Just got a silver one, the body color is really nice, I was surprised. Works well for a lot of what I use it for. Off brand emitter, but Xpg2’s are cheap. Mine needed a button top.
Similar to the 68’S in function, for me. Plus they’re small and take an 18650. Cheaper than dirt too