Anyone Know A Good Way To Remove The Bezel On The Olight S10-L2 Baton Light?

I have an Olight S10-L2, (new model), Baton light. It’s a neat little light but I’m increasingly disliking the green tint of the XM-L2 LED which is green in all modes and not just higher modes.

I have a small piece of green filter flexible and thin plastic sheeting that I got on the CPF forums about ten years ago from a lighting expert who used it to take the green out of stage lights. When I put it in front of the lens on the S10, it completely eliminates the green. I want to cut a round piece out and put it behind the lens on the light.

Is there a bezel removal tool or is there another way I could remove the bezel say with circlip pliers or what? Any help would be greatly appreciated and thanks.

I don’t have the S10-L2, but I do have the original S10.

Bezel removal is very easy and fast. Get one of those rubber pads from the grocery store used to open stuck jars. Place the pad in the palm of your left hand. Hold the light in your right hand bezel first into the pad. Press firmly and unscrew. Should come right off.

With the bezel off, the lens will be revealed. Instead of a conventional o-ring, the lens sits in a slotted rubber gasket and probably won’t fall out on its own. Take off the tailcap and insert a battery into the light. Then press on the back of the battery to push the lens and lens gasket out of the light.

If you want to remove the green without decreasing output, you can keep going and replace the emitter with your choice of neutral tint XM-L2. Also make sure to replace the lens. At least in the original S10 a substantial amount of the green was caused by the choice of lens coating. Any 20mm lens should fit. You can also upgrade the star to a direct copper Noctigon.

Same approach but i used one of my winter boots, even the sole of a shoe may work and saves you buying something just for this purpose (make sure you use a clean surface to avoid damage to your light)

The rubber pad may give you more leverage so if the shoe/boot doesn’t work then try the rubber pad

I appreciate that Firelight2 but this is supposedly a NW XM-L2. Personally I’ve had the worst luck with NW emitters as they all have some green or yellow tints in them, (the ones I’ve tried anyway), which I don’t care for. I also appreciate the advice of swapping out the emitter but that’s beyond my capabilities and I sure envy you folks that do that kind of stuff.

Thanks so much for the tips on removing the bezel and I’ll give that a try.

You could use the back of a mouse pad. I just tried it on my S10- it came right off.

How does it look without the lens? I recall some folks saying the AR coating changed the tint, and trying a different lens should have a better tint.

I think one factor causing the green is that the S10 just isn’t driven very hard. I’ve noticed that XM-Ls and XM-L2s tend to look more greenish when they aren’t driven hard enough. For my original model S10 the biggest factor was the lens though. Replacing the lens solved the problem.

I tried all different led’s with my s10, they all come out more greenish in the s10. Its not the lens, i believe it is the reflector that is causing the greenish tint. To me, the nichia 219 is the only emitter that looks good in the s10

Interesting Bob.

By the way, I tried everything from the rubber jar openers to the mouse pad trick and nothing will budge this bezel. They must have used an inordinate amount of epoxy on mine because this bezel is not coming off. I guess I’ll just have to live with the green.

This S10 is the closest I’ve come to the almost perfect EDC light in all the lights I’ve tried over the years. Too bad this green tint has to spoil it.

Hm, that’s surprising.

In my original version S10, replacing the emitter and the lens got rid of 99% of the green. The tint now looks just the same as most other underdriven neutral XML or XML2 lights. The only way to get a better beam from the XML2 would be to drive the emitter at higher current. The reflector isn’t affecting the tint at all.

Perhaps in the L2 version, they changed the reflector.

That’s surprising. The bezel on the original S10 came off pretty easily and was not threadlocked. It sounds like they added threadlocker to the L2 version.

I read last week that Olight have released the S10 with a NW emitter - might be worth a punt? I, too, am a fan of the S10 and am considering picking up one of these new NW ones.

I think you are always going to play a lottery with tint shift in current controlled lights. The green on mine is only noticeable in moonlight and low, so I got pretty lucky.

They did change the reflector in the L2 version - it’s an improvement in terms of green over the XML lights.